XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

timing and other questions

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Old May 28, 2020 | 03:24 AM
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Default timing and other questions

Hello,
I have a 1977 XJ6L with the 4.2 and Stromberg carburetors. I recently got the car running after it had been sitting for about 25 years in a garage. It ran very poorly when I first started it, after redoing the entire fuel system (tanks to carbs). I rotated the engine so cylinder #6 was a TDC and checked the position of the rotor in relation to the tower for cylinder #6 - it appeared to be right where it was supposed to be, but when I checked the timing with a light it was WAY out. It was so far advanced that the marks were barely visible in relation to the pointer on the engine. I retarded the timing as far as I could, the vacuum advance now hits the power steering bracket but it runs. It still seems to be 8-10 degrees advanced when checked with a light. It also runs on briefly after I shut it off and doesn't run particularly smoothly on a light cruise (55mph on level road). There is no pinging on accel or going up hills. The previous owner converted it to Pertronix electronic ignition and I've heard that it is very difficult to get the timing right. The factory gap for electronic ignition on these I believe is .014-.016 - Mine is .035 and NOT adjustable. I have the opportunity to buy another engine but it comes with factory electronic ignition - I've been told mine was originally points and condenser. Is it possible (and advisable) to convert it to factory electronic ignition?

I should also note that the previous owner cut all 3 wires that were on the factory distributor assembly.

My next question is where is the coolant temp sensor for the temperature guage - it doesn't work in my car and I'd kinda like it to

Thanks for any help and guidance you can offer
 
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Old May 28, 2020 | 05:26 AM
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Maybe its me.

On these engines, #1 cylinder is at the rear ( for some bizzare reason),

At TDC compression stroke #1. Check this with the not so easy to see timing plate.

Cap off and confirm the position of the rotor in relation to the cap sockets. It may be as simple as moving the HT leads one socket around, and that will line things up so the vac unit is pointing at the oil filter.

These distributors are an offset tang drive, so unless someone has really played with the lower gear and oil pump drive, it would be as factory built. That messing is not a 5 minute task.

I am not familiar with the Pertronix system, so will say nothing.

That 014 - 016 was the original contact points gap, and we always aimed for 015.

All my XK engines Jags had the S3 Electronic distributors and black box, and never ever gave issues.

Starting from step 1, and working quietly to that last step on an unknown, fiddled with engine, is your only way.
 

Last edited by Grant Francis; May 28, 2020 at 10:15 PM. Reason: Messed up the scribe big time.
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Old May 28, 2020 | 10:30 AM
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Why not check the Pertronix website look for the install manual for the electronic ignition installed in your car. It may help you to find out if it's installed right did you check your wires and plugs when did your fuel sorting.
 
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Old May 28, 2020 | 11:41 AM
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water temp sender is under the carb manifold toward the engine front; on my 1977 xj6c. see bad pictures. green wire, blue spade.

 

Last edited by geneo; May 28, 2020 at 11:42 AM. Reason: more info
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Old May 28, 2020 | 12:12 PM
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Aye, #1 on these engines is at the firewall? I learned on others! No 1 at the front!!! But, no longer any ssue here? My car became alump not long after I got it!!

Now establishing TDC on the XK is as easy as it gets. Remocv et lug ans insert a wod rod. Turn the engine, by hand til the rod is at the apex.

Now, check the pointer on the dampener. it should be at TDC!!! No, it isn'T??? engine mis timeds? or the rubber in the dampener has detorated and the outter bnd slipped..

Apologies for the typos stff fingers today??

The pertronix insert in the distributor does exactly what the points and condenser did, but nmot electro mechanical, but electronic. Get a copy of the installation instructions. Easy, peasy.
Or a You tube or google search will get tinstructions. Two wires. one red, the other black.

Most folks like the conversion. My son's ancient Case tractor purrs as wellas his Plymouth flat head six powered fork lift!!!

Carl.
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 09:09 PM
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Hi,

Yep, I got that Jag numbered their cylinders backwards to almost every other automotive manufacturer.

I did take the cap off and when the pointer is lined up with TDC on the dampener the distributor rotor is pointed to the front cylinder (#6) as per the Jaguar service manual. I did try and move the wires back one position, but it was too far. I am not averse to updating to a later ignition - I do have access to a 1977 4.2, complete, but it has later electronic ignition and ballast resistor. To my knowledge no one has opened up the engine to move the distributor drive, it seems as though everything is lined up. I'm well versed in working on vehicles, I was just wondering if there was something known with these issues. Of course having been tampered with changes things a bit!!
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 09:16 PM
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awesome!! Thank you!!
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 03:29 PM
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These two pics show the orientation of the distributor on my '74 XJ6. If you are hitting interferences and still 8-10 degrees out, you may need to reorient the distributor. I think its possible to install the distributor 180 degrees out, then reconfigure the wires so that 6 is on 1, 2 is on 5, etc.... you may be able to get it to run, but you don't have enough adjustment to get it where it needs to be.

As far as not smooth at 55... my car always hated 55, was not a comfortable speed.

I haven't run points in years. I would encourage you to pursue a pertronix or luminition set up. One less thing to worry about or more importantly it allows you to rule out variables that maybe causing bad performance. For those that love adjusting points, my counter point is that on this particular car, it is a pain in the *** to get to that distributor.. you'll spend enough time on that side of the engine compartment as it is, why add distributor work?
 
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