I ordered a replacement fuel filter for my 1986 Xj6 series 3 carb version). What arrived did not fit into the filter cradle just before my carbs . Are there different filters between the carburettor version and the injector version ??

 

Yes.

The 3.4;tr Carby beast was mostly your market. I saw one, loooong time ago, Manual trans and a Pommie import.

I have an OLD parts book in the shed, and when it cools down, tonight I hope, 41c at the moment, I will go looking and post back.

May be ???? the same as the S2 carby cars, we will see.

 

Tom,

Cooled down a tad, 34c.

CAC2264 is what is listed for Late S2 and Carby S3 cars.

I suggest contacting Jack Weston at David Manners in the UK.

Many members speak highly of him and them.

All my S2 carby cars had a Ryco Z14 plastic inline filter just before the branch off pipe Inlet. Aussie brand, and maybe an Aussie fitment long before the cars came to me.

 

Thank you Grant, I have just spoken with Jack Weston who is looking for me .

I attach a photo of what is installed at the moment - it is a very loose fit in the carrier cage

Tom

 

Got some Aussie Scotkand, oops.

That is what se call a Ryco Z14 Fuel Filter.
ALL filter manufacturers make them, and use their own numbering system.

UNIVERSAL in the true sense of the word.

Z14 is 5/16 hose
Z15 is 1/4 hose.
There are also variations with the Inlet at 90deg.

Been around since the late 50;s.

 

Thank you Grant. I have now ordered the appropriate filters from Jack along with replacement 'o' rings for the tank drains so that I can drain the tanks of further sediment.

I was speaking with Jack about starting issues and we identified that I may have to look at replacing the oil pressure sensors but unfortunately these are no longer available - I may need to try to source some second hand ones.

Can I pick your brain ? On the right hand side of the engine, just below the carburettors, there are two loose wires - I attach a photo below . These have never been connected and I can't find out what they are for .Do you have such wires on any of your cars ? If you do, can you work out their purpose and tell me if they should be connected together ?? One is green and the other green with a brown tracer - I can't find reference to them on any wiring diagrams

Tom

 

OK, this is 35odd year memory in a 75 yo brain, stand by for errors.
I can no longer read wiring diagrams comfortably.

S2 had what we called a "Gulp Valve" in the balance hose of the 2 SU;s. It was POWERED from a Green/Brown (memory) wire from a connector UNDER the battery,then it ran across the subframe, and connected to ONE terminal of this valve. The other connector was EARTH.

BUT

That wire was ONLY live when the Ign was in the ACC or OFF position, Fair Dinkum, and the Earth was via a Reverse Oil Switch, just behind the oil filter housing.

Reverse meaning that NO oil pressure had NO earth path. Oil Pressure gave earth, so when that went live when you turned the key out of the Ign position, the valve opened, and dumped the Vac behind the carbies, and when the oil pressure went to zero, the earth path ceased, and the battery stopped draining, HA.

BRILLIANT, when it was new, not so a few years later, so we deleted any we came across.

NO issues at all, as long as the Hot idle was as specified, etc, so the thing did not run on.

ALSO

That same oil switch was the Earth for the fuel pump relay, DUH, only the Brits could dream this stuff up. That meant the pump did NOT run until there was oil pressure. NO problems, the carbies are still full of fuel from the last outing, so the beast starts, the oil pressure arrives, the switch makes earth, pump runs, and whoopee, we can move on.

I earthed that fuel pump relay wire to ANY close by screw, and removed all that junk. If there is an accident, the Inertia switch will still the pump.

Trouble starting, basics first.

Spark plugs.
Leads, all 7.
Choke set up, either the AED, or a manual conversion (preferred).
Dizzie cap and rotor.

I have NO idea what Ignition system the 3.4 got, maybe the same as the 4.2.
Ign coil is now a suspect, age related.

 

12 noon Wed 29.1.2025.

I just did an edit of the above thread, damn thing gave me nightmares, as I simply could not settle with what I wrote.

Now sorted, apologies to those confused by the Fossil from Downunder.

 

Thank you Grant, my friend and I will have another good look over the coming week . Maybe my problem is simply that the green wire (earth?) is floating free and needs to be grounded ?? Maybe the other green wire with brown tracer was originally the feed to the 'gulp valve' which, at some stage in the car's life has been removed as you described??

Tom

 

Tom,

If its running and is fine, dont connect those wires until it is established just what they are.

Hard starting Cold is mainly the Items I mentioned above. Once they are "ticked off", and the problem persists, the next step can be looked at.

IF, and thats a huge IF, the Ign coil is located as the S2 were, that would be my first item. They were mounted behind a steel plate, and basically sat up against the engine block, down in the area just aft of the dizzy.

Some had a Ballast resistor, so were a 6V coil, and the system had a "boost wire" to the Pos terminal to give the coil 12V while cranking. That could be missing, and the engine is trying to start on a Resisted system, NOT an easy task, especially when cold.