Troubleshooting suggestions (?) for new owner with pics
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
I'm assuming you have a you have a series 2, my S1 has a water temp sender in the underside of the intake manifold near the thermostat.
In the boot I have two small fuel filters, one from each tank before the change over solenoid. Then a bigger one before the fuel line exits the boot before the fuel line begins it's journey to the engine bay.
In the boot I have two small fuel filters, one from each tank before the change over solenoid. Then a bigger one before the fuel line exits the boot before the fuel line begins it's journey to the engine bay.
Last edited by o1xjr; May 9, 2017 at 08:43 AM.
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 28,386
Likes: 6,340
From: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
Thanks for the warm welcome on the main section. Long time member on many exotic forums and vintage mustang forums (been restoring a 66 for about 3 years). However, the mustang is a shell so not much troubleshooting and this will be the oldest car I've really completed troubleshooting on.
74 XJ6 that was kept up pretty well until 2015 really. Runs and drives but the following issues or symptoms are evident:
Horrible brakes. Have to pretty much put the pedal to the floor to stop the car- assuming master cyl. Should I do booster at the same time or just the master and see if the booster is necessary? Should I do brake lines too? Suggestions on where to get parts? Ballpark costs? Part numbers?
Hose coming out of the firewall into the engine bay (see picture) is cracked and has tape on it but is this a vent tube or what?
Air filter pipe towards the bumper was cracked and had been taped. Anyone know a part number for this? I think I saw flexible hose in some part diagrams but he pictures of the part doesn't really look like the pic here.
Fuel gauge does not read. I think odometer may not either. Unsure about water temp. But tachometer works. Button to switch between tanks is not lit. I'd like to check the fuses but I'm not sure where they are. Worst case, I'm guessing it could be the senders but would seem odd that both are bad.
Side emblems look very hazy and front emblem is broke. I think i found where to get the front but couldn't find the side cats. Any suggestions?
We plan to try and find an indy for an inspection and then dexpending what he finds, I'll do the fixes.
Is there any source for bumpers besides Harrington's?
Suggested costs for a full recarpet, leathers, door panels, headliner?
74 XJ6 that was kept up pretty well until 2015 really. Runs and drives but the following issues or symptoms are evident:
Horrible brakes. Have to pretty much put the pedal to the floor to stop the car- assuming master cyl. Should I do booster at the same time or just the master and see if the booster is necessary? Should I do brake lines too? Suggestions on where to get parts? Ballpark costs? Part numbers?
Hose coming out of the firewall into the engine bay (see picture) is cracked and has tape on it but is this a vent tube or what?
Air filter pipe towards the bumper was cracked and had been taped. Anyone know a part number for this? I think I saw flexible hose in some part diagrams but he pictures of the part doesn't really look like the pic here.
Fuel gauge does not read. I think odometer may not either. Unsure about water temp. But tachometer works. Button to switch between tanks is not lit. I'd like to check the fuses but I'm not sure where they are. Worst case, I'm guessing it could be the senders but would seem odd that both are bad.
Side emblems look very hazy and front emblem is broke. I think i found where to get the front but couldn't find the side cats. Any suggestions?
We plan to try and find an indy for an inspection and then dexpending what he finds, I'll do the fixes.
Is there any source for bumpers besides Harrington's?
Suggested costs for a full recarpet, leathers, door panels, headliner?
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 28,386
Likes: 6,340
From: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
Maybe update your Sig line now with your vehicle details.
Series 2 started 73', just 19 cars after my S1.
Series 2 started 73', just 19 cars after my S1.
Last edited by o1xjr; May 9, 2017 at 08:57 AM.
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From: Durham, UK
DONE - Chipster55 is now your active account with all previous threads/posts from the old Chip C account.
Graham
Graham
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From: Fairfax VA
AutoZone is close to losing any future business from me. I bought a master cylinder from them that was supposed to be direct replacement. But the ports on top are not the same size was the plastic adapters on the original master cylinder that run to the remote reservoir. They have yet to respoknd after weeks of waiting to tell me what adapters I will need or what the part number is for the slanted reservoir mounted on the cylinder in the product details. We can't drive the car until this is resolved.
I even contacted power brake exchange who makes the master cylinder and they haven't responded either.
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From: Walnut Creek, California
Chip:
I think I am a patient guy, but you trump me. Weeks later and no response from Autozone !
I don't knw the remote reservoir system on your car. But, neither does Autozone, and they are not willing to admit that.
Power brake Exchange probably did not make that master. More likely, just "rebuilt" a core.
So, if I understand the issue, it is that the lines from the plastic remote reservoir do not mate at the master. And that the master itself bolts up and the rod connects to the pedal properly.
If so, it is a plumbing issue. Find a parts house with a goodly supply f brass fittings.
Take the master there and the hoses. Find a fitting for the master with a barb of he correct size for the hoses. It can be done. I think.
But, far more likely to succeed than waiting for answers that are not coming.
Carl
I think I am a patient guy, but you trump me. Weeks later and no response from Autozone !
I don't knw the remote reservoir system on your car. But, neither does Autozone, and they are not willing to admit that.
Power brake Exchange probably did not make that master. More likely, just "rebuilt" a core.
So, if I understand the issue, it is that the lines from the plastic remote reservoir do not mate at the master. And that the master itself bolts up and the rod connects to the pedal properly.
If so, it is a plumbing issue. Find a parts house with a goodly supply f brass fittings.
Take the master there and the hoses. Find a fitting for the master with a barb of he correct size for the hoses. It can be done. I think.
But, far more likely to succeed than waiting for answers that are not coming.
Carl
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 60
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From: Fairfax VA
Chip:
I think I am a patient guy, but you trump me. Weeks later and no response from Autozone !
I don't knw the remote reservoir system on your car. But, neither does Autozone, and they are not willing to admit that.
Power brake Exchange probably did not make that master. More likely, just "rebuilt" a core.
So, if I understand the issue, it is that the lines from the plastic remote reservoir do not mate at the master. And that the master itself bolts up and the rod connects to the pedal properly.
If so, it is a plumbing issue. Find a parts house with a goodly supply f brass fittings.
Take the master there and the hoses. Find a fitting for the master with a barb of he correct size for the hoses. It can be done. I think.
But, far more likely to succeed than waiting for answers that are not coming.
Carl
I think I am a patient guy, but you trump me. Weeks later and no response from Autozone !
I don't knw the remote reservoir system on your car. But, neither does Autozone, and they are not willing to admit that.
Power brake Exchange probably did not make that master. More likely, just "rebuilt" a core.
So, if I understand the issue, it is that the lines from the plastic remote reservoir do not mate at the master. And that the master itself bolts up and the rod connects to the pedal properly.
If so, it is a plumbing issue. Find a parts house with a goodly supply f brass fittings.
Take the master there and the hoses. Find a fitting for the master with a barb of he correct size for the hoses. It can be done. I think.
But, far more likely to succeed than waiting for answers that are not coming.
Carl
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From: Florida
geez I would never go to autozone for such a part, SNG Barrat would be the place to find a new or rebuilt part like that.
I don't do business at autozone anymore, they have become ignoramus and the young kids working there do not have any knowledge of these cars. If it's not in the computer, they don't know what to do. I've had a lot better luck finding Jaguar part equivalents at CarQuest and even Napa. For example the Series 3 Bosch Fuel Filter that everybody sells for upwards of $32.00, CarQuest has it for $12.00. Things like that. But a Master Cylinder?
I don't do business at autozone anymore, they have become ignoramus and the young kids working there do not have any knowledge of these cars. If it's not in the computer, they don't know what to do. I've had a lot better luck finding Jaguar part equivalents at CarQuest and even Napa. For example the Series 3 Bosch Fuel Filter that everybody sells for upwards of $32.00, CarQuest has it for $12.00. Things like that. But a Master Cylinder?
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Fairfax VA
geez I would never go to autozone for such a part, SNG Barrat would be the place to find a new or rebuilt part like that.
I don't do business at autozone anymore, they have become ignoramus and the young kids working there do not have any knowledge of these cars. If it's not in the computer, they don't know what to do. I've had a lot better luck finding Jaguar part equivalents at CarQuest and even Napa. For example the Series 3 Bosch Fuel Filter that everybody sells for upwards of $32.00, CarQuest has it for $12.00. Things like that. But a Master Cylinder?
I don't do business at autozone anymore, they have become ignoramus and the young kids working there do not have any knowledge of these cars. If it's not in the computer, they don't know what to do. I've had a lot better luck finding Jaguar part equivalents at CarQuest and even Napa. For example the Series 3 Bosch Fuel Filter that everybody sells for upwards of $32.00, CarQuest has it for $12.00. Things like that. But a Master Cylinder?
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From: Fairfax VA
Gave the fuel gauge another look. Constantly pegged at empty. I did a jumper from the ground to sender and needle moves to full. I also tried pulling off sender and needle stays at empty. Based on that, that should mean both senders are bad right?
I did not check at the senders yet but may check tomorrow.
I did not check at the senders yet but may check tomorrow.
Last edited by Chipster55; May 13, 2017 at 08:27 PM.
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From: Pacific Northwest USA
Gave the fuel gauge another look. Constantly pegged at empty. I did a jumper from the ground to sender and needle moves to full. I also tried pulling off sender and needle stays at empty. Based on that, that should mean both senders are bad right?
I did not check at the senders yet but my check tomorrow.
I did not check at the senders yet but my check tomorrow.
Cheers
DD
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From: Fairfax VA
Ahhh, I think I did switch tanks during but I'll check again tomorrow. Thanks for reminding me
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From: Walnut Creek, California
Just went through a travail with a guage sensor in another critter. My venerable old, 94, Jeep Grand Cherokee. It has an in the tank module. The module is a housing for the fuel pump and rheostat with float as the fuel level sensor. Other USA cars use similar systems including GM.
It quit. Initial diagnosis, failed fuel pump. Necropsy found FP function good. Rheostat failed.
Result, guage trusting daughter kept driving til fuel ran out. Would I in like circumstance suspected something amiss when guage continued at 3/4?
Yes, I do. At the same time, My Jaguar's guage for one tank seemed to stay at 1/2. Risk, yes, but, the other was just short of 1/4, so I had a backup, I hoped!!
All was well, it began to drop. OK, I got it. Topped off.
Resolved in the case of each critter.
Carl
It quit. Initial diagnosis, failed fuel pump. Necropsy found FP function good. Rheostat failed.
Result, guage trusting daughter kept driving til fuel ran out. Would I in like circumstance suspected something amiss when guage continued at 3/4?
Yes, I do. At the same time, My Jaguar's guage for one tank seemed to stay at 1/2. Risk, yes, but, the other was just short of 1/4, so I had a backup, I hoped!!
All was well, it began to drop. OK, I got it. Topped off.
Resolved in the case of each critter.
Carl
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From: Fairfax VA
Yikes. I do want to get the car up and get into the wheel wells to check the senders before assuming for sure though. I also wonder how the switch plays into it. Does the sender value from each tank change at the switch or do both wires run to the gauge but the switch just determines the right signal? I.e., could a bad switch be causing my trouble?
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Yikes. I do want to get the car up and get into the wheel wells to check the senders before assuming for sure though. I also wonder how the switch plays into it. Does the sender value from each tank change at the switch or do both wires run to the gauge but the switch just determines the right signal? I.e., could a bad switch be causing my trouble?
My experience is with Series IIIs but I'm pretty sure the Series II is the same in this regard
On the Series III the signal wire from each sender goes to the tank selector switch. From the switch there is one wire going to the gauge. Two signal wires into the the switch; one wire coming out of the switch and going to the gauge. When you operate the switch you are not only selecting which tank to use but also selecting which sending unit signal...left or right.... goes to the gauge.
A faulty switch could pass the signal long for one tank but fail to do so for the other.
Cheers
DD
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My experience is with Series IIIs but I'm pretty sure the Series II is the same in this regard
On the Series III the signal wire from each sender goes to the tank selector switch. From the switch there is one wire going to the gauge. Two signal wires into the the switch; one wire coming out of the switch and going to the gauge. When you operate the switch you are not only selecting which tank to use but also selecting which sending unit signal...left or right.... goes to the gauge.
A faulty switch could pass the signal long for one tank but fail to do so for the other.
Cheers
DD
On the Series III the signal wire from each sender goes to the tank selector switch. From the switch there is one wire going to the gauge. Two signal wires into the the switch; one wire coming out of the switch and going to the gauge. When you operate the switch you are not only selecting which tank to use but also selecting which sending unit signal...left or right.... goes to the gauge.
A faulty switch could pass the signal long for one tank but fail to do so for the other.
Cheers
DD
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From: Fairfax VA
Thanks Carl. I saw that thread and looked but it's not the same on 74 at least. There is a circular access panel, removed with two screws, just behind the tires in the wheel wells. I have front mounted senders apparently. I'll report back if that's not the case. I'll definitely get in there by the end of the weekend.