I haven't posted on the '73 project in a while as the going has consisted of small victories between time on other projects/duties. The engine did run but began misfiring as it warmed up. A Pertronix set-up was in the plan anyway so that was installed along with a proper retuning of the carburetors and checking dynamic ignition timing. The car starts easily, appears to have plenty of power, and the BW gearbox shifts up through the gears as intended. About two thirds of the switches and gauges work now. As it turns out the fuel pump circuit was fine; I forgot that the original two-pump set up had independent circuits and I had the switch in the wrong position! A spare Lucas fuel pump drawing out of a plastic fuel jug will do for a tank right now.

I did have to source a temp gauge (curiously, the original had been removed) and I can't find the nuts used to screw it to the back plate and printed circuit. The nuts appear to be around a 6-32 and in brass but a steel 6-32 nut will not fit. the nuts used on the later gauges (SII and III) are larger. Any thoughts on sourcing the right ones will be appreciated.

Oil pressure is good (~50 psi) and I was initially getting about a 30-40 degree temp drop across the original radiator. It's now dropped to around 10 degrees. I did a quick and dirty DIY backflush and this probably wasn't sufficient. The engine is running at 185-190 F at hot idle.

No exhaust on it yet so it is loud.

 

Gettin' there!!!

Try your local Ace Hardware. the one near here has an abundant collection of fasteners.

Do you have a tap that small ? retap what is close to a fit.

Those temperature numbers look fine. but, whether they can be sustained under more trying conditions is an issue. I would consider a proactive boil by a radiator shop.

Thes cars do not do well in an over heat... I know!!!!!!!

 

Ken, good chance gauge studs are metric, #6-32 SAE should be about 3.5mm, give that a try. Also make sure you are matching thread pitch, nut/stud. Could be fine or course.

Dave

 

Also, those threads could be BA, which were very common on UK cars of this era and earler. So if the metric does not do it, try that. https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/B....-2BA-Hex.html

 

Thanks for the link, Greg. They can probably set me up.