Hi GUYS car ive bought recently series 2 1975 has the washer pump removed, bought a new one and connected the green/blu wire and the green wire to it that hang around down there . These were disconnected taped up and tucked away, so I presume they are the right wires. Am I on the right track? Have I got the right wires? Wipers are working ok.
Tried getting the new pump to work , brand new, neg to neg pos to pos, motor doesnt run

 

Hi Mickvic
Did you check the wiring for voltage first? Easy enough with a multi meter.
I have a RHD ‘75 Series 2 and had exactly the same issue. I don’t remember the wiring colour as it runs down the left inner fender with the washer line and then up along side the battery box. Wires discoloured almost to black. The Washer Motor was dead, but the wiring was also cracked and fried due to 45 plus years proximity to exhaust manifold heat. So there was no voltage down the wire anyway.
I traced the wiring back up to the braided sheath near the battery at the firewall. Cut the old wire out. Spliced in new wires and ran them down the original path along the inner fender.
Got a new washer motor from SNG Barratt. Tested wires for voltage. Then connected it all back up. Job done. It has worked without fault for the last 18 months. 🤞

 

The green wire has power to it from the test light, ignition on. Nothing from the green/blue light. Tried the pump with both connected, then reversed pos and neg, no action from the pump switch on the wiper stalk. Direct twelve volt from battery does not activate the pump.The wiring goes up and dips into behind the gaurd about twelve inches up.

 

Have you got some images you can share? Also, have you tested the washer motor in isolation to ensure that it works?
Below image is of a RHD Daimler S2. Wires run down from the washer motor, along under the expansion tank, clipped along the inner wing, then up to the wiring loom along side the battery box.

 

 

The green wire supplies 12V to the pump. You have confirmed that is present

The green/black (not blue) wire grounds the other side of the pump via the switch

So if you disconnect the green/black wire and add a temporary wire to vehicle ground in its place, then the washer pump should operate with the ignition on.

Assuming it does, you then need to trace a fault from the green/black wire to the switch and from there to earth.

A common problem area is the multi-pin plug at the bulkhead where wires transfer from engine bay into the cabin. These often become high resistance and can be cured by cleaning up.