I've had an intermittent problem with my car's electrical system completely going out. Nothing would work: the car wouldn't turn over, the lights wouldn't come on, nothing would happen. It was like the whole system was grounding out or something.

What I've done since I've had the car was put in an aftermarket (Sony) stereo. The wired it up weird, so I rewired it (they had the thing wired so that when the car was off, the whole radio was off, and when I started the car, the radio would come on like it hadn't had power). They had the hot AND the ignition wires to the radio on the hot wire, so that when I turned the car on, I had to reprogram my stations again. Also, I replaced all the window switches. Many of you may remember the problem I had doing that. For some reason now, the windows only work when the passenger-side window switch has been tapped on. I also put the old ignition switch back into the car, since the one that was in it broke (the key would turn 360 degrees but not start the car, etc).

So, today, I'm driving down the road, minding my own business, when all of the sudden the car shuts off. First time it had done this. So, I tap here and fiddle there, like I always do when it doesn't start. After an hour of nothing happening, I gave up. Now, here's the weird thing. The clock in the car would work, until I turned the ignition to the ON position. Then nothing. The clock would stop working.

Now, if I cross the starter solenoid to the hot wire on the starter, the car turns over, but doesn't start (presumably because the car is constantly in OFF mode).

My questions are:

Where does the problem lie?
Is the radio wiring grounding the system out?
Are the window switches grounding the system out?
Is there a main relay that I don't know about?

The car is sitting in a grocery store parking lot a few miles from my house (YES, walking home 3 miles in the winter DOES suck). So, I'll take my tools with me back to the car tomorrow, undo all the window switches AND the radio wiring in the hopes that one of those is the problem. If not, then I'm really screwed. I'm not sure if there is a main relay, or how much one would cost, or if I can even GET one from the local auto parts store.

Any help prior to me walking the 3 miles back to my car would be greatly appreciated!!! A buddy of mine said I could hard wire the coil to the positive terminal on the battery and hard start the car (cross the starter solenoid to the hot wire on the starter), and that would enable me to get the car home, but I wouldn't have blinkers, lights, brake lights, etc.

 

Motor that's not a nice thing to happen to you. You sure that the "old ignition switch" is good and not internally cremated? I can't remember why you changed it in the first place.

Have you checked the Inertia switch, probably found behind the panel next to your left foot? Try switching it off and on. IIRC it also has a separate fuse next to it.

I am not well versed with your age of car.

Cheers

 

I changed it because the other broke...lol. Internally, there are two plastic things that go into the switch itself, and those two "tongues" broke, and renderred the switch useless.

I don't know what an inertia switch is, but I'll look for it. After reading and investigating, I'm thinking it's either the main relay (under the dash, behind the ignition switch) or something called the "starter solenoid/ballast coil relay." I've been trying to figure out what the latter does, but can't, for the life of me, find anything on WHAT it does...mainly because I can't figure out what a "ballast coil" is much more than an amplifier for the ignition coil...so I'm guessing that's not it.

A friend of mine told me how to hardwire the ignition coil to the battery and get it started up juct so I can get it home, which I'll do today. Other than that, looks like I'll have to rent a car for the next few days, and start changing relays in the hopes of finding or narrowing the problem. I'll also try that inertia switch.

 

I'm still inclined towards the ignition switch ( knowing it to have a problem). If you have a totally dead car

The Inertia switch is a safety cut out (cuts off fuel, electrics etc) in the event of a heavy accident, but it can trip of its own accord.

How will hot wiring the coil help you, if you have no electrics at all. Unless you have a mechanical fuel pump with your conversion you won't have any fuel to the engine, and also your alternator is probably not going to like spinning up with the electrics off.
At least disconnect it if you are going down this road.

If you can't find a Jag replacement, why not fit one from another vehicle in a space in the dash. Just make sure that your existing unit can function to turn the steering lock off, or remove the steering lock all together. I've done this with spitfires and landrovers in the past.

Cheers,

 

Hardwiring the coil will help me at least get the thing home...lol. I do have a mechanical fuel pump (I know this because I had to change it out when I first got the car).

I'm actually rebuilding my old ignition switch using parts from the broken ignition (which I saved for some unknown reason...lol). The steering lock is built in to the ignition switch, which, when removed, leaves the steering wheel free to move about as it pleases.

I'll check the inertia switch (which I thought only helped the original electric fuel pump), as well as a few other things once I get her home.

Maybe naming her "Christine" wasn't the best idea in the world, huh?

 

Did you read the whole book? "Christine" was self repairing, if just a little tetchy in terms of emmotional development. LOL

I know the steering lock is part of the switch, but believe me the "*******" where I used to live wouldn't have been remotely bothered by such an inconvenience, when they are making off with your pride and joy.

Hope you get her home OK.

 

The tow truck just arrived with her, so I'll be playing with her guts before too long...even though the temp is about 25 F. ugh