XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

XJ6 4.2 S3 "83 not starting but runs on brake cleaner

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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 07:05 AM
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Default XJ6 4.2 S3 "83 not starting but runs on brake cleaner

Dear All,

I am living in Holland and owned my silver coloured Jag with biscuit interior since 2008 with original 116k km on the dial. This one was imported from Switserland and was rust treated with Dinitrol so no rust and reasonably well maintained by the previous 2 owners.

Unfortunately, the left front spring is broken and must be replaced. Since a few years she is kept in dry storage because of kids, work new homes etc.
Occassionally I fired her up and just drive the road up and down to keep things going. Last time was about 3 years ago.

My plan is to enjoy the smooth glides again over the Dutch roads. Last week I wanted to have some maintenance done on her so I wanted to start het but she wouldn't....
Symtoms: cranks OK but will not run. No gasoline smell after several starting attempts at the exhaust.

What did I do so far (each time with a fully charged Bosch S4 Silver battery):

0. Added some gas in each tank
1. Checked all fuses => OK (0 Ohms)
2. Cheched the relays => OK
2a the diodes in side the "diode relay" are OK, I measured each + resistor with my Fluke
3. Checked inertia switch => OK (0 Ohms)
2. Checked the fuel pump. Connected direct 12V with a lipo and it runs OK.
3. Also there is distinkt presure on the fuel rail when I remove one of the rubber fuel lines.
4. With a few gentle squirts of brake cleaner into the air mass meter inlet she will run for a couple of seconds so ignition is OK i guess. Sparks are also visible if I disconnect the main ignition lead and let it rest to mass and start.
5. Disconnected the computer in the trunk and reinserted again (perhaps a connection went bad)

I can imagine an injector can go bad but not all 6 at the same time?

I have the car's schematics from the owners manual (in German), the Jag Workshop Manual + Haynes (both in English).

If you have any suggestions to have the starting issue fixed please let me know. Your help is much appreciated!
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Martijn
Dear All,

I am living in Holland and owned my silver coloured Jag with biscuit interior since 2008 with original 116k km on the dial. This one was imported from Switserland and was rust treated with Dinitrol so no rust and reasonably well maintained by the previous 2 owners.

Unfortunately, the left front spring is broken and must be replaced. Since a few years she is kept in dry storage because of kids, work new homes etc.
Occassionally I fired her up and just drive the road up and down to keep things going. Last time was about 3 years ago.

My plan is to enjoy the smooth glides again over the Dutch roads. Last week I wanted to have some maintenance done on her so I wanted to start het but she wouldn't....
Symtoms: cranks OK but will not run. No gasoline smell after several starting attempts at the exhaust.

What did I do so far (each time with a fully charged Bosch S4 Silver battery):

0. Added some gas in each tank
1. Checked all fuses => OK (0 Ohms)
2. Cheched the relays => OK
2a the diodes in side the "diode relay" are OK, I measured each + resistor with my Fluke
3. Checked inertia switch => OK (0 Ohms)
2. Checked the fuel pump. Connected direct 12V with a lipo and it runs OK.
3. Also there is distinkt presure on the fuel rail when I remove one of the rubber fuel lines.
4. With a few gentle squirts of brake cleaner into the air mass meter inlet she will run for a couple of seconds so ignition is OK i guess. Sparks are also visible if I disconnect the main ignition lead and let it rest to mass and start.
5. Disconnected the computer in the trunk and reinserted again (perhaps a connection went bad)

I can imagine an injector can go bad but not all 6 at the same time?

I have the car's schematics from the owners manual (in German), the Jag Workshop Manual + Haynes (both in English).

If you have any suggestions to have the starting issue fixed please let me know. Your help is much appreciated!
Use a noid light hooked up to the injector electrical connection to see if your getting an Impulse to fire the injectors. You can buy a noid light at many auto parts stores you could also make one from a 5 volt LED that are commonly found as the power or hard drive light in Old Computers. Whether you're not getting an injector impulse will lead you to your next steps. If you are then it's most likely fuel supply related. If you aren't getting an injector pulse and it's ECM related and possibly related to the ECM signal that comes from the distributor.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 08:21 AM
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Agreed on the noid light suggestion.

If no blinking from the noid light there are some easy checks:

- There is a white/black wire from the coil "-" post running aft along the water rail. Make sure it is attached and in good condition. This is the 'trigger' wire from the fuel injection

- At the end of the water rail there is a bundle of black wires under a bolt head. These are the grounds for the entire fuel injection system. Check/clean/tighten the connection

- On the RH engine bay wall, low and well forward, approximately across from the power steering pump, is the injector resistor pack. This unit seldom fails but the connector plug can come loose and/or the pins can get very dirty. Check/clean/tighten.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 08:59 AM
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Hi,

I just prepped the light. Two LED's with polaritie oposite + resistor so any way I will connect it a led will lit up.
I am off cheing your suggestions right now. Thanks!

 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 10:08 AM
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I checked the injector pulses with the proble above and they are OK. After a few starts she bursted into life but idle is very rough. After a minute of the pedle she held on to about 1000rpm but a bit "sawing".
Can the rough idling be caused by old petrol?

What is this part used for?

Thank you again!
Distributor contacts are clean.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 10:18 AM
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Absolutely. Old gas has caused issues for mew. Last winter, I filed to run the mower dry. In spring, it would not fire up. dumped the gas. Put in fresh gas, fired right up!!!


some gas has better shelf life" than others. some engines more tolerant of "lousy" gas than others Even weather can play on to it.


Oh,when you replace the busted spring replace both. I'd lean to a good used pair rather than new ones. Rates issues.


Good hunting!!!


Carl
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 10:28 AM
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Yes will have both spings replaced!

I placed a video on YT so you guys can see an dhear the rough idling:

Will replace or add more fresh fuel later and see what happens.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Martijn
What is this part used for?

Fuel pressure regulator


Cheers
DD
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 06:15 PM
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substitute the fuel pump, it is easy to replace and it could be the problem. They don't last more than 20 years.
 
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Old May 6, 2018 | 05:38 PM
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Default Similar issue

Originally Posted by Martijn
Dear All,

I am living in Holland and owned my silver coloured Jag with biscuit interior since 2008 with original 116k km on the dial. This one was imported from Switserland and was rust treated with Dinitrol so no rust and reasonably well maintained by the previous 2 owners.

Unfortunately, the left front spring is broken and must be replaced. Since a few years she is kept in dry storage because of kids, work new homes etc.
Occassionally I fired her up and just drive the road up and down to keep things going. Last time was about 3 years ago.

My plan is to enjoy the smooth glides again over the Dutch roads. Last week I wanted to have some maintenance done on her so I wanted to start het but she wouldn't....
Symtoms: cranks OK but will not run. No gasoline smell after several starting attempts at the exhaust.

What did I do so far (each time with a fully charged Bosch S4 Silver battery):

0. Added some gas in each tank
1. Checked all fuses => OK (0 Ohms)
2. Cheched the relays => OK
2a the diodes in side the "diode relay" are OK, I measured each + resistor with my Fluke
3. Checked inertia switch => OK (0 Ohms)
2. Checked the fuel pump. Connected direct 12V with a lipo and it runs OK.
3. Also there is distinkt presure on the fuel rail when I remove one of the rubber fuel lines.
4. With a few gentle squirts of brake cleaner into the air mass meter inlet she will run for a couple of seconds so ignition is OK i guess. Sparks are also visible if I disconnect the main ignition lead and let it rest to mass and start.
5. Disconnected the computer in the trunk and reinserted again (perhaps a connection went bad)

I can imagine an injector can go bad but not all 6 at the same time?

I have the car's schematics from the owners manual (in German), the Jag Workshop Manual + Haynes (both in English).

If you have any suggestions to have the starting issue fixed please let me know. Your help is much appreciated!

i have ave a similar issue on a 1987 xj6. The car is a daily driver. It ran for weeks without issue. My daughter had to slam on the brakes, and the engine died. It now will turn over and almost start, but then dies. Very similar to this situation. I have done steps 0-4 from above, but have also already changed the fuel pump to no avail. I think next is the injector test listed in this thread. Also, where is the injector ECU located?
thanks
 
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