XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

XJ6 lll burned wire when cranking

 
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Old 03-04-2019, 08:20 PM
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Default XJ6 lll burned wire when cranking

Okay, my phone is really irritating me. This is my third attempt to post this. I recently got this 85 XJ6 lll with a few problem. The main one right now is this ground wire burning when cranking the engine. I saw sparks and smoke and found two black wires to this multi solenoid that seems to have something to do with starting it. I repaired the two wires and it cranked much better. But the wires actually caught on fire. I'm wondering if it looks like I just need to replace the wires or troubleshoot other wiring issues? Someone wired in a bypass solenoid to switch off all power when you leave the car parked somewhere.
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 08:40 PM
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You need to check the ground strap from the block to the chassis. Then check the strap back to the battery.
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 10:27 PM
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Thank you. I will check on that tomorrow.
 
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Old 03-05-2019, 02:09 AM
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Agreed.

Those SMALL earth wires are for minor systems/items, and when the main earth strap, engine to chassis is not earthing, the HUGE amps to operate the starter motor, find an earth path anywhere they can.

I have had some wit melted gear select cables, accelerator cables, etc etc.

You can NEVER have too many BIG earth cables, EVER.

Any earth wire that has been cooked like that will need replacing, NOT repairing.
 
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Old 05-01-2019, 04:28 PM
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Default Fixed

I replaced the burned wire. It ended up that it just went to ground. I found a wire already perfect for the job. It had the connector for the solenoid and the other end had a round connector to just connect it on the bolt to the frame. The braided wire is there, but I added a big battery wire that worked out great.
Before and after videos here too.

Second video is after cleaning the old fuel out. The left fuel tank seems to have venting issues. I could not pure fuel in. The right tank worked fine. So I bypassed the left tank in the trunk. I'm guessing I will need to fix that for California smog? I added two quarts of transmission fluid and it moves now. I backed it up in the driveway once the car behind it was gone. Starting to look promising.


 
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Old 05-01-2019, 04:38 PM
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Default Smog pump now

After getting it running, I noticed the smog pump is seized up. Is it possible to fix that or will I need to replace it?
I also found out the antenna system had water leak into it. It is a total loss. lol
But it runs. 👍👍

 
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:00 PM
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Getting there, well done.

Its all those small items that have been left for years that bite.
 
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:43 PM
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Your ground wire from the battery to the engine is a great idea. There is supposed to be a grounding strap to the engine under the car. Maybe it is redundant but you are now 100% positive that the engine is properly grounded.
 
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Old 05-01-2019, 10:36 PM
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Default Ground strap is there, but

Yeah, the ground strap is there, but I would have to Jack the front end up and put Jack stands under there again. I didn't feel like doing that. I found that cable while looking for the smaller wire for that solenoid. I didn't feel like removing the ground strap that is on it already, and scrape the connections really good to make sure it has a good connection. This cable looked like a better idea. lol
 
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:56 AM
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there is a plastic check valve under the front passenger side fender, you need to raise the car to see it.

it is there to vent the fuel vapors from the tanks. One hose is larger on one aide of the valve. The other side and hose is smaller.

Remove the valve and see if the issue goes away. This assumes you get a "sswwwooosssshhh" when you open the gas filler cap, in which case the check valve is not opening. If removing the valve resolves the issue, just push a drill bit through the valve to break the "membrane". There will be no side effects and the tanks will not be subjected to excessive vapor pressure.
 
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:54 AM
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Thank you. I will check that out later. The funny thing is, the switch on the dash will not switch to the left tank anyways. It only stays on the right side tank. That's another issue to fix. And the alternator is not charging. But our friend that wanted the car changed his mind and said junk it. I figured if I fix it, I could at least make a little off the deal. Have to work out paperwork first. Or sell for parts? I tapped the smog pump with a rubber mallet and it moved. I put the belt on and it seems to work now. The original reason the car hasn't run since 2012 is because the cooling fan got cought in the radiator strap. It does run smoothly now that the bad fuel is cleared out. It has Ferrari wheels on it. The biggest problem is a bunch of rust at window corners and edges and needs paint. The friend that was supposed to get it is a body man. But life issues causing him to pass on it now.
 
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:44 PM
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Wow, that car is a handful. or on the other hand, a challenge to over come.

1. Smog pumps are rather generic. Take the seized one to the parts store. One with good counter men. Keep your drive pulley!!! Not expensive. I tried to fix one decadesa go. not worth the fight. And, I delight in fixing...

2. Those wires on the battery - post are a mess. Do away with them. Ugh. And apologies...

3. Fixing that tank selection issue is a task. Lots involved. I'm lucky. Mine works as made!!

4. A closed tank vent system is a CA requirement. The inspection is visual and tactile. Not as ion other cars, function as well. In the latter cars, they do a leak down.

Mine merely asked me to open the tank lids. The seals are present he pushed on each to note they worked. The rest is that the cannister just behind the outboard right lamp is present and connected by tubes. Back to the tanks and into the engine bay to the purge valve on the engine . . The cannister is a GM product.

Good luck.

I'm off to play with my outside toys. Jaguar as well...

Carl.
 
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