It was planned anyway, but now we are expecting 400mm of rain tomorrow. That makes it perfect day to jack up the car,crank up the tunes, crack a coldie and hang out under a car on a padded creeper taking photos.
I have all items required in stock,so I don't even need to leave the house to buy stuff unless I find an issue I am not aware of.
Funny thing is her indoors doesn't think that sounds like a perfect day!

I will take photo's and document the process further on in the thread, no doubt someone will search how to change oil sooner or later.

What you will need before you start.
Jack/ramps/axle stands. I will post a picture of these tomorrow.

Supply of workshop rags or old T shirts.

The correct oil for the engine.(and enough to do the job)


The correct oil filter for the engine.


Crush washer for the sump plug(I buy these in 10 packs from a motorcycle shop..60c each)


Filter removing tool (many options available at your local Auto store)


8 litre drain pan(in my case 2 x 5 litre as that is what I have)


Correct size socket or ring spanner for the sump plug.


Workshop manual if you have one available.


If you see anything I have overlooked,please jump in and correct me.

 

You havnt missed anything Clarke but I do have a question. Mine has the oil filter which fits in a metal canister type cover, I fit the new filter in situ as I couldn't get the heavy cover out (very messy) is their a trick or can it be changed to the screw in type in your pic.

 

Hi Daf, yes mine has an adapter kit fitted so it takes Series II/III or XJS/XJ12 filter. Not sure where you could get the kit but Grant Francis will probably know.
Jagdaim may sell them.

Then your car will take the following filters.

Ryco Z133, $38. Repco or Supercheap Auto (pre order) or $38(free post) on ebay

Jagdaim EBC9658/L $15 + $15.90 Postage

Fram PH2995A $20 + $8.25 postage . Preston Paige Classics(ebay)

Mann W930/13 $32.10 (free post) Micksgarage,Australia. ebay

Coopers Fiamm FT5925 / old Z509A/ Newest part no WZ133 $36.95 (free post)
motoparts_au (ebay)

Baldwin BT634 $19.50 + $7.95 postage. Jag prestige spares (ebay)

Brintech $58.94 + $8.60 postage ,brintech_customs (ebay)

HiFi HO-7801 (is the Jagdaim EBC9658)

 

Thanks mate il follow that up....anything to make life easier.

 

According to the prophecy yours is a Series II, so it must have the same filter as the Series I.
The adapter kit must be for a Series III /XJS /XJ12 filter



Update: Her indoors just informed me our new printer scans and makes PDF's(no need for the old scanner now then?). But I could not work out how to invert the scans. So here is a PDF,I hope you can read upside down.

S1 Oil Filter.pdf

 

All that every time you change the oil filter.......explains why mine needed changing. So my series 2 has a series one filter, does that mean that some later series 2 changed or do all series 2 have the same?

 

Mine is a bit of a crossover S1.
Not sure about that oil filter stuff, but my series 1 is 19 body numbers from the first Series II. Some things it has are series II part numbers but are original,maybe they carried the cartrigde oil filter into some of the SII's as yours is a fairly early one. The early SII's had the same carby set up as well.

 

Have your rags handy(not necesary to have them folded),that's just me.


2500 kg jack, a pair of 3000kg axle stands and a pair of ramps.


drive front wheels onto the ramps,and apply hand brake.


Because my jack is too high to fit under the diff once the front of the car is on ramps,I have to jack each side up and place wood blocks under the rear wheels.


Then jack the centre of the car to a level height, I have a hardwood block cut to size to fit the full length of the of the tie plate. Place the axle stands under the wishbones then lower the car into the stands.


Before venturing under the car I grab hold of the rear bumper and give the car a couple of good shoves sideways just to make sure the stands are doing their job.

 

Daff,
the old canister type oil filter stayed around into the series 2 till very late into the S2, i converted mine to S3 type for under $100 with filter, bought the items form my supplier in Sydney..........there's a couple of tricks you need to do to make it fit correctly....looks like you'll be ringing me again...........tom

 

Run the engine up to normal operating temperature

Place your catch pans under the engine ,


Locate the sump plug at the right rear of the sump, and loosen off with a 7/8 socket or ring spanner.


Remove sump plug with your fingers , and drain the engine oil into the pan.
Caution: the plug and oil will be hot.


Place some rags under the oil filter before you loosen it to catch any spills when removing the filter. Have a dish ready to put the filter into when you remove it.


Remove the air filter to allow room to get both hands down below carby's. Use the filter removing tool to loosen the filter.(turnig anti clockwise)


Unscrew the filter with your hands and tilt it downwards to stop the oil running out, then lift it out between the carby's and place in the dish.
Caution: the filter and oil will be hot.


If your car is fuel injected you may have to remove the filter from the under side.

 

Cheers Clarke.

Lots of similarities with the XJS underneath. I'm pretty sure we share the same diff and a few other things underneath the car.

So do you have to run the engine a bit before you turn off and let out the oil via the sump, or can you do it from cold?

 

Clean excess oil away from around filter housing with a clean rag.


Dip your finger into the clean oil(new) and smear it around the rubber gasket on the new oil filter.


Fit new filter, I do it as tight as I can by hand then just give a light nip up using the filter removing tool. Being carefull not to push too hard risking distorting the filter casing.
Then replace air filter.


Replace the sump plug with the new crush washer fitted. Do not over tighten as the sump is aluminium and you may strip the thread. Clean any excess oil from around the underside of the filter housing.
Then remove the pan with spent oil from under the car and clean up any spills on the garage floor.


Place the old filter in the box from the new filter and drain the pan into some old oil bottles.

 

Thanks Paul, I forgot to mention that part. Just edited it into post #10.

Lots of stuff common to your car and mine in the drive line/suspension.


About now seems like a good time for a cup of coffee and a biscuit and a quick look through the forums before topping up the oil.

 

Cheers Clarke

Question:

Do you pre-fill the oil filter? I hear some guys recommend it however some engine bays may prove difficult due to the filters mounted upside down etc.

I think the theory behind it was to have oil in there ready to go on startup. Is this necessary or just overkill?

 

Top up engine with the new oil, the amount you need will be listed in the specs section of your workshop manual.
The 4.2 engine takes 14.5 imperial pints(8.25 litres/17.5 US pints)

I start by adding 75% of the recommended volume (about 6 litres) then replace the filler cap and run the engine for a few minutes then turn it off and let the oil drain back to the sump and check the level on the dipstick.


Top up as required until the level is right on the dipstick, I add 1 pint at a time(because that is how big my old school oil pourer is). Checking the level each time.


Replace the filler cap again and run the engine for a few more minutes then turn it off and let the oil drain back to the sump for a couple of minutes. Then check the level one last time for peace of mind. Close the bonnet.

 

Never heard that before, not sure if will make any difference. The oil will be pumped through the engine in a few seconds anyway.

Weather is still **** here.

 

The Wizard mentioned it starting in post 4:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...quency-139143/


There was somewhat a debate.

Cyclones here in northen WA area

 

Now it is time to clean up. Degrease the oil spill on the garage floor.


Clean up your oil drain pan.


Dispose of oily rags.


pack up the waste oil and spent filter and return to your Auto parts store for disposal. I assume that would be standard practice most places these days since it is done here in sleepy Brisbane.


And it's just gone beer o'clock.



The complete process should take no more than an hour to complete.
Now...it is the Jeep oil change for the afternoon.

 

I have never pre-filled an oil filter in 32 years of doing my own oil changes and my cars/bikes have suffered no ill effects from my method.
It is a debate I will stay out of.

I was told when I was an apprentice:

It can be applied to most things in life.

 

I didnt do this for decades but do now (oil filter filling I mean). The upside down filter isnt an issue, just fill it up initially wait a minute or two and the filter has soaked it all up. You can then turn it over and screw it on with no mess. I have one on my Hilux. I have no clue if it makes any significant difference , just makes me feel warm and fuzzy :-)

Been looking at the Brisbane weather radar. I think Clarke will be taking to the boats any time now. Seems not so long ago SEQ was in drought.