Had 150mm in the last 3 hours(on top of the continuous downpour of the last 24 hours), I live on a hilltop and my floor downstairs is flooded from run-off. Supposed to get that much again between now and midnight. And this is our dry season!

 

I reckon thats some wisdom right there. So true.

Stay dry Clarke. Lucky you done the service and dont need to duck out for any more parts. Hope the beer fridge is stocked!

 

Clarke:


I say old chap could you possibly send some of that down pour up to us ?


We are in the midst of a serious drought. Not only is it tough, but a wonderful opportunity for the politicians to make noises and seek more money!!!


Carl

 

Hello there Clarke,
Many thanks for your useful instructions on how to renew the engine oil. I have never performed that task on my 1986 Series 3 as I am too old to creep under my car. I have been relying on my mechanic to do the job but I have just discovered I can trust him no longer. I have a couple of questions and I am sure you can help:
(1) Do you have to remove the engine oil filler cap before draining the oil?
(2) Why do you have to remove the oil filter from the top? Is there no access to reach it from underneath?
Thank you for the tip about replacing the sump plug. The PO damaged the thread on my car by over- tightening the plug and then used some sort of cement (would you believe) to stop the oil leak. I had to have it re-tapped and a larger plug fitted.
On a different subject: Has anyone replaced the original starter motor with a so-called Hi-torque one. There are a couple them advertised for sale on Ebay. Any good? Any advice? Thank you..............Gerard.

 

Hi Gerard, sorry can't help with starter question. I replaced mine with a used original then had the old one rebuilt for a spare.

1.No, you do not have to remove the filler cap before draining the oil. It may speed up the draining slightly I guess, but they drain fairly quick anyway.

2.You do not have to remove the filter from the top, I just found it easier on a carburated car as I could reach it easily. From the bottom there is not a lot of room to work around the steering rack.
It may be different on a late S2 or S3 as they come with the spin on type filter that may have more room and the fuel injection may get in the way from the top. Every model is different, and you will find the easiest way to reach the filter when you attack the job.
Mine has an adapter to take the S3 filter which takes up room between the engine and the steering rack.

 

Gerard I feel for you, it's one thing paying too much and getting the job done but to pay and not having it done properly or at all is the pits. Three years ago I was having all work done on my cars by specialists (so called) I had never taken a spanner to either one. I decided to change the oil in the Peugeot had it since new with 60 thou klm on it, when I changed the oil filter I found it was just black goo, oil filter had decomposed into muck. I could tell it had never been changed since new as the 307s filter is in a canister the same as the series 1/2 jags with a bolt head to undu . The canister was shining black not a scratch or mark on it brand new. Since that day I have joined forums and done all the work so far on Peugeot and rangey.......Now on the journey here with my jag.
Sorry to be long winded but wanted to say have a go....good on you and best of luck.

 

all these people here & other posts having trouble with their mechanics on the jags...makes me feel like i should open my back gate and offer to do the work, can't beat a set of full drive on ramps and all the workshop gear.........

 

I use a System 1 oil filter. You just wash the metal filter with solvent.