Don't Assume anything, as Grant says, these are simple cars.
Recently had an intermittent shut down on warm engine after two blocks, happened twice, so had AAA tow it to XK Motorsport only 4 miles away... Left it with them for several days. They drove it 38 miles and could not get it to even cough. Took it home and after several days got a shut down followed by a no re-start in my driveway!! I was ecstatic. Out came the no start no run checklist. Nothing obvious, but have had PO fuel pump in for 12 years and decided to install the Bosch Spare, I have had it for years. Change the filter just to see if anything came out (Clean). Checked pump with circuit in Drive with key in start position and by pushing flap on AFM... could hear pump running so all good. Next worked on Ignition with Ohm meter and parts substitution... out come, no help. Before replacing fuel regulator , I thought I would check fuel pressure. No pressure to Fuel Rail with pump running. I assumed a running pump was putting out pressure.

Removed fuel pump was Lucas with a small Made in Germany Part number 0 580 464 016, replacement fuel pump Bosch 0 580 464 070 which was is still listed for XJ6 S3 on E-bay.
Lucas pump has large spade (+) and small spade (-) terminals and the Bosch pump large stud and smaller stud.
After several hours of double checking everything, I discovered the large stud was (-) and the small stud (+) on the new Bosch pump. Swapped the leads and engine fired right up.
I certainly became re-familiar with the no start checklists again, but failed the don't assume test.
Hope this helps someone in the future!!!
Rgds
David

 

This "hack" made quick work of confirming the working of Ignition Amplifier in a no spark situation.

XJ6 S3 Ignition Amplifier Bypass for T/S for Crank but, No Start/Run condition (most likely when engine bay is very warm)

· Remove two wires from Ignition Coil to Ignition Amplifier

· Remove two wire Connector from distributor to Ignition Amplifier

· Connect distributor wires Connector to wired Spare GM Ignition Module

· Connect Green wire to Positive terminal of Ignition Coil (Male terminal on wire)

· Connect White wire to Negative terminal of Ignition Coil (Female terminal on wire)

· Connect Black wire to Ground (ignition coil mount bracket) (alligator clip on wire)

If the engine starts & runs, the original Ignition Amplifier is defective. Could be a bad 4 pin Ignition Module or, a shorted Condenser, or a shorted Diode. The Condenser and the Diode can be disconnected with no effect on the Ignition Module or the operation of the car.

I now include The Wired Spare Ignition Amplifier in my “glove box” spares kit with a CTS sensor and common fuses.

1. When, no restart with warm engine bay, take room temperature CTS from glove box and hook up electric leads from CTS sensor on coolant rail, if engine starts then CTS sensor is problem. If you get a start, wrap spare CTS sensor in rag and lay on top of coolant rail to get home. If no start, install wire connectors back on original CTS.

2. Next try bypassing Ignition Amplifier with the pre-wired Spare Ignition Module (as above). If still no start, call your favorite AAA flatbed tower to get you home.

Note: The Spare Ignition module bypass is to get you home!! With no heat sink, the module will not last long. Those cheap ones on Amazon for $ 15.00 will do the job to get you home. It is like insurance, if you have a spare in your glove box, the main unit will not fail. Only in the UK do people actually have gloves in the glove box, in California its call an insurance box. (Emergency parts and Emergency phone numbers)
Rgds
David