Fellow Series II Owners - I have this problem where my gas gauge reads fine from both tanks when cold. Once the car is running for about five minutes, it goes down to zero on both tanks. I swapped out the gauge for a known good gauge yesterday with the exact same problem, so I'm reasonably sure it's not the gauge. Anybody have any ideas?


I'm also looking for NOS quantity two BD.42190 Coupe inner door seal, If per chance you have that. I did post in the classifieds wanted.


Many thanks, Bill

 

Bill:


Just a guess. Not likely that both sensors in the tanks would go bad at the same time.
And, unless you swapped in a bad guage for a bad guage, that is not likely.


So, what else is common? My bet would be the selector switch in the dash!!!
The switch itself or merely the feed connections.


Before you take things apart again, just exercise the switch for a few l-r cycles.


If that doesn't work. Remove and replace the connecting wires a few times.


And, lastly, remove the switch, test for continuity in L & R mode. If it flunks, get another from David Boger at everydayxj!!!


PS, nice looking car!!!


Carl

 

Okay, I'll give it a try. Many thanks!

 

Wudja just Look at that!
Another BLACK kitty!
Gorgeous!!
(';')

 

JagCad - Right you were! Once I starting moving the plug to the fuel tank switching switch the fuel gauge started working. I gingerly put it back into the receptacle and will take it apart tonight, clean it out, reseat the plug and I'm sure all will be well. Didn't want to risk it when away from my garage with tools and such. Afraid the fuel pumps would stop working and I'm stuck.


Thank you for the sage advice.


Bill

 

Update - once I pulled the plug off and burnished the male contacts, and cleaned both male and female parts with electrical cleaner - all is well. Two questions:


Is there supposed to be a light that lights the red and green arrows depending on which tank is chosen?


My fuel gauge does not read correctly when full. Anyone know how to adjust this? Is it done at the tanks with each sender?

 

More guessing. My mind says right in, left out as to the switch. On SIII cars, a mark on he button side. I've not seen any lights.


As to fuel levels, it is most likely at the senders in the tanks. Simple floats on a lever operating variable resistors aka rheostats. Clean, adjust or swap is the fix.


Search LnrB's write up on her fix.




Carl

 

Doubtless unused for some time. That's how these contacts get the non-conductive patina.

There is indeed a light within the switch itself. I've never had occasion to take mine apart so I don't know exactly how it works, but I'm thinking it's a white bulb that shines through red and green filters on the switch face. There may be 2 bulbs that light according to the switch position.
The problem is with automatic shutoff pumps. If I'm careful, and choose the exact right pump, I *Can* get enough gas in the tank to make the gauge read FULL. If I let it shut off where it wants to, I have a reading of just over 3/4 full. As I understand it, this is the situation with all Series Xj6s.

If you Really want the gauge to read FULL, you can bend the float wire on the sender. Bend it a bit DOWN which will force the sender wiper UP. But if you do that you will have a false EMPTY reading.

When I changed a sender, https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-unit-166388/ I didn't do that because I find it a challenge to get Every Last Drop Possible into my tanks. I want to be able to look in the filler and SEE where the gas it when it clicks off.
(';')

 

As far as full versus almost full and red light green light for which tank, I've decided to win the war and skip the meaningless battles.