im looking at buying an 89 XJS with a bad input shaft seal. whats the procedure for removing the transmission.

ive removed the transmission in several RWD cars, but it looks like theres some sort of cover plate under the transmission. how easy/hard is it to get the trans out on an XJS?

 

I haven't had the trans out of the car yet so I do not know exactly how hard it is to get to the top bolts. I do know the top starter motor bolt needs a 7/16, 3/8 drive 12 point socket, nothing else will fit. Also be careful removing the rear trans spring mount, use a jack under the mount to hold tension before you remove the bolts, there is a lot of tension on this spring.

 

Assuming this is a V12, the engine/gearbox is supported on three points, one each side of the block and one under the gearbox. The cover you refer to is, in effect, a platform on which the gearbox tail sits, supported by a spring which damps out vibrations.

To remove the box, I suggest this general procedure: first support the engine across the V by the rear lifting eyes using chains, threaded rod to tighten them and a beam across the engine resting in the wing (fender) gutters.

Then, support the gearbox under the sump with a block of wood across it using a jack. Then undo the big nut you can see in the centre rear than is holding the tail down to the bracketry, and has the spring above it. Then undo all the other supports until the propshaft is visible.

At this point the arrangement looks familiar. After disconnecting the all the various wires and tubes, you can tilt the engine down at the tail a bit by releasing the jack and beam chains a touch, and then get to the bell housing fixings, starter motor nuts etc.

Hope this helps

Greg

 

All is spot on.

That spring on the rear plate will HURT if not treated with the utmost respect, trust me.

I HATE laying under a car, too old for it now, so when mine needed doing I just heaved the engine and trans out as a unit, split it on the floor, and did what was needed and put it back.

OK, some under car work is required, but that trans is HEAVY, and awkward at best, and if you are lucky enough to get the bolts out, dont forget you got to get em back in again.

I always find so many other items to "tidy up" whilst the enginme is out, and they are usually only doable with the engine out, thats why they have never been done before and seriously need attention now.

I am a firm believer of "do it once, do it properly, and forget it for another 20 years". Sounds along winded way sometimes, but to have to keep revisiting the same/similar area many times for fixes is not my idea of fun.

I had the engine out in 1 day, all the work done in 2, and back in and running in 1 more, so not that bad me thinks.

This was all in my shed at home, no hoist or fancy stuff except an engine crane (one armed bandit we call them).

 

i figured i would post up the car in question. $2,500. leaking input shaft seal, bad wiper motor, and a touch of play in the steering wheel. 108,000 miles on the odometer.

 

Like this

 

Engine is looking a bit on the warm side is that needle above the N. Could be used for bargaining power.

The 89 is a good car most of the problems were sorted and depending on month of manufacture could have lip seal instead of rope for the rear main.

Check the inside of the lower rear sills accessible from the boot (sorry trunk). There are also drains in the underside of these panels check these for rust There are 2 on the RHS and one on the Left, if there has been water in these sides these drain pipes could just pull out with the rust, also if they are not there the car has been repaired.

Mine were swimming pools every time I drove in the rain. Found the water coming in around the wheel arch so I have rust in my LH wheel arch where the inner and outer come together.

 

Nice condition, much better then what I am working with. Good luck!