XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

1978 Roadster, V12

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  #1  
Old 09-05-2010, 05:17 PM
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Default 1978 Roadster, V12

some pix of my XJS roadster, modded V12 ,hi-comp pistons, Crane race cams, heads flowed and ported, intake manifolds EXTRUDE honed aka larger, port matched, chambers Swain coated ,SS oversize valves.

standalone EMS, oversize injectors,custom fuel rails, and lines Aeroquip, 6mm oversize TBs, duall K&N air filts.
plus some look pretty bling stuff on engine.

exhaust manifolds Extruded, coated and matched, 2 1/4 down pipes, all flowing into glass pacs, 5" outlet on drivers side,RHD. 6 is nice BUT the sound of 12 cyl. is awesome, YUP! you can hear it.LOL

700R4 transmission 4spd with 4th overdrive, built with upgraded parts, 10" convertor HD, Aluminum drivshaft one piece, diff. ratio 3.73, hi bias LSD.

brakes upgrade, aluminum calipers, SS lines,drilled and champherd rotors, HAWK pads, new shocks all around,KONI.
slightly lowered,(not enough tho).

new wood dash, Motolita str. wheel, RECARO leather seats, redo full interior.

body reinforcments, and a cross bulked behind seat.

Wheels ENKI 18-9 front ,, 18-10 rear, had to widen the rear body,flares.
tires 275-35-18 frt., rear 300-35-18.

YES it was a coupe, but it aint no more, get out the sawsall and get at it.

custom fuel cell and system, pump, FPR, & filter SX.

Well i must have been ahead of the curve, this all took place in 1994-1996.

Ron
 
Attached Thumbnails 1978 Roadster, V12-jag-rodstr-015.jpg   1978 Roadster, V12-jag-rodstr-011.jpg   1978 Roadster, V12-jag-rodstr-005.jpg   1978 Roadster, V12-jag-rodstr-002.jpg   1978 Roadster, V12-jag-rodstr-004.jpg  

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Old 09-05-2010, 05:25 PM
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Default more pix 78

did i mention weight, had it weighed on a digital calibrated scale.

actual weight 3360 lbs. no driver , 1/2 tank fuel.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1978 Roadster, V12-mazda-jag-rodst-025.jpg   1978 Roadster, V12-mazda-jag-rodst-031.jpg   1978 Roadster, V12-mazda-jag-rodst-032.jpg   1978 Roadster, V12-mazda-jag-rodst-023.jpg   1978 Roadster, V12-mazda-jag-rodst-043.jpg  

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Old 09-05-2010, 08:12 PM
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What kind of stand alone efi are you using? What kind of hp do ou figure you are making. I have been fighting a long battle trying to find a problem with my 84 XJS and don't want to lump it but if I could find a good stand alone system that will drive 12 injectors??


Thanks for the info.

Brian Felts

www.southernohioauto.com
 
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:03 AM
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standalone is an SDS(simple digital systems) canada.

it can be triggered by the coil terminal.
it is pretty simple.
 
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:05 AM
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almost forgot;!!
rear wheel hp, on Dynojet, 355whp, at 6500rpm.

Ron
 
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:09 AM
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lumpin a 12cyl. jag is the easy way out.

seen a 1968 XKE roadster with a 350Chevy and automatic trans.

the car looked like it was crying, and totaly worthless.
 
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:39 AM
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How did you find simple digital systems and what was the plus and minus of the system. I don't want to lump mine but I am tired of chasing my tail. Here is the link to my problem see if you may have some input. I would appreciate any help.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ht=Brian+Felts



Brian Felts
 
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:04 PM
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Hey, what did you do with the headlights? It looks like a combination of the old US style and the Euro...
 
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:13 PM
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Default headlight mods 78 xjs

sometimes you gotta do what it takes, when JAGUAR rust takes place.

stock Euro lights had totally rusted buckets, so I used some projector beams on the inside lights , and hiway driving lights for outside beams.
flat black paint behind in the empty buckets, conceals mounting brackets.

it works great, low on projectors, hi on driving beams, dip is all lights.

didnt cost a lot, cost of new buckets from jag can almost buy another jag.
shame how low prices are on used old XJS.

Ron
 
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:55 PM
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bump!!
 
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:59 PM
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Need more details!
 
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:17 PM
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it looks one heaping hell of a lot better than the XJSC.
what have you done as far as weight reduction?
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:58 AM
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hey i'll get back to you guys,

wifes rushin christmas shopping!

and i'm trying to remember all thats been done, a lot, but 16yrs ago.

any input on value , really dont drive it much, i'm thinkin about it?
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:24 PM
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I know prices have not come up. I know a few Jaguar speculators that have made more money off of parting cars out than trying to sell a running one whole.
As always, modified cars are a crap shoot for the buyer. If it's done well, and you can prove it's done well, and you run into an educated buyer, you still won't get you money out of it.
I wish I were the lucky buyer however.
Originally Posted by ronbros
hey i'll get back to you guys
Patiently awaiting my Christmas present from ronbros
.
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:50 PM
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well, i do have a 2hr, video of the complete restoration and modifications, that goes with the car when its sold!

compression ratio 10-1 factory pistons, bought new as a kit,from overstock, balanced to original 9-1 pistons. Euro spec.

Camshafts Crane regrind to 300* duration , .395 lift at valve, (a little to radical for my tastes), a lot of work to put stock back in,if you are familier with doing Jag cyl. heads,PROPERLY!!
thet idle like a top fuel dragster, clackity,clackity, clackity.

but they run out 6500-7000rpm easy, torque peak up around 4500rpm, thats just to high for a street car. IMO.

for lightening any factory car, you start at the begining, you completely strip the car down to a bare unit body structure, a bare platform and shell, nothing left in vehicle.

no engine or transmission, no front subframes or rear cages, put them aside for future tho.
no doors ,trunk lid , hood , all glass, no interior at all, all dash ,a/c,heater,ducts ,yeah just everything, including wireing, and all the dreaded LUCAS stuff.

then you start the cleaning of all tar , body fillers, anything thaat is not body metal.

i sandblasted my entire car body spending time in RUST suspect areas.
today they media blast things.

after blasting,then the real rust shows up, it was scary, but like anything i do,i do my best.

then you cut open any rust joints, like seam welds, drill em out,cut em out, just get all oxidation out, use good metal and weld evrything back together, open any closed box sections and clean and inspect.

i then sprayed the entire body inside and out with a rust proofing EPOXY paint.
do all necissary body work, a lot of time spent on this process, take your time and do it correctly, and multible coats of epoxy primer.

i added my reinforcments at this time, a sheet metal bulked behind seat ,welded half way up the door posts, then using 1" sq. tubing reinforced the area where the rear seat was.
finally a good Base coat/Clear coat paint system, paint is a custom Kolor but called
PINK CHAMPAGNE SILVER.

then came the lightening process, strip all subframes and cages, blast them clean and cut all the places you can Plasma cut holes(without weakening the piece).

my trans is 4spd but 30lbs lighter than 3spd 400. a lite weight 10" convertor another 15lbs. cut holes in flexplate rebalance,( engine response is encredible).

removed all Lucas stuff from engine,starter, alternator, P/S pump, A/C pump, i happened across a P/S pump from a Viper, weighed it,only 3.5 lbs, compared to Jag pump at 15lbs.
all those pieces were much lighter, my starter is from a Ford 4cyl. but cranks that 12 no problem.

Brakes , stock rotors frt&rer cross drilled, if you want to save some serious wt, just wegh the front castiron calipers 14lbs, i used Wildwood aluminum 4piston, with Hawk pads, weighs only 4lbs each, and that unsprung weight.

fuel tank replace with light weight plastic 20gal. cell, all fuel lines aluminum,full length.

cut the roof off, weghed 60lbs, quarter glass 5lbs each.

A/c condenser and hoses 20lbs.

bumpers, removed the impact struts(they heavy), used simple exhaust tubing welded in place of. all 4 saved 20lbs.

exhaust system, id guess saved 70lbs, i use a side exhaust. no cats.

still got the heater in there tho.

seat are lighter also,around 7-10lbs each, no rear seats,just carpet.

FYI it still has the UK glove box sticker saying it is a 2 passenger vehicle, certified.

it was converted from a coupe to XJSC, in England, 1979-1980, i did the Roadster conversion.

also of interest, a real roadster has no top, only a snapon torneau cover,with zipper,COOL.

a car with a folding top is said to be a convertible, or soft top.

iv often thought about a removible CARSON top, padded in and out,COOL again!

but thats a project for another day.

wheels ENKEI about same wt. as originals.

OK i most likly forgot some thing,may remember later, i'll post if i do!

THX for your interest, YES runs great, faster than stock,

RON
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:59 PM
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forgot to mention all body work was done on a ROTESSORIE roll over unit,

you can do a much more thorogh job, the devil is in the details.

and the complte car was rust proofed with the EAST wax oil compound, like 2 gallons of the stuff. all the nooks and cranies,plus boxed sections ,drilled holes then sealled with plastic buttons.
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:10 PM
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ronbros, that was a labor of love! Would be awesome if you had the VHS converted to a digital format and posted it for posterity!
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:28 AM
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what stall is that converter?
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:15 AM
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You've done a lovely job on that car, but one question - there seems to be no convertible top. What do you do if it rains ?
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:48 PM
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You've done a lovely job on that car, but one question - there seems to be no convertible top. What do you do if it rains ?
what do you do when it rains on your motorcycle? thats the whole point of a roadster.
 


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