I hope i have the correct thread placement.
I have an 84 xjs bought car not running it does turn over by the starter fine.I noticed fuel smell in oil.I drained oil, put new oil filter and oil in it.I dont want to try starting it,if it will obviously dump more fuel in oil.it takes alot of oil.anyways,I ohmd out my coolant temp sensor it reads 1.6 aprox on a 2k setting.is this within limits? also ohmd air sensor on drv side air snorkel.it reads 1.3 on 2k setting.please if anyone can tell me if this is within limits on these two sensors.and if rhis is a good place to start.I do have 12vs to coil.
thanks.

 

Do you have spark? Please list the year and 12 or 6 cylinders so we can better help you.

 

My bad. 84. Still, have spark?

 

If you do have a big fat blue spark, and still no starting, pull some spark plugs and see if they are wet. If the injector loom is failing (almost inevitable on a '84 car) and earthing itself, the injectors can stay on all the time. This dumps fuel into the sump via the piston rings and produces a no start. Basically, this is the only way substantial amounts of fuel can enter the sump.

Greg

 

Thanks for the replies..yes it is V12 HE.I havent checked for spark yet.I will do so today.I did notice alot of fuel in oil pan when i drained it.also i noticed dist.is loose.so i dont know if it had been taken out at one point.so i am going to check timming by dampner mark, and see if #1 piston is up on compression stroke.I did notice on the power amplifier by dist there are two wires,with push pull connectors,there white with slate or blue stripe (hard to tell).my book says one goes to tach,and other goes to ecu.they are not hooked up.would this keep it from starting?Thanks for reply Greg.what you,said about inj loom how would i test that?

 

Assuming you are talking about the wires that come out of the white rubber bung on the coil side of the amplifier, yes they would! There are FOUR wires coming out of this bung. Looking from above, starting with the LEFTMOST wire: The wire with the bullet connector and the grey stripe goes to the tach and there should be a loom wire hanging about the other side of the coil with a thin spiral blue stripe ready to take it. The next two wires with spade connectors go to the coil: white only to the + terminal, black spiral striped one to the negative.

The last wire furthest to the right of the bunch with a thin (I think) grey stripe goes to the ECU inside a shielded coax type wire and if that is disconnected, shorting out to the shield or broken somewhere between the amp and the ECU the car will not start.

Sort this out and ensure you have a spark before dealing with or worrying about the injectors, I suggest!
Greg

 

thanks, that really helped. ill check it out the four wire bung.the two spade wires are hooked up correctly.the two bullet connectors are not.I did find a two wire harness with a solid black wire and a white wire in a wire like coax i took a picture.im asumming the white coax like wire goes to the right side bullet (female) connector.does the black regular wire go to the left (male) connector,tach?and how would i connect the coax wire to the bullet connector,since its like coax and has no bullit connector its cut? ill try to upload pics so you can see what im dealing with.I cant figure out the pic thing.it keeps asking ne to iner url for pics..so ill try to describe it.the two wire harness i found were in a harness between the throttle pedistal and firewall.with a four wire connecter (yellow wires).hope that makes sense..

 

Pics would help, but you have the, or one of, the source of your no start. As you said above, The RH wire goes to the wire INSIDE the coax. The coax shielding must not touch anything and must be insultated off any metal. Any decent connector will do the join the central coax wire to the loom wire.

The other one on the LHS goes to the tacho bullet connector loom wire that you should find, it has a blue spiral trace.
Greg

 

ok,so i am to strip the inner wire of the coax looking wire and connect that inner wire only to the female bullet rh wire on power amp.so there is no purpose for the outer wire on coax?
ill look for the loom by coil with a blue spyral for tach.
thanks again.
cliff.

 

Yes, pull back the outer woven shield and insulate it well. It is there to prevent interference in the signal to the ECU. The RH wire should have a blue or grey trace in i, mine does, anyway!

Grant Francis is the expert on the ign amp, so maybe he will confirm, correct, add his experience?
Greg

 

ok,looking from above leaning over car from drv side.the 4 wire bung facing coil.all white.two middle ones spade connectors.the wire left of those two is white with slate or gra blue tracer its a male bullit connector.that one is for tach? it connects to a wire with blue spiral you said is it wite with blue spiral? and the wire to the rht of those two middle spade connect wire is white with same tracer,blue gray its a female bullit connector.thats the one that goes to ecu correct? just want to clarify..in going to post pics on my garage.temporarly,so you can see my problem

 

Yes

Yes

Greg

 

great,so im on track.ok i posted another pic on my garage of a femle bullet connector i found.im assuming that must plug into lft male bullit connector for tach?
ok well there are more wires diconnect in that area as you can see.but I think this is enough to try a start.I think the other disconnected wire go to the two micro switches.kickdown and throttle.
im going to make sure timming is correct.then hook up new fuel pump and give it a try.
thanks again..

 

ive been trying to find out what size nut is on the crank pully so i cantry to get socket on there and turn eng to timming mark.do you have any idea cant find it in the repair manual.

 

As I recall it's pretty big. Something like 1-5/16.

But.....

Take a look at item #20 in this illustration.....

Crankshaft-5.3 Litre - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

This 'turning plate' is attached to the balancer and takes a 7/8" socket as I recall

Cheers
DD

 

ok so ill check mine and see if it has that turnning plate on it.It may not because eng was rebuilt a few years back.its pretty tight just to get your hand in there.
thanks for info..

 

well checked it out.there is no turnning plate,but there are smaller bolts around center nut.there i believe a 14 m so i also tried sockets on center nut the bigiest i have is 1 3/8" im pretty sure you are right, its 1 5/16 "slightly bigger.Is there any other way to turn over eng by hand?(without starter)
one question.eng is turnning over fine.the only reason i want to check timming is because someone had dist loose you can turn it by hand.i dont know if it had been romove and maybe put back wrong.wouldnt eng turn over hard erratically if timming was off??

 

I am going to try a post a photo, wish me luck. I was reading this post, and saw Greg's response about the ignition amplifier wire colors. Got me thinking because I changed mine, and have what I would have sworn was a plug wire arcing around that area. I looked this afternoon and found this (see picture). How do I properly fix it. Thanks to Greg for mentioning wire colors and shielding. Not sure about the photo, not a computer guy.

 

yes picture came through.Now is this the wire going to tach wire on amp,or wire(coax) from ecu?I hooked my coax wire to the female bullet wire rh side of 4 wire group looking above from drv side.wht with slate tracer.when i turn key on i have 12.6 v to that wire.the far lft wire (male bullet)also white with slate tracer i hooked to tach.with key on it has aprox 6v.with key on i have 12v going to both sides of coil.im hopen thats right.i can only post pics to my garage for some reason.ill post a pic there.there are a few wire connectors loose under hood ill post some pics on my garage.and hopefully someone might,reconize where they go.i know both of my micro switches at throttle are not hooke up.

 

I have not checked any voltages at this point. I pulled the "V" apart Sunday morning, and was getting ready for plugs, wires, cap and rotor. This find was by accident and-- with your guys help, for sure. It is the far right wire. It comes out of the amplifier with a grey stripe, and goes into shielded heavy coax looking wire, kinda beige colored before it gets to the coax area. The far left has a grey stripe and is hooked up to the white with blue streaking going to the tach. Other two coil wires are easy. Can I heat shrink just that area, or is it more involved. The last guy wrapped it with what looked like white medical tape.
Thanks
Phil