Hi all,

New member here, hoping for some advice on getting my XJSC up and running. I took the car unseen as a part completed project that had sat since around 2002 (but run and inspected in around 2009). I think it is in good shape and have bills from the restoration in the late 90s, but I’ve not had it running.

I haven’t got much space to work in, so the plan is to get the car moving first to be able to move it out the garage on days when I need the space for DIY / work on my daily drivers – but I also like doing things right, so I’ll see what else needs work on the way to running.

I’ve read a lot of the threads on the forum and have an idea what I need to do. So far I’ve moved the throttle pedestal, CC bellows and AC pump, cleaned the V and changed the plugs – a few questions I’m hoping the more experienced share some wisdom on:

• I was going to leave the hoses until the car moves so I could change them and flush over a drain, but one hose started leaking when I was leaning on the engine to do the plugs. I’m sure I’ve read that rubber is better than silicone because it leaks slowly rather than bursting and losing all coolant in 5 seconds – is this still true?

• I’m getting ready to take the radiator out to do the hoses – are the transmission fluid lines full when not running? The support bar under the radiator is rusted and needs cleaning / painting – I guess its best to do this while the rad is out, but how much else needs to come out to get this bar out? Anything else I should do at the same time?

• I think I need to turn the engine by hand – 7/8ths nut on the crank pulley, clockwise (looking front to back) and never turn it backwards? Is it worth putting any oil in the cylinders, and what would you use and how much?

Once the engine turns by hand and (now) once I’ve done the cooling system, the plan will be to look at the fuel system before trying to start the engine, but one for another day.

Many thanks for any suggestions / words of wisdom,

Richard

PS – any cabriolet specific advice or pointers will be greatly appreciated, there doesn’t seem to be much in the repair manual or online about the cabriolet differences (I can see a ladder brace running under the IRS cage and I haven’t dared to look how it comes off yet!).

 

Welcome to the Forum!

I have an XJSC and found an interesting article on our model here's a link to it: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...istory-194576/

Regarding the questions you have raised, there are many experts who will give you a list of 'to-do's' but my biggest recommendation would be to change your fuel hoses as a priority...

Enjoy the car more than anything my friend

 

Hi, thanks for your reply - that's a great article, I've read the Nigel Thorley book as well. As someone who has grown up in the mass produced 'shared platform' era (my XJSC is about 10 months older than me), it's amazing that they shipped the cars between 4 different factories to put the roof on, cut it off and then add the soft tops!

That's a really good point on the fuel lines and its probably worth doing them - the car is a bit of an unknown in that I've got the restoration records from 96 to 00. It was a full restoration including new or recon engine, gearbox and a lot of other parts. (I think) it has done about 200 miles since then, but I need to work out what needs replacing even though it hasn't been used - the cooling hoses have definitely had it!

 

If the lower radiator support is rusty then you should have a good look at the condition of the top of the front subframe; an endoscope is handy or wiggle your phone in to take some pics.

 

Thankfully I think the front subframe is in good shape - after reading the restoration threads, I was dreading looking, but I've been over it with a phone endoscope attachment from ebay and it all looks good, no holes or surface rust that I can see on top of the frame.

I'm guessing that the lower radiator panel wasn't replaced in the restoration, or was exposed where it was parked up - as far as I know, it was in a garage for part of the lay up, then in a barn after that.


Fingers crossed, the metal all looks good, with a few small rust spots where there are paint chips on panels. I hoping I don't find anything too worrying!

 

Hi Richard

Taking out the Radiator is a fairly simple job, which I have done single handed but if you don't want to take the Bonnet/Hood off which I have never done and never wanted to do

Then you need to disconnect the 'Gas Struts' and then get the Bonnet/Hood up in the Air as high as it will go, while also being careful not to crush the Grill

Where for doing jobs like that, I made myself what I call 'Maintenance Struts' to hold the Bonnet/Hood up in the Air, so that it cannot fall over in either direction (I'll put a link of how I made these at the bottom of this page)

With the Bonnet/Hood out of the way, the next job is to remove the Cross Pipes as well as the Panel that goes across the Top of the Rad (being very careful not to lose the Spacer underneath the Copper Washers which it is best to replace)

Then undo the Oil Pipes for the Tranny Oil Cooler, where at most you will lose about a cup full of Oil

Next lean the Fan Shroud back out of the way and put a piece of Cardboard between the Fan Shroud and the Rad, so that it doesn't get damaged (I prefer to take the Fan Shroud out but that is up to you)

While the Bottom Rad hose is reckoned to be the hardest one to undo, it can be done if you break the Seal with a rubber Strap Wrench, though some other people including myself cut the Bottom Hose through with a Bread Knife

The other hoses come off fairly easy and you can still get OEM ones from Jaguar Main Dealers, which I prefer to any other type

Once you've got the Hoses off, there is nothing else holding it in, except for the Pegs on the Bottom of the Rad, that slot into 2 rubber doughnuts on the Bottom Beam, where only a bit of rust and corrosion may make you think otherwise

So gently lift it up each side until you have loosened it up enough to lift out

Then while leaning over the Car, get a hand on each side of the Rad and lift it out in one go, which is not that difficult as its more a question of 'Technique' rather than brute force (Although of course you could get someone to help you)

Providing they are as Careful as you are going to be!

Once the Rad is out of the Way, now is the time to replace all the Belts and Carefully clean any 'Crud' off the face of the Rad, unless you want to consider a re-core, as you'll never have a better time than now

Same goes for replacing the Fan Clutch and the Fan if it has any Cracks

My Home Made 'Maintenance Struts' make these jobs easy and I only wish that I had thought of that idea before

Making my Quick Release Home Made Maintenance Struts to Hold the Bonnet/Wide open Page: 98 of my 'Cherry Blossom' restoration thread (Dimensions may vary)

Making Quick Release Bonnet/Hood Struts to Hold the Bonnet/Hood Wide Open XJS V12 pre-facelift

 

Thanks Orangeblossom, I've read all of your restoration thread, which is a huge help, thank you.

The bonnet is out of the way (see photo - lessons learned, don't use rope that stretches or one side will be lower than the other & use pulleys rather than d rings, but the bonnet is now out the way and secure).

Thanks, I'll try the dealer for the hoses. Are the copper washers still in stock at the dealers, or are they a standard size? With the tight space, I'm thinking of drilling a hole in the lower hose to get the coolant cleanly out in one place and then I think you are right, I can cut the bottom hose to get it out as I'm replacing it.

I'm in two minds about the fan - long term plan is to switch to electric, but at the moment I don't know that the car / engine is good. I might see if I have space to do what I need to with the stock fan in place, if not, remove it and make a decision on switching to electric fans before I put the car on the road?

The strut mods look like a great idea - on my car the bolts have been replaced with ***** (I think from the later cars), so I need to think about how that can work - either a second ball point if there's anywhere to mount to, or may be some sort of scissor action to move the ball closer to the front for maintenance, but that might be over complicating it.

Thanks for your input, much appreciated.

 

Hi Richard

While you can still get the Washers from the Main Dealers, the Spacer might be a problem but if you have a look on ebay for XJS Radiator Washers and Spacer

There is a firm in 'Latvia' that sell an improved version, with the Banjo Bolt and Spacer and all the Copper Washers £20

Don't use the Old Washers as you could have a leak which could take you a Week to trace

Unfortunately at the time when I had to do mine, I didn't know about those 'Guys' I've mentioned, although I did replace those Copper Washers with some New Ones

Its all here including Pics on Page: 49 of my 'Cherry Blossom' restoration thread

Replacing the Copper Washers on the Radiator Cross Pipe on 'Cherry Blossom' my V12 XJS

 

 

So the radiator is now out – everything came out as described (useful to know what I’m looking for so thank you for the description).

The threaded ATF connections were a pain because there seemed to be no space and I was worried about breaking the connections on the radiator, but they came off in the end with a crows foot extension bar contraption. I did struggle to get the bottom hose attachment on the radiator up past the small fan shroud and ended up undoing the shroud at the bottom as well to move it further back.

The coolant looked terrible, sludge / muck and all, but hopefully it flushes ok. A bit of a wake up – in the few weeks since I started on the car, everything has been in good shape but just dirty. But I suppose water and rubber were always going to suffer most from the long layup. Good news is all the metal around the radiator / engine bay looks good.

Water hoses are ordered, so while I wait for these, I need to get on with cleaning everything up. So, today’s list of questions (thank you and sorry, getting further out of my comfort zone each day!):

> The radiator looks in good shape – is there a best way to flush it out?

> The rad top panel and fan shroud have rust spots on them. I’ve not done much paint work, how is it best to do these (sand / wire brush back, rust treater, prime and spray?)?

> The (aluminium?) hose attachments on the engine have a dusty / corroded build up on the – can I just scrape / sand these back to clean metal?

> Do I cause myself any big problems later if I take the ac compressor out of the car? From reading, I think I’d need a new dryer and regas, but probably would anyway after years unused. While I’ve got the space, I could clean up the engine more, but the compressor is in the way.

I think I found the banjo bolt kit (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-XJ...-/323209497958), but I’m going to have another look at mine, as I think the bolt was already brass. I’ll clean it and see, but if it is already the uprated part, then I’ll just find the copper washers.

Tomorrow I’m going to see if the engine turns by hand!

Thanks for the help, Richard

 

Run metal rescue for 24hrs in the coolant system then finish with a professional rad flush fluid from LiquiMoly.

Metal rescue

Personally I use a garden hose to fill the system then repeatedly shop-vac the rad from each inlet, and then the thermo housings on both sides, you may need multiple flushes to get it all.

I run a few liters of Metal Rescue in with the new coolant anyway to prevent further corrosion issus, it is ph neutral and has similar properties to water.

I'd also recommend a permenant coolant filter add-on. Some people prefer these Tebfa salad strainers I use a semi-truck spin on coolant filter it collects the disgusting amount of silt and rust particulate in the system.

As for your AC compressor you can remove it, along with the useless smog pump and come back to that later, but be sure to seal off the hoses to avoid exposure to atmosphere. This is what my local (legendary) Jag mechanic told me.

 

Hi Richard

If you want to refurb the Top Panel and the Fan Shroud, then look no further than 'Dukes Jag' who has done the most Amazing Job that I have ever seen and made those components look almost better than when they were New

Have a look at Dukes Jag Restoration of the Fan Shroud and Top Panel (wished mine looked as good as that!)

 

(First time quoting, not sure how this will turn out!)


Thanks Vancouver, I'll look up Metal Rescue / LiquiMoly as I think it'll need doing. I think I read about the coolant filter in the Book? I might come back to that once the car is running.

The Dukes Jag parts look fantastic - I think mine will have more of a 'homemade' vibe to them!

Not much progress this week as work is busy and the garage is cold.

I've tried to take the fan out tonight - the belt is loosened and the four nuts are undone all the way to the back of the fan, but I'm not getting any movement on the fan away from the pulley. Am I missing anything, or is it just metal to metal contact which has stuck together? I thought about getting a hammer, which is usually a good time to stop for the night - I've left it soaking in penetrating oil and will see what it is like tomorrow.

Thanks,

Richard

 

So, there has been some mission creep!

The plan was to do plugs, check the engine turns by hand, address fuel and start the car, coming back to everything else once the car can be moved in and out of the garage. Then a water hose was leaking, so it made sense to do hoses and belts now.

So far:

> Belts and hoses are out and new ones ordered.

> The fan wouldn't separate from the pulley so I took the pulley out with the fan attached and separated them on the bench. I think the fan is cracked (see photo - before I get rid of it, those are cracks at 12, 3 and 6 aren't they?). Rather than buying a new fan and belt to be changed later, I think I'm going to do the electric fan now - need to think about how to trigger it (with the small fan, or choose one of the other options?).

> Front half of engine bay cleaned and rad support beam rust treated, need to paint this so the radiator can go back in once flushed.

> The engine turns by hand! Huge relief.

A couple of questions I was hoping for some help with:

1. Is this alternator connected properly? I've read a post from Doug where he said the exciter and load dump go to the same terminal, and a second load dump goes to ground. There's an old inspection report in the history file which said it wasn't charging, so I thought I'd ask.

2. Does anyone know the part number for the small vacuum pipe coming off the chrome pipe just above the left thermostat - it seems to fall between the diagrams I can find on JCP?

Many thanks,

Richard

 

I too, am in the process of bring a XJSC back to life. Sitting for over 10 years. But I have started on the other end. Took the fuel tank out, flushed extensively, treated for possible rust, and then replaced every fuel line back there. What was most shocking was the sump. Absolutely caked in whatever it is. Took three good soakings in carb cleaner to get it looking pretty good.
I too, highly recommend replacing all of the fuel lines. Look up flushing injectors as well. Last V12 I got running had sat for 4 years, and 5 of the injectors wouldn't spray fuel at all until several attempts.

 

I removed my fuel lines carefully and had new copies made at a local hydraulic pipe company for a very reasonable price.