1989 XJ-S Resto-Thread - or "my Iron Lady"
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Daim
Congrats on the new job. Good for you. Do not funk changing the windscreen seal. I have for years bodged mine up and now I have to renew it. I wish I had done it when the car was in pieces! Cut the old one out, or you will crack the screen most probably.
This is what I did on the drain Warren mentioned.
Congrats on the new job. Good for you. Do not funk changing the windscreen seal. I have for years bodged mine up and now I have to renew it. I wish I had done it when the car was in pieces! Cut the old one out, or you will crack the screen most probably.
This is what I did on the drain Warren mentioned.
Last edited by Greg in France; Mar 11, 2017 at 08:55 AM.
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I'll have a look around the areas and see what makes most sense there...
Regarding the screen: as I want the sunroof removed (so it will be welded closed) and also need a new headliner, I was planning on doing the windscreen with the headliner and sunroof welding... Wouldn't make sense to replace the gasket twice
And lucky me, I kept the good St. Gobain screen from my scrap car... Mine is slowly delaminating around the edges...
Regarding the screen: as I want the sunroof removed (so it will be welded closed) and also need a new headliner, I was planning on doing the windscreen with the headliner and sunroof welding... Wouldn't make sense to replace the gasket twice
And lucky me, I kept the good St. Gobain screen from my scrap car... Mine is slowly delaminating around the edges...
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Well, firstly the parts are rare for them. Making a sunroof a "costy" thing to go wrong. technically, Jaguar didn't actually fit them from factory but supplied a "fitting kit" for a Hollandia (Webasto) unit.
Secondly, headroom is quite tight. I'm not the tallest person, but if I sit comfy, my head is touching the ceiling... Not the nicest way to drive. I would gain at least 2 inches of head room just by removing the unit. Maybe even three.
Thirdly, I like sunroofs, but the overall condition of the unit isn't the best. I have seen better and this leads to firstly... Parts are rare and Webasto doesn't want to know about anything of it's Hollandia division's past...
Secondly, headroom is quite tight. I'm not the tallest person, but if I sit comfy, my head is touching the ceiling... Not the nicest way to drive. I would gain at least 2 inches of head room just by removing the unit. Maybe even three.
Thirdly, I like sunroofs, but the overall condition of the unit isn't the best. I have seen better and this leads to firstly... Parts are rare and Webasto doesn't want to know about anything of it's Hollandia division's past...
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Hey Warren,
I think I will actually follow your advice and take the wings off prior welding, to see if there is actually a hole there. Would be a waste of effort and time simply removing them afterwards again...
My windscreen seal is really dry. You can touch it and it crumbles away... So I assume it will have a little bit of rust behind it... I hope not but I guess it will be like that.
I think I will actually follow your advice and take the wings off prior welding, to see if there is actually a hole there. Would be a waste of effort and time simply removing them afterwards again...
My windscreen seal is really dry. You can touch it and it crumbles away... So I assume it will have a little bit of rust behind it... I hope not but I guess it will be like that.
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Crikey... It really is hard to find a bearing for the fan...
The RHP one is totally non-available anymore. Never ever again will it be on sale (as it was supposed to be custom made for Jaguar).
I've found a few which would fit BUT no company is prepared to sell them. For example from Schäffler/Schaeffler: WB17313 (old number WK2496-2) or WB17311 (old number WS2479)
Dreadful "customer service" over here... If they don't have it, they don't answer. If they have it, they don't answer. You don't get any kind of answers... Sometimes I hate living in this country...
The RHP one is totally non-available anymore. Never ever again will it be on sale (as it was supposed to be custom made for Jaguar).
I've found a few which would fit BUT no company is prepared to sell them. For example from Schäffler/Schaeffler: WB17313 (old number WK2496-2) or WB17311 (old number WS2479)
Dreadful "customer service" over here... If they don't have it, they don't answer. If they have it, they don't answer. You don't get any kind of answers... Sometimes I hate living in this country...
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It has been a little slow here lately... Currently doing a computer course, which does take some time away...
Okay, so, alternator time. Luckily, this old car has a serviceable alternator. Not that it was broken, but whilst it is out, I might as well replace the parts inside most commonly to go wrong:
- regulator (Bosch 1 197 311 028)
- capacitor (Bosch 0 290 800 036)
- bearings (genereic sealed bearings 1x 17x62x17 mm, 1x 12x32x10 mm)
- maybe the diodes in the rear
Meant taking it to pieces. Rather simple job. Remove front nut with 24 mm socket, remove pulley and fan disc. Then remove the rear brush carrier/regulator as well as the capacitor. Undo the 4 screws around the casing and then carefully pry it apart... Carefully means hit it with a hammer
When the housing is separated, remove the 4 little screws that hold the front bearing to the body and then carefully whack the rotor out.
Last job, take measurements of the bearings and check the overall condition... Now just to order the parts and press the bearings off and on again
Okay, so, alternator time. Luckily, this old car has a serviceable alternator. Not that it was broken, but whilst it is out, I might as well replace the parts inside most commonly to go wrong:
- regulator (Bosch 1 197 311 028)
- capacitor (Bosch 0 290 800 036)
- bearings (genereic sealed bearings 1x 17x62x17 mm, 1x 12x32x10 mm)
- maybe the diodes in the rear
Meant taking it to pieces. Rather simple job. Remove front nut with 24 mm socket, remove pulley and fan disc. Then remove the rear brush carrier/regulator as well as the capacitor. Undo the 4 screws around the casing and then carefully pry it apart... Carefully means hit it with a hammer
When the housing is separated, remove the 4 little screws that hold the front bearing to the body and then carefully whack the rotor out.
Last job, take measurements of the bearings and check the overall condition... Now just to order the parts and press the bearings off and on again
Last edited by Daim; Mar 19, 2017 at 09:54 AM.
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Whew, the corrosion monster permeates all!!! but, it looks quite sound. Barings should tighten up nicely for many more RPM's.
My only doubt, might be that clearly worn copper part. Worn, it seems, but smoothly so!
Carl
My only doubt, might be that clearly worn copper part. Worn, it seems, but smoothly so!
Carl
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Well, the contact ring (what the brushes rub on) looks worn but is quite okay. I'll clean it up with some fresh clean fine sandpaper... Then it should be better than new... Or I can replace it. The copper only costs around €8 for an original Bosch part.
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The advantage of copper (which is used for its electrical conductivity) is that it does not rust under normal automotive conditions.
These contact rings, are they massive copper or is it a cladding? Difficult to see what the wear is but it seems indeed that there is still ample material left
These contact rings, are they massive copper or is it a cladding? Difficult to see what the wear is but it seems indeed that there is still ample material left
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Decided today, that I would give a few parts an inspection to decide what to do with them...
1. A/C compressor: little rusty outside, no feelable rattle inside (if the tumble plate was worn it would be hearable) and not oily. So it'll get some new seals and fresh oil.
2. PAS pump: was overhauled in 2014. New rubbers, seals and co. Paint is flaking off due to the coolant leak. A fresh coat of paint will be enough.
3. Alternator: bearings have a little play, the housing/casing is (as seen above) a little filthy. New bearings, regulator, brushes and co are ordered and the body will probably be either sandblasted clean of hand cleaned with brake cleaner and a tooth brush.
4. Dizzy cap: looks okay. Not worn or so. So that'll stay. Leads are nearly new (replaced them 2014, have only seen about 500 km of use... So they'll stay too).
5. Cruise control unit: is undergoing some galvanising... The body is totally torn down and prepared for some fresh and shiney housing parts.
The worst thing:
6. Radiator: torn apart with what to do. As you can see in the pictures below, the radiator looks worn and f**ked (sorry for the bad language but that is the best description for it). The front is totally rotten. The rear is all rusty. There has been some bodge with JB Weld as it looks on the front to seal it... Better than some rad-weld but still sh*te...
I have 3 options:
1. new radiator from Jaguar (~€800)
2. new aftermarket radiator (~€300 but quality isn't quite ideal)
3. recore (around about €400 but not totally confirmed yet)
I'm not so keen on aftermarket radiators (my old Volvos with aftermarket ones started to leak until I bought a PROPER Nissens one). The biggest problem is: my original plan was to have a separate oil cooler for the tranny and use a modified radiator which could use the extra coolant pipes for water instead (gain a few more rows of piping to cool the radiator) but after talking to my H-plate consultant, it isn't allowed. Original or original looking. I asked about electrical fans instead: okay, but only if the shroud is used again and it can be returned to factory setup without taking the entire front end apart. So that was dropped too...
Decissions over decissions... All to get an H plate. Just in case you ask "what is an H-plate?", this allows me to pay 1/6th of the standard road tax - instead of €1200 it would be ~€192 - and it permits me to drive into the ecozones, which only vehicles with green and soon blue stickers are allowed to (anything with emissions classes with cats and Euro 1 or better, though Euro 5 seems soon the "must have" then). It also declares the car as part of "automotive cultural importance"...
1. A/C compressor: little rusty outside, no feelable rattle inside (if the tumble plate was worn it would be hearable) and not oily. So it'll get some new seals and fresh oil.
2. PAS pump: was overhauled in 2014. New rubbers, seals and co. Paint is flaking off due to the coolant leak. A fresh coat of paint will be enough.
3. Alternator: bearings have a little play, the housing/casing is (as seen above) a little filthy. New bearings, regulator, brushes and co are ordered and the body will probably be either sandblasted clean of hand cleaned with brake cleaner and a tooth brush.
4. Dizzy cap: looks okay. Not worn or so. So that'll stay. Leads are nearly new (replaced them 2014, have only seen about 500 km of use... So they'll stay too).
5. Cruise control unit: is undergoing some galvanising... The body is totally torn down and prepared for some fresh and shiney housing parts.
The worst thing:
6. Radiator: torn apart with what to do. As you can see in the pictures below, the radiator looks worn and f**ked (sorry for the bad language but that is the best description for it). The front is totally rotten. The rear is all rusty. There has been some bodge with JB Weld as it looks on the front to seal it... Better than some rad-weld but still sh*te...
I have 3 options:
1. new radiator from Jaguar (~€800)
2. new aftermarket radiator (~€300 but quality isn't quite ideal)
3. recore (around about €400 but not totally confirmed yet)
I'm not so keen on aftermarket radiators (my old Volvos with aftermarket ones started to leak until I bought a PROPER Nissens one). The biggest problem is: my original plan was to have a separate oil cooler for the tranny and use a modified radiator which could use the extra coolant pipes for water instead (gain a few more rows of piping to cool the radiator) but after talking to my H-plate consultant, it isn't allowed. Original or original looking. I asked about electrical fans instead: okay, but only if the shroud is used again and it can be returned to factory setup without taking the entire front end apart. So that was dropped too...
Decissions over decissions... All to get an H plate. Just in case you ask "what is an H-plate?", this allows me to pay 1/6th of the standard road tax - instead of €1200 it would be ~€192 - and it permits me to drive into the ecozones, which only vehicles with green and soon blue stickers are allowed to (anything with emissions classes with cats and Euro 1 or better, though Euro 5 seems soon the "must have" then). It also declares the car as part of "automotive cultural importance"...
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Daim
Go for a recore, by far the best option and as good as a new OEM rad as long as your rad guy knows what he is doing. No magic to it at all.
The ATF coolant system is just a coiled pipe within the RHS end tank. Ditching it for an external will not affect the cooling particularly or give you significantly more engine cooling capacity. I fitted an external ATF cooler just for simplicity and to ensure I had one less thing to undo if I pulled the rad. BUT ask the rad guy to check the coil in the RH tank is not rusty or getting thin or weak-looking. A leaking coil will ruin the gearbox in no time flat as coolant gets into the ATF
Greg
Go for a recore, by far the best option and as good as a new OEM rad as long as your rad guy knows what he is doing. No magic to it at all.
The ATF coolant system is just a coiled pipe within the RHS end tank. Ditching it for an external will not affect the cooling particularly or give you significantly more engine cooling capacity. I fitted an external ATF cooler just for simplicity and to ensure I had one less thing to undo if I pulled the rad. BUT ask the rad guy to check the coil in the RH tank is not rusty or getting thin or weak-looking. A leaking coil will ruin the gearbox in no time flat as coolant gets into the ATF
Greg
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Oh, I thought it was - like Volvos had - an extra "pipe" along the cooling fins... Yeah. ATF in the water or water in the ATF isn't a good choice... Has killed an AW71 I had a few years back (Aisin Warner 71 3-speed + Overdrive , hell, that was a "great" tranny, every gear change felt like being hit in with a hammer instead of smooth change!).
Just trying to find a recore place in the area here who works for a good price. They all charge far too much for my opinion. I would like to keep my original rad as it is just the easiest, but they nearly charge more than Jaguar does for a new one!
, hell, that was a "great" tranny, every gear change felt like being hit in with a hammer instead of smooth change!).Just trying to find a recore place in the area here who works for a good price. They all charge far too much for my opinion. I would like to keep my original rad as it is just the easiest, but they nearly charge more than Jaguar does for a new one!
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Gregs suggestion of re-core is a good one I did my rad a few years ago, there are 2 different cores available, the later core is slightly thicker and has more fins, this is one I used.
My in radiator trans cooler is disconnected. It's on the HOT side of the radiator Jaguar should have put it on the other side. So IMHO does not cool the trans fluid, I have a heatsink cooler bolted behind the front bumper.
My in radiator trans cooler is disconnected. It's on the HOT side of the radiator Jaguar should have put it on the other side. So IMHO does not cool the trans fluid, I have a heatsink cooler bolted behind the front bumper.
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Now that my bloomin' XJ8 has decided to eat it's tranny, I'll be slowing down in here for a little while...
Darn X308. Just when things are realy reliable, it decides 'Hey, Damien, I want some parts too!', really helped by a broken down C180 (W204 MoPf) with a locked up engine in my drive way... Grrrrrr...
Darn X308. Just when things are realy reliable, it decides 'Hey, Damien, I want some parts too!', really helped by a broken down C180 (W204 MoPf) with a locked up engine in my drive way... Grrrrrr...