You have my respect. That's a tough job to do in the garage with all the time in the world. I can't imagine attempting a street-side removal/replace of the IRS rear cage.

Too bad you're not closer, I'd come over and help out.

Good luck and let us know how it goes today.

 

Maaaaan,,, as good as YOU are, that would be a real gift. From you (and all of y'all) that's a real compliment. Thank you.
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I've read through your restoration,,, have a link to the thread saved on my phone's home page for future reference when I really DO get my act together... Great learning material there.

It seems bad working this way, but not as bad as all that. I'm used to it by now and maybe don't know what I'm missing. I've never had it any other way. It's just that damn sun. It's the strangest feeling. It's constant,,, and once you get hot to the point of mild confusion,,, I start to kind hope it will let up (weird mind games one plays with one's self) and it NEVER does. I find myself saying to myself,,, if this sun would just let up, lol,,, I hope it will let up... Never happens, lolololololol. Crazy brains.


Yeah, OB. A couple show stopper type moments but all in all it all worked out. Wasn't too excited at the unforseen EXPENSE of a new floor jack, but I'll get my money's worth out of it. All's good in the hood! Also, I went in and told them of my PAIN. That the jack I had gotten from them SEIZED at this super critical moment with a 400lb blah blah blah axle,,,... The took off 30bucks, gave me a savings membership - which actually can save ya a buck or two in the long run - and I gave them an entertaining story to start there work day.

Cars all back together save a bolt here and a bolt there, and some cleanup.

Maybe someone can help me. Exhaust clamps. What's the stock size of the piping on these critters, factory? Two clamps to hold on the rear most silencers.

Also, is there a fool proof way to get the damn under axle pipes away from the calipers once and for all once bolted in? I've always struggled with this. Anywho.

Thanks all...

 

JJJ
The exhaust does move a bit once the car is back on its wheels, but what I do is to get everything connected up, pins engaged in the top bracket of the subframe, tunnel silencers connected, triangular clamps to the main silencers in front of the cage. BUT all clamps done up only tight enough so the exhaust stays in place, but is moveable. I also chock the tunnel silencers centrally in the tunnel with wood/rags/ what have you. Then, I push the pipes at the triangular connection part where I want, it to give clearance to the calipers, the underfloor and the cage front lip, and tighten.
Might take a couple of goes, but eventually...
because I lost one tunnel silencer, I had one made up but only 4 inches in diameter, which gives far more clearance, make no difference to the sound, and makes the job much easier. When/if (with fuel prices here at about 15.50 USD a gallon) funds allow I will get one for the other side too.

 

Hi Jay

Sorry to Hijack your Thread (again!)

But just so I can let everyone know that instead of having to destroy half my Merc 190e to replace the Ignition Cylinder Barrel as I couldn't turn the Key to Position (1) and I also couldn't get the Key out!

Instead of smashing the Steering Lock or even taking the Dash to Bits, as I've seen on many YouTube Videos

I decided to take an entirely different approach where from Start to Finish with the Key Stuck in the Lock and unable to be Turned

It only took THREE MINUTES to remove the Ignition Barrel, without dismantling anything at all!

Needless to say I'm still in Shock at just how easy it was, as it would seem that some of these Shops are keeping This Little Known SECRET To Themselves, as the Charge for doing this job is around £500!

As for the Problem with your Exhaust, what I do is similar to what Greg has said, where the most important thing is to push the Rear Muffler up into their Tunnels and then Support them so they cannot move and then once having done so move the Hoops that go right through the Cage, as far away from the Calipers as you can and then tighten up the Exhaust Pipe at each end of those Hooped Pipes

Including the rest of the Exhaust and then also do the same with the Rear Mufflers in their Tunnels

Then! and this is where 'The Magic Happens' once you remove the support from the Rear Mufflers (That you used to keep them pushed up in there Tunnels) where you also Twisted them to get them pushed up in their Tunnels as High as they would go

Once the Supports have been removed, the Mufflers up in the Tunnels will try and drop down and in doing so will act as a Counter Balance to help to keep those Hooped Pipes well away from the Calipers

And don't forget those Hooped Pipes, also have a Hanger inside the Cage

Good Luck

Alex

 

Thank you Alex, thank you Greg... I'm on it.

Good braining with the key & lock, OB... It's the kinda stuff that keeps it interesting!

Greg, I like your idea about the smaller silencers. While doing this last job the first thing I did was remove the silencers. The XKR came with substantial modifications to the exhaust, so my tolerance for exhaust note has become, let's just say, broader, lol
I started the car without the rear most silencers and I actually liked the sound. Here, they have a whole range of products for exhaust LOUDENING (which I think needs to be regulated - and I'm no fan of regulation) like glass packs and, I can't remember the names of all of them. Anyways, if I can find (in the future) a product that will manage noise rightly, and I can get the proper hooks for the rear most hangers welded to them, perhaps.

For now,,, I'm picking up what y'all are putting down. I have some 2 inch clamps the AMAZON should deliver today, and I will have a go at it the way y'all describe... Back UNDER, is in my future. I DO have a stellar new jack to play with so,,, play time 🤣

Ohhhhhhhhhhh, my life. I should just put a mattress under the car. An inflatable???

 

Hi Jay

It could be on your XK8 that you may have got upgraded Silencers that were made by Admesh
Also have a look at To The Garage on YouTube as this Guy 'John' loves his XK8 as much as we love our XJS and has done a whole series of Videos that I found mega interesting!

 

I got ya Man, I got ya. I'll check it out...

For anyone still paying attention to this ol thread, Q...?

I finallllly have an EBrake since working on this thing and dropping the rear end. Things seem great by the way after a couple of short runs. No rattles, no squeaks, not tapping exhaust (rags and tightening methods worked perfectly, thank y'all!) But here's the thing.

I have an EBrake now. Will hold the car fixed in gear, revs about 650-675. But will not hold the car on any kind of an incline. I went to do the final adjustments today at the pull handle. I found two 9/16ths bolts and a long sleeve on the cable. Is the sleeve threaded? No matter what I did I could NOT get a good turn on the thing. It's like EVERYTHING spins. Is there a secret to tightening the cable inside of the car? Needing help here.

 

Hi Jay

The Handbrake Cable Adjuster is behind the Back Seat (Drivers Side on a UK Car) so before you start you need to have that Seat as far Forward as you can get it, as the Handbrake Cable Adjuster is not only behind that seat but also Set into the Inner Sill, making it very, very Awkward to get to and Adjust, as the Threaded Part of the Cable has a Nut on the End plus another Nut that is the 'Lock Nut'

So wind the 'Lock Nut' out of the way to begin with and make sure the 'Fly Off' Handbrake Ratchet is at rest in the Down Position

Having done that and found a Spanner the Perfect Size for that Adjustment Nut, you are going to need the Patience of a Saint! as you slowly turn that Nut, one face at a time to adjust the Tension on that Handbrake Cable Adjuster, which most often does take a long time and is an awkward little job if ever there was one!

While doing this Adjustment, try and avoid the Temptation to pull the Handbrake Lever up Too High to Check the Tension, as if it jumps over the Ratchet, then you could have a problem on your hands!

Its a very Slow Frustrating Job and so as long as you keep that in mind you will get there

Good Luck

Alex

 

Thank you, Alex! Good Morning 🌞

I was afraid you were going to say something like that. I know you're right about the pita and saintly patience, lol... Oh man. I was tempted to remove the seat. Looks as though my auto adjusters are not working - maybe in time? I was ready to remove the seat. Then thought, nah.

Thing is I never use the hand brake. At the same time, when on an incline (and there are some) I don't LIKE the way the transmission shifts out of park, when there is significant vehicle weight on the trans and pawl (I think that's the right word)... Anyways,,,

In my broken brain I've gotten to the point where I want things to WORK,,, because they should, lol. And I feel less and more "unsettled" knowing that something is "wrong" in these cars, lol. How did this happen to me, hahahaha...

My issue is, as I turn the adjustment nut, the entire threaded shaft spins - making tightening difficult if not impossible. The work space is SUPER small. I think maybe if I get it nice and clean (as possible) I can jab a screwdriver or something down in there - farthest away from where the nut would ever travel, and PIN the threaded shaft in place while I get a few spins on the nut. We shall see. It's not a life or death situation at all...

Thank you for the details!

 

Hi Jay

Just grip the Threaded part with some Long Nose Pliers or Locking Pliers (protected with a piece of cloth) and give the rest of the Threaded Part a Spray with some WD

Ideally you want those nuts so loose that you are able to turn them with your Fingers and then you can give the Locking Nut a final twist with a Spanner

 

Got ya! Back at it... And believe me,,, I'm not stressing this so much. Just want to get it working if it's possible.