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Greetings,
I could use a little bit of help in diagnosing a new issue that has come up since storing our 94' xjs over the winter.
It is has been a (mostly) wonderfully & reliable 1994 XJS 4.0 (now with only 66K original miles)-
Upon springtime starting to arrive, I began the process of going over the vehicle since being stored (indoors/climate controlled).
First off, the battery (needed to be replaced), which I did prior to starting the vehicle for the first time this year.
Everything came to life as it should, motor started right up and sounds great, no other noticeable issue than the ABS warning lamp question I have for you here.
Upon starting the car, all warning lamps cycle through as normal, however the amber Red BRAKE light stayed on several seconds longer than normal and the Amber ABS lamp does not turn off...
I tried the pumping of the brakes 25+ times with the ignition off as referenced in several other Threads, and no change -
Upon restarting the car, the Red BRAKE lamp stays on a bit longer (aprox 10-12 seconds), where it used to be about 2-3 seconds.
The Amber ABS indicator stays lit constantly.
There are no fluid leaks visible anywhere, fluid reservoir is at proper level, brake pedal has good resistance (pressure) with no difference noted from last year.
Just a bit of rolling up and down the driveway and there is no noticeable difference in braking other than the ABS light stays illuminated.
Reluctant to drive it much more than that, but may venture out to the quieter side streets & see if I notice a difference as 30mph down to 0mph.
Would really appreciate any thoughts on the matter as it is approaching the time of year where we really enjoy getting out on the highway with it!
Thanks in advance! Amber ANTI-LOCK warning lamp will not go out Open Bonnet from L.H. side Top front of reservoir and connections Right side of reservoir and abs module Another right side view of abs mod. close up of abs mod. Accumulator pump view looking forward Accumulator pump view looking down from above Springtime! Hopefully motoring safely soon...
As a quick update to my earlier post, I decided to go for a test drive around the side streets in my neighborhood. Everything seemed normal with the brake system, so I ventured out into the country for a little higher-speed brake testing. All systems preformed as well as last season (no notable issues other than the Amber ABS warning lamp not turning off).
After about 15 miles of getting up to highway speeds and applying a variety of light, moderate and heavy braking situation -still no change in brake performance.
(Meaning, no pulling right or left, no locking up, no fading under heavy pedal pressure, etc) All seems good, except the ABS warning light stays on...
Upon returning home, I shut off the motor and tried the 25-30 rapid brake pedal pumps - started her back up and Voila - ABS warning lamp goes out after about
10 seconds and the Red Brake light which initially stayed on a bit longer, went out immediately (as it always did prior to this).
My suspicion is the Accumulator sphere is not holding pressure as it once did. But, no visual signs of leakage anywhere near it or the pump itself?
Hope this addendum is helpful with any further thoughts on what may be the root cause and what practical solutions may have been found by others.
If the accumulator is not holding pressure, you will notice it in 2 ways:
- the abs pump will take longer to run when you first start the car in the morning
- the abs pump will be cutting in more frequently when you're driving the car and using the brakes.
If you've had the light stuck on, it seems that it would have thrown fault codes. So performing the abs blink test will identify which code has been generated. I'd strongly suggest your run the test even if the problem seems to have gone for now.
If the accumulator is not holding pressure, you will notice it in 2 ways:
- the abs pump will take longer to run when you first start the car in the morning
- the abs pump will be cutting in more frequently when you're driving the car and using the brakes.
If you've had the light stuck on, it seems that it would have thrown fault codes. So performing the abs blink test will identify which code has been generated. I'd strongly suggest your run the test even if the problem seems to have gone for now.
Good luck
Paul
Thanks Paul!
I am uploading some fresh pictures of what is shown on the dash since the problem seems to have resolved itself for the moment.
Also, if you have any recommendations as to how to get the trip computer to give any diagnostic info, it would be much appreciated.
"Check Engine" briefly appears, as it always has & the goes away almost instantly.
Not seeing where I can get it to display anything other than the fuel & mileage & clodk data.
Chuck 1) Ignition Off - 2) Ignition ON- "Check Engine" shows above the time very briefly & goes away. 3) Ignition ON - starter not engaged. 4) Ignition ON - Car Started - briefly displays these brake system indicators. 5) Ignition ON- car running at idle - Sequentially Park Brake indicator goes out first, Brake 2nd and Anti-Lock 3rd, and all are staying off as of this update.
If the accumulator is not holding pressure, you will notice it in 2 ways:
- the abs pump will take longer to run when you first start the car in the morning
- the abs pump will be cutting in more frequently when you're driving the car and using the brakes.
If you've had the light stuck on, it seems that it would have thrown fault codes. So performing the abs blink test will identify which code has been generated. I'd strongly suggest your run the test even if the problem seems to have gone for now.
Good luck
Paul
Also, please forgive my incompetence here, but I'm not at all certain of what, where or how to do the "blink test" - thought perhaps it would give me a code on the trip computer or flash the lights on the dash of whatever module had an issue like many older non-OBDII cars did back then?
In any case, I'm probably way off base so if there is any "How To" link on this topic would also be much appreciated.
Regards again!
Chuck
There are 2 main ways of assessing the faults on a Teves ABS system (particularly the electrical side). The first is a blink test that you perform at the ABS ECM. The second is a series of 32 diagnostic tests that you can run. I'll dig out both routines and post them tomorrow for you. (unless someone else gets here first!)
If everything's back to Normal, then I would be very inclined to leave well alone, especially since your ABS Light appears to go out so quickly, which seems to rule out the need for a New Black Ball Accumulator
Where my thoughts are definitely heading the way of 'If it ain't broke don't fix it!'
If everything's back to Normal, then I would be very inclined to leave well alone, especially since your ABS Light appears to go out so quickly, which seems to rule out the need for a New Black Ball Accumulator
Where my thoughts are definitely heading the way of 'If it ain't broke don't fix it!'
Very nice Car BTW especially with that Plate!
Thanks much for your thoughts and very kind words!
The XJS was my late wife Cheri's dream car, and she absolutely loved Jaguars and Martini's (hence the plate)!
What you see is still all 100% original, paint, chrome, leather, even the top is still in great shape. For the record it is "The Garage Queen" around here.
We purchased it used from a private seller in 1998 as an anniversary gift to each other, but it was always kind of her's if you know what I mean.
We used to show it back in the day with the Illinois Jag Club, it always ranked pretty highly in the driven category.
She passed away at age 54 in 2012, of auto-immune complications from leukemia. Of the many things we had that have come and gone since then,
I just cannot bring myself to let go of her beloved XJS! Hopefully with a little TLC it will out-live me and be passed on to our kids to care for and enjoy.
Best regards,
Chuck
In response to Paul,
I let it sit yesterday afternoon and overnight, started it up this morning and all warning lamps turned off, sequentially as they should and ABS Lamp is not intermittently coming back on (so far). ABS / Accumulator pump ran for a total of 25 seconds, from turn of the ignition key until it disengaged.
So far the pump is not running intermittently either, but will monitor it closely as I drive some more.
I'm not convinced the problem is solved yet, so taking a wait and see with a very watchful eye and ear approach.
Would still appreciate seeing your Blink test and Diagnostics links as time allows...
Thanks again for the advice!
Chuck
The 25 sec charge from rest is fine (it depends how much was discharged through braking just before you last turned off the ignition). And just to remind you, the pump WILL periodically kick in whilst driving as the pressure is discharged through braking. It just depends how often it is happening.
Here are the docs for the blink test and diagnostic routines. The blink test is easy to run and you should do it anyway as you probably have at least one fault code stored which needs to be cleared from when the light was on.
The 25 sec charge from rest is fine (it depends how much was discharged through braking just before you last turned off the ignition). And just to remind you, the pump WILL periodically kick in whilst driving as the pressure is discharged through braking. It just depends how often it is happening.
Here are the docs for the blink test and diagnostic routines. The blink test is easy to run and you should do it anyway as you probably have at least one fault code stored which needs to be cleared from when the light was on.
Hope that all helps
Cheers
Paul
Paul,
Thanks again for your valuable insight and the documentation on the blink codes and diagnostics!
If I come up with anything beneficial to the forum as a result of my further investigation, I'll pass along my findings.
Best regards,
Chuck