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1st, I do not know a thing about jaguars, and that’s a problem. I just inherited a two door 1996 xjs. It is a speed manual, inline 6. The brain in unhooked??? And it has been sitting for years. I bought the $100 book off the internet, and even with that I can not figure out how to drop the tank to remove the old fuel. I am afraid to jack the car up high enough to remove the tank. On internet searches it says the rear suspension will come out of the “grommets”. I am at lose. This car is nice looking inside and out. If I can not figure out how to get it started I’m going to part it out. It is a one owner 76,000 miles and I have all the import paperwork. I would prefer to drive it. But I don’t know where to begin.
Old fuel can’t be siphoned out? There has to be an easier way for you to get that old fuel out. Dropping the tank is a pain, and if you’re dead set on doing that, make sure you have a new fuel pump while you’re there.
Old fuel can’t be siphoned out? There has to be an easier way for you to get that old fuel out. Dropping the tank is a pain, and if you’re dead set on doing that, make sure you have a new fuel pump while you’re there.
my dad had the car. I’m not sure where he got it. But he was told you could not siphon the fuel out of the tank that there was a filter or sensor or something that will be damaged by siphoning the fuel. I was wondering the same thing. Also it is not the main computer that has been on hooked as I had said in my initial post, but rather the security system in the car has been unhooked for some reason. I was looking through the temple papers which came with the car, the car is one of 30 that was imported and 1993 it has a six speed transmission in it. And according to them for paperwork they only imported 30 cars with that transmission. I do not know if that is significant or not. Before this I mainly work on 1950s and 60s Chevys and fords.
You cannot drop the tank. It has to be removed from the boot (trunk). I suggest you download the Great Palm's book from Jaglovers, it is free, and start reading that. Your car has the later fuel pump in tank system, so posters here familiar with that type will be able to suggest how to remove the old fuel.
Spoiler alert: it’s definitely not a 1996, unless someone put in front bumpers off of a 92?
I made a correction it is a 93. 1of 30 according to the important paperwork. I got it from the original owner, has all the import and purchase paperwork and has 76000 miles on it. Online 6 and 5 or 6 speed.
A manual transmission XJS is very much worth saving.
I had a 1992 XJS which would have the same fuel tank setup as the 93. I'm not aware of any sensor or other issue that would prevent siphoning the fuel out. If you want to remove the old fuel before trying to start her up, then I'd siphon out as much as you can through the fuel filler neck to start with.
Then to get the rest out, you can get access to the tank from the boot/trunk. There is a fuel level sender on the rear of the tank that can be removed, giving you access to the inside of the tank. When you loosen the locking ring on the fuel sender you want to use something that won't cause a spark. I used a rubber mallet and a small length of wood to tap it loose.
Siphon the rest out through that access hole and take a look at the inside to gauge the condition of the tank.
Put down plenty of old towels, rags in the floor of the trunk that you can throw away in case of any spillage. You'll also want to remove and replace the fuel filter. Once removed, dump out the contents to see what comes out.
The filter is located underneath the car, on the driver's side, a little bit forward of the rear wheel and about 8" inboard.
As 'Greg' was saying 1996 Six Cylinder XJS has an In-tank Fuel Pump
You cannot drop the Fuel Tank as it is behind a Steel Baffle and once the Baffle has been removed
Then you have to take off the Fuel Lines (PIA Job) and then pull the Tank out
If you're not mechanically minded then this can really be the 'Job from Hell' but definitely worth fitting a new fuel pump if you do pull the Tank out
And just in case the thought crossed your mind, you cannot drain the Fuel Tank by taking off the Fuel Pipes from the Tank as they are 'Self Sealing'
Have you considered trying to get her running first, as there could be many other problems to be met along the way, which depending on your budget
Could then possibly make her uneconomical for you to fix
I have worked on and fixed about every kind of domestic vehicle out there. Which for me is ford Chevy Dodge got the big three. I can work on diesel or gas engines, I just rebuilt the engine in my 57. Mechanically I’m not too worried about my ability to fix it. I am just unsure of how different this engine will be compared to others I’ve worked on. My experience with in-line six cylinder has been the 5.9 Cummings, which is a diesel, and the 235 in-line six cylinders from the 50s and early 60s. I did make a mistake on the year and my initial post it is a 1993. I plan on trying to get it running before I do anything else the original owner told me it was running fine when he parked it he simply got tired of it parked in his garage and bought a new car. He did not remember the security system being on hooked on it or why it was.
A manual transmission XJS is very much worth saving.
I had a 1992 XJS which would have the same fuel tank setup as the 93. I'm not aware of any sensor or other issue that would prevent siphoning the fuel out. If you want to remove the old fuel before trying to start her up, then I'd siphon out as much as you can through the fuel filler neck to start with.
Then to get the rest out, you can get access to the tank from the boot/trunk. There is a fuel level sender on the rear of the tank that can be removed, giving you access to the inside of the tank. When you loosen the locking ring on the fuel sender you want to use something that won't cause a spark. I used a rubber mallet and a small length of wood to tap it loose.
Siphon the rest out through that access hole and take a look at the inside to gauge the condition of the tank.
Put down plenty of old towels, rags in the floor of the trunk that you can throw away in case of any spillage. You'll also want to remove and replace the fuel filter. Once removed, dump out the contents to see what comes out.
The filter is located underneath the car, on the driver's side, a little bit forward of the rear wheel and about 8" inboard.
I bought a big Jaguar book that looks to me like a complete shop manuals for my old cars. That I am hoping you can help me with part of cleaning the tank in getting the rest of it going thank you for the information on how to drain the tank Wednesday the car will be at the house and I will start working on it. I will update this post along with many more questions I’m sure as I go through the car.
Drain the tank by disconnecting the fuel line under the hood, into a suitable container. Then jump the fuel pump relay. In a 92 V12, the fuel pump relay is behind the “hockey stick” panel in the trunk, on the passenger side, above the ECU. I don’t know about where it is on a six cylinder.
I cannot see any reason why you cannot Siphon the gas out of the Fuel Tank
The Photo's are of the Filler Cap of my 1995 XJS 4.0L Straight Six, which just has a Spring Flap on the Bottom of the Cap
I threaded a piece of Rope through, so you can see how a Siphon Tube would go
Filler Cap from a 1995 4.0L 6cyl XJS
Spring Loaded Flap on the Bottom
Rope to show how the Siphon Tube would pass through (if yours is the same?)
thank you for the pictures. I will start siphoning the fuel and I will replace the fuel filter. Do I need to run anything through the lines to make sure they are clear? If so, what would you recommend. Also is 87 octane fine or should I use 91?
Drain the tank by disconnecting the fuel line under the hood, into a suitable container. Then jump the fuel pump relay. In a 92 V12, the fuel pump relay is behind the “hockey stick” panel in the trunk, on the passenger side, above the ECU. I don’t know about where it is on a six cylinder.
I would assume it’s the same. If the security system is unhooked will it prevent it from running?
Changing the (Real Fuel Filter) is not gonna be as easy as you think, assuming that your 4.0L Straight Six has an In-Tank Fuel Pump
Which must be established and which I believe She has
Because the Fuel Filter and the Pump are all integral in one unit, so if you want to change the Filter then you also have to Change the Pump
And what is more it doesn't matter how good a Mechanic you are, as this Job is a King Size PIA!
So where do we Start?
One way or another all the Gas will have to come out, with no reason that I can see as to why it cannot be Siphoned
Then the Fuel Lines need to be disconnected, which requires a Special Tool as they have to be Pushed and Twisted from underneath the Car (Grant has a Pic I believe?)
As for me I made one out of a Piece of Stiff Plastic Pipe with a Groove cut in it just wide enough for the Fuel Pipe but not for the Push and Twist Fitting on the end
Another problem being that these Fuel Pipes and Fittings are a PIA to get to, as the IRS Cage is right in the way
The Fuel Pipes are Self Sealing One for Flow and One for the Return and so they might be difficult to clean out and I don't know because I didn't do that
The Fuel Tank on my 4.0L Convertible is behind a Steel Baffle in the Boot/Trunk and everything has to come out to get it out
Battery Box/Trim and in my case the Hydraulics for the Soft Top and even the CD Changer as well as the Boot/Trunk Stays and Brackets
Once the Steel Baffle is out of the Car, then you should be able to see the Fuel Tank where the only thing that holds it in are those Fuel Pipes!
(which you have previously undone from underneath the Car)
But apart from that the Fuel Tank is 'Jammed in' with wedges of Rubber and its jammed in really tight, so tight that you will think that they Welded it in!
Next Fill the Boot/Trunk with Blocks of Wood or Old Books or whatever, so the Fuel Tank doesn't drop down when you Pull it back
But before you can pull it back you have to remove the Filler Cap and the Breather Pipes, which of course is not gonna be as easy as it looks
Because you need to get the Rubber Fuel Cap to Fuel Tank Sealing Collar off and this is another King Size PIA! because it is going to fight you all the way!
Don't even be tempted to cut it through with the Bread Knife, as it could cost you 'Megabucks' to replace
One that job is out of the way and assuming that you haven't decided to 'end it all'
Then you can pull the Fuel Tank back and remove the locking ring on the Top with a Rubber Hammer and a Piece of Hardwood as a 'drift' (You do not want any Sparks or its game over!)
Then when you look in through the Top, you can see the Fuel Pump with its 'T' Shaped Filter on the end
The Fuel Pump on mine is held in with one Bolt but again you need to be careful that you don't drop the Spanner and Cause any Sparks
I think you are meant to use a Brass Spanner or one thats non metallic, which of course we've all got (Lol)
Then you can take out the Fuel Pump complete with its Fuel Filter and then replace the whole thing with a New One
No need to Spend 'Megabucks' you can get a Generic one for a Few Dollars off the 'Bay'
And then put it all back together, they way that you took it apart
Then get a big bottle of JD and book yourself a Holiday somewhere Warm with a Beach!
As for Gas I only use 99 Octane, it never really pays to use the Cheap Stuff 'Junk Food for Cars'
Fuel Tank with the In-Tank Pump from my 4.0L XJS Straight Six (note fuel filter on the end)
The other Pump is from a V12 (Pre-Facelift) which unlike an In-Tank Fuel Pump can be replaced in an Hour!
Self Sealing Connectors for the Fuel Pipes
In-Tank Fuel Pump with Filter
Last edited by orangeblossom; 04-24-2018 at 01:56 AM.
04-22-2018, 02:37 PM
1996 XJS
