Warren
Assuming you are discussing gearbox oil cooling, I have no experience of this type of oil cooler, but I am a bit sceptical of whether they really do much cooling. As I too do not like in-rad ATF cooling, on Grant's advice I fitted a cooler like the one in the attached photo, sited behind the bumper in already dirty air, that works brilliantly.
The real point I would be cautious about, is that you seem to plan to mount the cooler right across the airflow to the rad stack. I am more than hesitant to offer you any advice as I stand in awe of what you are doing, but I really think this location is a bad idea. I have conclusively proved that clean uninterrupted airflow to the rad stack is the single most crucial thing to achieve in cooling the V12, and I think putting a large dirty-air-creating item in front of the only decent clean airpath that there is on our cars, is best avoided.
Just my opinion.
Greg

 

I was planning to put it under that panel. It will not go on top because of the TWR bar mounts. If it will fit on the transmission mount I'll put it there. One benefit of this type is the additional fluid it contains.

I read an article in HOTROD mag where they did back to back testing with a deep finned pan that dropped trans temp 10°.

I like the way you have mounted that cooler. I might look to see if one will fit. I might get a small one there. The TWR bar cover sits further back under the shelf so limits space there.

The 4L60e has a built in temperature sensor so the TCU can lock the TC if trans temp gets too high. This will allow me to monitor trans temp.

 

I got a 700r4 hydraulic, know where I got my bracket if you're interested

 

I was looking at the space I have to put a cooler like Gregs, but with the TWR bar I have 4" between the AC condenser and fiberglass bar.

So I decided to mount the heatsink unit behind the bumper. I know its not in a direct path of air flow but the heatsink effect will transfer into the aluminium bumper bar, also there will air flow from the wash bouncing off the AC condenser. I can monitor trans temperature via the TCU.

When I do the engine swap I am planning on replacing the engine oil cooler and at this point will re-do all the cooling and install a parallel condenser.

 

Installed the transmission for the 20th time. When you have no kit and have to fabricate everything from scratch it takes way longer. looking on the bright side I can have the tranny out of the car in less than 15min.

The dip stick ended up being the biggest PITA. I ordered and installed one of those braided flexible ones and this worked ok. I still need to fabricate a bracket for the top.

Top bolts were a little difficult but not has herd as I expected.



In for the last time before I pull the engine.

 

A couple of pics of the transmission mount incase someone wants to make one.

 

Don't need these anymore.

Vacuum pipe for the TH400



Will need to cap this off.



Kickdown switch wire, don't need this either.

 

I decided it was a good idea to locate the fuses for the Transmission and TCU in the Jaguar main fuse box under the steering wheel (RHD car).

I removed the fuse box and crimped spade terminals on the wires that pushed into the fuse box

Fuses Labeled



Transmission relay



Half the fuse box done





Manual, Normal, Sport Mode switch

 

lookin good Warron

 

Nothing ever goes exactly to plan and as I did not have a simulator so I needed to plug the TCU into the transmission and start the car to test all its functions.



Well the TCU would not read the selector position switches or the load input signal (TPS).


Out with the TCU. Took me about 20 minutes to find ALL the zener diodes in these input circuits around the wrong way. Surely I could not have made such a simple mistake so I went back to the build instructions and sure enough the instruction said to put the Cathode (banded end) towards the heatsink, which is exactly as I installed them, so not my error but an error in the documentation, turned all the zeners around and VOILA I now have a working transmission.


These little buggers were all the wrong way around.








After about 20-30 runs up the road I now have the transmission shifting pretty good. Everything seems to work even kickdown. Lucky the road infront of my house is 100km/h (not the one you can see in the pic that's our access road) so it allowed me to run at highway speeds.


I still have some fine tuning and to setup the second shift table but it seems pretty good as it is. Now onto the engine build.....






.

 

Now that is IMPRESSIVE, Warrjon. I mean , how on earth did you track it down? not that I will understand your reply!
Greg

 

All I can say is WOW!!!!


Carl

 

Simple answer is nearly 40 years experience repairing electronics.

If you look at the pic of the TCU you will see I cut a leg of one of the diodes, this is fault find the Warren way.

 

I plan to put my car on historic rego when I get ti back on the road and to do this I need a roadworthy (RWC), ATM it would fail RWC due to no transmission dust cover, the rules state you must not be able to get fingers into the flywheel.

So I cut up the TH400 and 4L60 dust covers, pieced them together to fit the engine. The Marelli engine has an aluminium bracket in place of the old steel one to hold the engine speed sensor, there was no way the 4L60 dust cover would fit.

I made the buck and took a fibreglass impression. I still need to clean it up smooth it off and paint.

 

I'm very interested in your swap, but unfortunately your pictures aren't view-able any longer.
Hey Ron, Gary's made my driveshaft for the S-Type JagRod I'm building..haha. I went with steel, should have gone aluminum.

 

The pics were hosted on Photobucket and when they stopped free hosting and wanted a Kings ransom it broke millions of photos like mine on forum sites. To make matters worse I can not go back and edit my posts to insert the pics.

Most of the relevant photos are here

Jaguar XJS Restoration : XJS V12 4L60e Conversion