Hi Guys,

Looking for some advice! Just collected this 1989 XJS V12 which has been dry stored and not turned a key since roughly 2002, I haven't tried to turn it over at all due to not knowing condition of engine so was looking for some advice of anything to look into before I turn her over?

I have ordered a new plugs, new distribution cap, new ht leads, oil, oil filter and coolant and plan to drain and re fill fuel before I attempt to turnover.

The car itself is a 1989 with 79K miles and I have no service history all I know is that it is a 2 owner car and has been off the road since 2002.

Is there anyway to access service history and original spec of the car through the chassis plate?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am a complete Jaguar novice!

 

Nice Jag

After 18 years I'd be tempted to oil the cylinders before attempting to run the engine. Opinions vary on this step but, what the heck, since you're planning on removing the spark plugs anyway, it can't hurt. Plus, with the plugs out you'll be able to spin the engine very easily to build oil pressure before the engine fires

I'd add a new fuel filter to the shopping list

After you get it started there are other important things to do....like replace all fuel hoses.

If you drain the coolant you'll have to perform a bleed procedure. We can help you with that. It is very important. Actually, you might wanna wait on the new coolant, as I can virtually promise the cooling system will need lots of other repairs.

Just see if you can make it start and run. Then we can move on to the other must-do items.

Lots of quirks to an XJS V12 but they're manageable.

Cheers
DD

 

Man that body looks in great condition. Lot better than mine that's for sure.

You are about to go down the rabbit hole. Dont get fustrated. Lots of great advice on these forums.

Welcome

 

The list is long, but getting started should be easy-ish. I second the lubricating cylinders bit, expect rust in coolant system (professional flush would help).

coolant and fuel lines...ALL of them will need to be done. Again not difficult. Your Idle Air valve might be seized, you'll know if it is! Filters yes fresh oil after running a cleaner - LiquiMoly makes great oil flush products but 2L of trans fluid idleing for an hour or so does wonders to.

You'll likely have clogged swirl tank/filter and injector filter baskets clogged. Expect the CPS sensor to not work...after 18 yrs its going to fail or cut out after engine is warm.

I could go on and on but at least your car is in the same situation mine was - 89 and dry storage for over 15 yrs. I can help lol... Wouldnt hurt to blast the brake calipers with wd40 etc to shake off the crust, electrical contact cleaner and a tooth brush for every engine plug.

 

Main thing you will need is deep pockets. Lol

 

Thanks for all the advice guys, planning on starting the process tomorrow, I will let you all know how I get on!

 

You need to be willing to work and check around for parts. Don’t buy everything from one place. Moss Motors Rock Auto, Terry’s Jag. Plus a few others I can’t think of right now. prices for items vary by over. 200% plus you may search all over to find everything you need.
Mechanically that engine trans rear end and suspension are way over built. it’s extremely doubtful they will need replacement. But you may have rotted suspension rubber. Or broken rubber engine mounts. none of the vacuum lines can be trusted ( including the one going to the ECM. The fuel injection absolutely needs rubber replacement. All the lines and hoses over each injector. Unless you relish the idea of your car in flames.
Also replace the coolant hoses heater hoses.

A couple of points, yes put oil in the cylinders. But those big bearings probably have dried out as well. You can get oil there two ways.
The lazy mans and somewhat risky but I’ve done it a number of times successfully is replace the oil filter with a new one filled with oil. With spark plugs out crank it over until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Warning you have a lot of cranking to do because the oil lines will have drained completely and the old oil probably some minor acid etching of the bearing surface. There is a lot of oil lines and passageways to fill before pressure can build.
The hard way ( but much better) is to remove the oil pressure sending unit and pump oil in that way. I built my own rig to do so and use air pressure to send the oil all over the engine.
While we are at it please realize that the oil cooler and a lot of lines are filled with old oil. So once the car is running, don’t drive it too far before you change the oil. I never go over 50 miles and usually after my first trip to the gas station to fill up the gas tank.