Hey guys,

I'm at my AC compressor again and a question popped into mind: are the current NEW hoses and pipes prepared for R134a connectors? Before someone says ro take R12: R12 is NOT available in Europe (legally) anymore. So I must take R134a.

The R134a connectors used here are those snap/clip on ones. Are the new pipes already fitted with the correct R134a connectors or will I have to have them welded?

Cheers

Damien

 

I haven't done it yet, but RS24 should be a direct replacement for R12

RS-24 Refrigerant, R12 Replacement

 

Here, Here!

Air Conditioning ? The R134a conversion myth - XJS & XJ from KWE Cars

 

R410a is a drop in but out of question.

 

Do you mean the fill ports? As opposed to the ways of joining hoses together? I've always made any hoses I need, the fittings are not expensive. The only expensive part is buying the proper crimp tool, but I've found it worth it if I'm doing any quantity of AC work.

There are alternatives to R134, you just need the gauges and charge the AC yourself. Again, not expensive and worthwhile if you intend to do any amount of AC work.

 

Yeah, I meant the filling connections...

I could make my own ones, just that my piping is in really bad condition. I expect some possible pin holes and don't fancy cursing

I can get free R13ra charges and Germany has some very strict laws regarding freons. Personal bottles are illegal, with possible jail/prison sentences if caught with one. That is why I want to keep with R134a. Just the connections to fill need to be changed...

 

If all you need to do is change the fill ports, you can get ones designed for conversion that just screw onto the old R12 threads.

See here: https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/?ic=4338

 

Wouldn't that make the connection too high? I mean, they are short stubs so making it longer might cause co tat with the bonnet or insulation...

 

It's close, but it works. I've done it. Although I generally keep the R12 fittings and use a non freon refrigerant like Duracool. Also has the advantages of running at much lower pressures that R134 and gives better cooling.

I found the high side pressures with R134 were in the 250-275psi range, with Duracool I never go over 150 psi. Low side is a bit lower too, typically in the 15-20 psi range instead of 30-40 psi. The system works with about 1/3 of the amount of refrigerant, for example if it originally needed 3 lbs of R12, it will take 1 lb of Duracool.

With R134 I could never get my vent temperatures below about 8-9C. With Duracool I could get it to freezing ( which you don't want to do.) I could basically get it as cold as I wanted.

 

Never heard of duracool, so I guess it isn't available here. Sounds interesting though!

 

It's basically a mixture of 78% propane and 22% iso-butane. Otherwise known as a blend of R290 and R600a. I make my own. R436a is somewhat close, but has more iso-butane.

 

So basically LPG? Just at a different percentage... My XJ8 runs on propane/butane (40:60/60:40 depending on season)

 

Sort of - there is quite a difference in AC performance between n-butane and iso-butane. You want the iso-butane. The iso works to bring down pressures, while the propane moves the bulk of the heat. Straight propane would work, but would run at higher system pressures.

Obviously, lower pressures are less stress on the hoses and other components, plus it takes less power to run the compressor if it is operating at a lower pressure. The other advantage is the oil is completely micisible in the propane/butane, so it gets carried through the system better. With R134 the oil stays separate and gets pushed around the system as slugs of liquid and doesn't lubricate as well. If you're converting from an R12 system, then you don't need to change oil.

 

Daim, l Just used the screw on conversion fittings and removed the fittings after servicing. The original shrader valve stays in place so on with a cap and you're done.

 

Baxtor, you're awesome! Thanks!

 

When I converted mine to R134a the AC guy made new hoses, I needed new ones anyway. He was telling me the old hoses can leak R134a over time as the gas much thinner than R12. New O rings too.

Filling the AC guy did what Bax did and used a adapter.

 

Hmm, issue is, the silencer cylinder on the compressor is prepped for R12. I think I'll go with Baxtor's suggestion. Should the new hoses be R12 connections, I'll use Adapters and remove them again.

Btw., the R134a isn't a problem for the gaskets. It is the oil. R12 has a different oil (mineral oil base) as opposed to the PAG oil required. The A6 also needs a very thick oil, like the V12, being a PAG150. Some PAG150 oils have no problem with the old seals...

 

Fenair is a good firm to get info and hoses made not over expensive and very knowledgeable regarding xjs jags

 

Hi rgp,


Do you have contact details for them - I couldn't find on the internet.


Thanks,
LeeP

 

there at classic car air conditioning machinery air conditioning agri and truck a/c