XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Is Rtv good enough

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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:20 AM
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Default Is Rtv good enough

While I have the diff out and on the bench I will replace the main gasket at the back of the housing. The biggest one that seals the oil in or not if that makes sense. Anyhow is rtv silicon acceptable or does it need a proper gasket. Thanks lads. Ps powerlock 2.88 Salisbury .
 

Last edited by brinny; Jan 29, 2018 at 05:24 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:29 AM
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RTV will do it fine, as long as the surfaces are 100% clean and grease free. Mine has had RTV for 17 years and all OK. Grant will chime in, but he usually recommends just tightening a touch for a couple of hours and them another turn and that's it.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 06:04 AM
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+1.

Diff out of car is easier.

Greg has mentioned the surfaces CLEAN, and that is a must.

A bead of RTV ensuring that there is a circle of RTV at each hole. Then mount the cover, and fit the bolts JUST ENOUGH to get the "squish" evenly around the edge.

Next morning, tighten the bolts 1/2 turn, and thats it.

The RTV basically "makes a gasket" and it needs time to do that, and the temptation to tighten too early will squash the RTV out of the joint, and oil will leak.

My V12 engine is sealed with RTV only, except the head gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets, and the drip tray is no longer employed.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 07:23 AM
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Lol. Thank you both. Is that really tight enough?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 07:38 AM
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Yep.

The RTV is the seal, and has stuck the plate overnight, and that 1/2 turn is just to add some extra tension.

I use 2 flats of the the head on the trans pan bolts, thats all it needs, and NO gasket here either.

If you do not pay attention, and there is a smear of oil, or a finger print, etc, then it will NOT seal and will leak, 100%.

The first time is the scariest, but after that it is simple.
 

Last edited by Grant Francis; Jan 30, 2018 at 03:03 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 07:57 AM
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RTV is OK but the correct gasket is 5$ and available at your local auto parts store. Just get a gasket for a Dana 44. For a steel cover use a gasket and use an Anaerobic sealer for machined alu cover.

https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/
These days Many manufactures just use anaerobic gasket sealer on machined mating surface, like a machined Alu diff cover mating to a machined diff housing. Years ago it was common to use black RTV on stamped steel covers because they tended to not be perfectly flat like a machined alu cover. When I see RTV bulbous and dried ozzing out of covers, it's a red flag for me.

In any case a leaking diff cover is the easiest to remedy, these diffs also tend to leak from the pinion seal and stub axles.
 

Last edited by icsamerica; Jan 29, 2018 at 09:17 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 08:40 AM
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Everyone has their favorite method.

I always use a gasket when one is readily available...and I'm hard-pressed to remember having to search for one!

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 11:51 AM
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I've used RTV in various places. Clean surfaces are a "must".
I follow the "a little dab will do you" adage.


The exhaust manifolds on my LT1 are sealed that way. High temp, sensor safe. So far just fine. At least 11 years of leak free service.


For any tin cover, the surface around the holes is likely to be deformed. A few taps with a hammer and dolly flattens the tin and assures a seal.


In my past, I've used gasket material and cut out more than a few.
Those olds tech methods still work.


Carl
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 01:41 PM
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I don't like RTV because of the thickness of the bead, and the need to re-tighten afterwards. If I'm not using a gasket, I much prefer Loctite Flange sealer, either #515 or 518. This is the application it was designed for, it's basically a zero thickness sealer and the part can be returned to service nearly immediately
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:23 PM
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Jaguar uses HYLOSIL on the diff cover for the 15HU onward but I don't remember if it is used on the older types like the Series III sedan and XJ-S.

bob
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 04:49 PM
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I generally avoid RTV because it makes such an ugly mess if you don't clean up after. Always have plenty of rolls of gasket material laying around, so I just usually make gaskets as needed.

Sometimes I'll use hylomar if the gasket is too big a pain to make.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
I don't like RTV because of the thickness of the bead, and the need to re-tighten afterwards. If I'm not using a gasket, I much prefer Loctite Flange sealer, either #515 or 518. This is the application it was designed for, it's basically a zero thickness sealer and the part can be returned to service nearly immediately
These are fine on two solid machined surfaces, but will not work on a pressed steel cover.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
These are fine on two solid machined surfaces, but will not work on a pressed steel cover.
I've used it on one and it worked! They specify maximum gap is 0.050"
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 09:49 AM
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The specs for both say a max gap of 0.25mm so that's ~0.010"
 
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 05:25 PM
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Job done as per Greg and grants advice with no drama. Many thanks to all who contributed to this topic. All very helpfull as always on here. Once again much obliged.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2018 | 04:07 AM
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Your shout, what we drinking????
 
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Old Jan 31, 2018 | 07:37 AM
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Lol
 
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