Is Rtv good enough
#1
Is Rtv good enough
While I have the diff out and on the bench I will replace the main gasket at the back of the housing. The biggest one that seals the oil in or not if that makes sense. Anyhow is rtv silicon acceptable or does it need a proper gasket. Thanks lads. Ps powerlock 2.88 Salisbury .
Last edited by brinny; 01-29-2018 at 05:24 AM.
#2
#3
+1.
Diff out of car is easier.
Greg has mentioned the surfaces CLEAN, and that is a must.
A bead of RTV ensuring that there is a circle of RTV at each hole. Then mount the cover, and fit the bolts JUST ENOUGH to get the "squish" evenly around the edge.
Next morning, tighten the bolts 1/2 turn, and thats it.
The RTV basically "makes a gasket" and it needs time to do that, and the temptation to tighten too early will squash the RTV out of the joint, and oil will leak.
My V12 engine is sealed with RTV only, except the head gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets, and the drip tray is no longer employed.
Diff out of car is easier.
Greg has mentioned the surfaces CLEAN, and that is a must.
A bead of RTV ensuring that there is a circle of RTV at each hole. Then mount the cover, and fit the bolts JUST ENOUGH to get the "squish" evenly around the edge.
Next morning, tighten the bolts 1/2 turn, and thats it.
The RTV basically "makes a gasket" and it needs time to do that, and the temptation to tighten too early will squash the RTV out of the joint, and oil will leak.
My V12 engine is sealed with RTV only, except the head gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets, and the drip tray is no longer employed.
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Daim (01-29-2018)
#5
Yep.
The RTV is the seal, and has stuck the plate overnight, and that 1/2 turn is just to add some extra tension.
I use 2 flats of the the head on the trans pan bolts, thats all it needs, and NO gasket here either.
If you do not pay attention, and there is a smear of oil, or a finger print, etc, then it will NOT seal and will leak, 100%.
The first time is the scariest, but after that it is simple.
The RTV is the seal, and has stuck the plate overnight, and that 1/2 turn is just to add some extra tension.
I use 2 flats of the the head on the trans pan bolts, thats all it needs, and NO gasket here either.
If you do not pay attention, and there is a smear of oil, or a finger print, etc, then it will NOT seal and will leak, 100%.
The first time is the scariest, but after that it is simple.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 01-30-2018 at 03:03 AM.
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Greg in France (01-29-2018)
#6
RTV is OK but the correct gasket is 5$ and available at your local auto parts store. Just get a gasket for a Dana 44. For a steel cover use a gasket and use an Anaerobic sealer for machined alu cover.
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/
These days Many manufactures just use anaerobic gasket sealer on machined mating surface, like a machined Alu diff cover mating to a machined diff housing. Years ago it was common to use black RTV on stamped steel covers because they tended to not be perfectly flat like a machined alu cover. When I see RTV bulbous and dried ozzing out of covers, it's a red flag for me.
In any case a leaking diff cover is the easiest to remedy, these diffs also tend to leak from the pinion seal and stub axles.
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/
These days Many manufactures just use anaerobic gasket sealer on machined mating surface, like a machined Alu diff cover mating to a machined diff housing. Years ago it was common to use black RTV on stamped steel covers because they tended to not be perfectly flat like a machined alu cover. When I see RTV bulbous and dried ozzing out of covers, it's a red flag for me.
In any case a leaking diff cover is the easiest to remedy, these diffs also tend to leak from the pinion seal and stub axles.
Last edited by icsamerica; 01-29-2018 at 09:17 AM.
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#8
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I've used RTV in various places. Clean surfaces are a "must".
I follow the "a little dab will do you" adage.
The exhaust manifolds on my LT1 are sealed that way. High temp, sensor safe. So far just fine. At least 11 years of leak free service.
For any tin cover, the surface around the holes is likely to be deformed. A few taps with a hammer and dolly flattens the tin and assures a seal.
In my past, I've used gasket material and cut out more than a few.
Those olds tech methods still work.
Carl
I follow the "a little dab will do you" adage.
The exhaust manifolds on my LT1 are sealed that way. High temp, sensor safe. So far just fine. At least 11 years of leak free service.
For any tin cover, the surface around the holes is likely to be deformed. A few taps with a hammer and dolly flattens the tin and assures a seal.
In my past, I've used gasket material and cut out more than a few.
Those olds tech methods still work.
Carl
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Greg in France (01-30-2018)
#9
I don't like RTV because of the thickness of the bead, and the need to re-tighten afterwards. If I'm not using a gasket, I much prefer Loctite Flange sealer, either #515 or 518. This is the application it was designed for, it's basically a zero thickness sealer and the part can be returned to service nearly immediately
#10
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#12
I don't like RTV because of the thickness of the bead, and the need to re-tighten afterwards. If I'm not using a gasket, I much prefer Loctite Flange sealer, either #515 or 518. This is the application it was designed for, it's basically a zero thickness sealer and the part can be returned to service nearly immediately
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Greg in France (01-30-2018)
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Greg in France (01-30-2018)
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