anyone ever had the rear control,LCA arms off?
#1
anyone ever had the rear control,LCA arms off?
1987 Jaguar XJSC,Dana44 rear,I dropped the rear for caliper,rotor,brakes replace & cleanup......I couldnt get the rotors off with the control arms on so I removed them & alot of washers,orings etc came out,I tried to keep them marked but they kept falling out so now they are eveywhere,my only choice is to seperate & divide them & try to figure where & how they go,is there another way of doing this? the pics I have seen wernt real good,looks like a roller bearing bushing is inside the control arm,Im talking about where the LCA bolts up to the center section
Thanks,brian
Thanks,brian
#2
the dance of a thousand washers.......
anyone who has done this work knows exactly whats your up against
you need some thick grease , a magnetic tool/screwdriver , and tons of patience
the washers will be equal to each side, and grease them up and push together and they will stick together, then with the magnetic tool, offer up the long bolt, push in far enough to then add the washers and push the bolt on through , and do the same when it comes out the other side of the diff bracket for the lower control arms , patience patience patience is the key to this one
good luck
BB
anyone who has done this work knows exactly whats your up against
you need some thick grease , a magnetic tool/screwdriver , and tons of patience
the washers will be equal to each side, and grease them up and push together and they will stick together, then with the magnetic tool, offer up the long bolt, push in far enough to then add the washers and push the bolt on through , and do the same when it comes out the other side of the diff bracket for the lower control arms , patience patience patience is the key to this one
good luck
BB
#3
Further to BB's points. Here is an exploded view of the bits in the order that they go in:
Link:
Wishbones and Mounting-Rear - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Remember that you need two sets for each side, four in all. Clean everything up, buy new bits is best, it is not too bad a job. For EACH hole in the wishbone, starting in the centre of each hole and working identically outwards: The short tube (part no 10), 2 roller bearings in the middle of each eye in the wishbone on this tube (part no 11), then a thrust washer each side of those (12), then the rubber sealing ing ring each side of those (13), then the seal retaining ring each side of those (14), then the outer thrust washer each side of those.
The long tube (3) between the two eyes on each side sort of jams in place between the casting (5) bolted to the diff that this all swings on. Check the casting is firmly bolted to the diff, they do work loose. This casting, if loose, may have lost its shims (6). These are used to ensure the holes in the casting exactly line up with the eyes in the wishbone, so the whole arrangement can pivot freely and not jam.
If they have come out and/or the casting is loose, and/or the pivot pin will not go through fairly easily, get a selection of shims ready. Bolt the casting to the diff (7 and 8) not quite finger tight, then assemble the whole thing, including the pivot pin (2) which will go through easily if the casting is not tightly bolted to the diff. Then, tighten one casting bolt 1/2 a turn then and check if the arm freely pivots. Then the other 1/2 a turn and check again. At some point you will feel the wishbone start to bind slightly. Slacken the one you turned last 1/4 turn and shove a shim into the minute gap between the casting and the diff boy. Continue with the other casting fixing bolt and do the same. Once all Ok and shimmed, finally tighten the casting fixing bolts to the specified torque.
Just to cheer you up, on the bother end of the wishbone, the hub end, renewing the bearings is FAR worse a job!
Greg
Link:
Wishbones and Mounting-Rear - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Remember that you need two sets for each side, four in all. Clean everything up, buy new bits is best, it is not too bad a job. For EACH hole in the wishbone, starting in the centre of each hole and working identically outwards: The short tube (part no 10), 2 roller bearings in the middle of each eye in the wishbone on this tube (part no 11), then a thrust washer each side of those (12), then the rubber sealing ing ring each side of those (13), then the seal retaining ring each side of those (14), then the outer thrust washer each side of those.
The long tube (3) between the two eyes on each side sort of jams in place between the casting (5) bolted to the diff that this all swings on. Check the casting is firmly bolted to the diff, they do work loose. This casting, if loose, may have lost its shims (6). These are used to ensure the holes in the casting exactly line up with the eyes in the wishbone, so the whole arrangement can pivot freely and not jam.
If they have come out and/or the casting is loose, and/or the pivot pin will not go through fairly easily, get a selection of shims ready. Bolt the casting to the diff (7 and 8) not quite finger tight, then assemble the whole thing, including the pivot pin (2) which will go through easily if the casting is not tightly bolted to the diff. Then, tighten one casting bolt 1/2 a turn then and check if the arm freely pivots. Then the other 1/2 a turn and check again. At some point you will feel the wishbone start to bind slightly. Slacken the one you turned last 1/4 turn and shove a shim into the minute gap between the casting and the diff boy. Continue with the other casting fixing bolt and do the same. Once all Ok and shimmed, finally tighten the casting fixing bolts to the specified torque.
Just to cheer you up, on the bother end of the wishbone, the hub end, renewing the bearings is FAR worse a job!
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 01-16-2015 at 09:39 AM.
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