im trying to dial in -1-2* of camber in the front and rear of my XJS
ive scoured google looking to figure this out and ive come up with nothing useful.

i dont even understand how the rear hubs remain veritcle since theyre only bolted at the bottom.
i plan on going a bit lower than my current height and the wheels ive got just barely tuck in as it is. ive got a hair of rub going over rough potholes.

 

M90power,

Shims are used to adjust the camber on both the front and rear. It's detailed in the Jaguar workshop manual.

The front is done by shims on the pivot bolts. The rear is done by shims on the inner axle before the brake discs (on a pre-facelift).

Make sure you're read the manual properly as it's easy for people to screw up the castor on the front if you don't understand how to set up the camber shims. Don't let a garage do it if they don't fully understand XJSs.

Good luck

Paul

 

Yikes! $100 for a manual.
Wouldn't be too bad if my jaguar was almost entirely Custom except for the suspension.

Any info in where to get these shims?

 

If you can wait I just ordered the 3rd manual online. I'll get it next week if you still need info by then

I believe you are looking for #1 in this image the part number is C16621



Welshent $1.45
Terry's Jag $0.99
SNG Baratt $1.00

You'll have to check shipping to see which is ultimately cheaper

 

If you want to create or increase negative camber at the rear wheels you won't need to buy any shims. Just remove what's already there.

Cheers

DD

 

Oh yeah, nice point doug. I didn't really understand what -1-2* was without you saying that. Yeah if its negative just take stuff out

 

To attain negative camber on the front you need to add shims (washers) at item 14. It then pulls the top of the arm in creating negative camber.

http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/jaguar-xjs-v139052-v179736-parts/steering-and-suspension/wishbone-and-hub-assembly-front/wishbone-and-balljoint-upper


Ideally you need to do this and then check it with a 4 wheel alignment machine.

Using different thickness washers/shims to gain the desired figures.

 

you guys are the best!

 

Been away, just catching up.

The warning about shops screwing front suspensions on Jags is REAL.

The camber shims on the top inner pivot bolt MUST be the same thickness on the front bolt as the rear bolt. This keeps the top bolt AND the lower bolt parrallel. The Caster is done seperately with shim movement at the actual top balljoint.

Those that try and do the caster/camber adjustment as a one hit adjustment, end up chopping out suspension pivot bushes very quickly.

As Doug said, the rear camber is shims removed from the Rotor to Halfshaft area only. The shims INSIDE the rotor are to centralise the rotor in the fixed position brake caliper, so dont mess with them lightheartedly.

The hub stays vertical coz the top arm IS the actual driveshaft, and is a unique design.

 

Grant is correct. Front and rear shims the same.

Castor is the way to cure steering pull providing everything else is in tip top condition. Castor is the final adjustment really. It's the final tweak to get your XJS going in a straight line.
However this should only be done on a dead flat smooth road. Of which not many exist !

 

I don't think he is worried about caster, probably leaving the stock spec. He is fixing the rear end

 

He does need to worry about the caster issue as he is fixing both front and rear as he said..

"im trying to dial in -1-2* of camber in the front and rear of my XJS...."

Paul