carpet advice
#1
carpet advice
Hi,
My '82 XJS has spent the winter at a spa, and now that the seats are rejuvenated, and the wood is re-finished, I'm considering about doing the carpet too.
There seem to be 2 camps: rubberized impermeable underfloor, and sort of a hard, pressed fiber stuff. The first one is made not to breathe, the second the breathe easy. They both purport to have sound proofing qualities.
Does anyone have experience with this decision?
Thanks,
Steve
My '82 XJS has spent the winter at a spa, and now that the seats are rejuvenated, and the wood is re-finished, I'm considering about doing the carpet too.
There seem to be 2 camps: rubberized impermeable underfloor, and sort of a hard, pressed fiber stuff. The first one is made not to breathe, the second the breathe easy. They both purport to have sound proofing qualities.
Does anyone have experience with this decision?
Thanks,
Steve
#2
#3
I am of a school of thought that wants water to NEVER reach the metal of my floors again. I haven't done it to my XJS, but I DID to my XKE and my TR6. I bought the aluminum foil backed sound deadner that sticks to everything it touches like flypaper. I then sealed every square inch of flooring with it, and everywhere there was even the slightest chance of water getting through a seam, I taped it with the aluminum mastic foil tape that is used in good HVAC installations. Carpet I can replace. Floor panels? Not so easy. We never plan on our cars getting wet, but then again, I have only had one Jag convertible that didn't seem to leak anywhere. And I sold it because it was to dependable, lol. A 95 6 liter car. I now wish I had it back.
The following users liked this post:
Steve812 (03-25-2014)
#4
FWIW, I believe that the treatment of the floorpan before laying anything is rather important. Something like POR 15 or Rust Bullet is what I used. The floorpan rusts from the inside out as much as the other way, I believe. Once you have painted on a 'bath' of this stuff, going well up the tunnel side and sills, any water that gets through the carpet/sound deadener should not be able to get to the metal.
I used the original OEM fibre stuff, on the assumption that I could pull it up every now and then and see what the floorpan looked like. Basically, air is always a bit humid, and even a 'dry' carpet will be holding some moisture against the metal, sticking stuff down is a bit risky I feel, as you will have to destroy it to check the floor metal.
Greg
I used the original OEM fibre stuff, on the assumption that I could pull it up every now and then and see what the floorpan looked like. Basically, air is always a bit humid, and even a 'dry' carpet will be holding some moisture against the metal, sticking stuff down is a bit risky I feel, as you will have to destroy it to check the floor metal.
Greg
The following 2 users liked this post by Greg in France:
JJS- Florida (03-04-2024),
Steve812 (03-25-2014)
#5
FWIW, I believe that the treatment of the floorpan before laying anything is rather important. Something like POR 15 or Rust Bullet is what I used. The floorpan rusts from the inside out as much as the other way, I believe. Once you have painted on a 'bath' of this stuff, going well up the tunnel side and sills, any water that gets through the carpet/sound deadener should not be able to get to the metal.
I used the original OEM fibre stuff, on the assumption that I could pull it up every now and then and see what the floorpan looked like. Basically, air is always a bit humid, and even a 'dry' carpet will be holding some moisture against the metal, sticking stuff down is a bit risky I feel, as you will have to destroy it to check the floor metal.
Greg
I used the original OEM fibre stuff, on the assumption that I could pull it up every now and then and see what the floorpan looked like. Basically, air is always a bit humid, and even a 'dry' carpet will be holding some moisture against the metal, sticking stuff down is a bit risky I feel, as you will have to destroy it to check the floor metal.
Greg
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