1996 XJS

Can the convertible top be converted to a fully manual system? I'm exploring the idea of removing the entire hydraulic system and all it's electrics.

If I've got to stop the car, pull the handbrake, release the clamps, slowly retract the top, then get out of the car to put the cover over the thing... What's the point?

I may as well just get out and yank the thing back.

Right now, there is a problem with the system. It's annoying and it made a mess. The system weighs a ton, it's high in the car, it needs loads of wiring, and odds are after I figure out what's wrong it's going to break again, anyway.

So, never mind how stupid it might seem. I know it'd be cooler to keep that fancy automatic operation, but I don't care. The car will be just as elegant without it, and more simple. I'm not doing this to get out of the repair.

The repair is simply a good excuse to do what I wanted anyway.

I want to know if it's possible within reason. Removing the junk isn't a problem. Getting the quarter windows working like normal windows isn't a problem.

If, however, the top will become terribly flimsy without the hydraulics, that is indeed a problem. So, I'd like to know whether or not the top's basic frame, clamps, and hinges will hold it tight as normal without those pistons back there.

Just how structural are they, if indeed they provide any designed support at all?

 

Dropping the top manually isn't hard, but it's heavier than it looks and raising it would be a chore.

 

There is a provision to raise and lower the top manually with the system in the car. Have to look at the handbook but IIRC starts with turning a lever on the hydraulic reservoir. I'd try that for a bit before I took out the system completely. Think you might be surprised at what a chore it would be.

 

I've been operating it manually for some time. It's not difficult at all. All I have to do is grab the handle and pull. I can feel the force required, but it's not a bother.

I'm not interested in removing it because I have a problem operating it manually. I want to remove it because I'm operating it manually anyway, so I'd like to get rid of all that extra nonsense. Cars don't need all this automatic junk in them.

Removing the hydraulics should actually reduce the force required to operate it, though, as a good portion of it is used to overcome the hydraulic system itself, even if it's in the manual loop mode. The fluid still has to pass through the system, and that's what you are feeling when you move it manually.

I'm talking about removing everything, and by everything, I mean everything. The only things left would be the articulated frame of the top itself, the headliner, and the canvas, like one might find on a Miata. It would simply be a hand-operated drop top.

So, the question stands: Are the pistons a designed structural member of the articulated frame?

If they are not, I can remove it all without a care. Odds are, they are not important, but it never hurts to wait for someone who knows to chime in.

 

C'mon. Somebody has to know this.

I must have used the wrong title, suggesting that the thread is about that valve, which it is not.

I'll have to re-post it in a while if I get no responses, under the assumption that people don't know what I'm on about. I see now that this may be the case.

 

I have no idea, but this reminds me of the late 80s, when Mercedes introduced their update SL lineup. Decades ahead of the XJS convertible (literally); fully automatic, superior insulation, aesthetics, you name it... Gawd not to mention the powertrains... that 48 valve V12 is a work of art.

Anyway, free bump.

 

I operate mine manually since it stopped going down. I just turnded the lever to face perpendicular to the pump. Its not hard to move it up and down. If you can lift a ten pound weight you can do it. A girl can do it.

Just disconnect everything. All the support is in the frame. I need to remove mine to get to the fuel pump. I am going to slowly put it back over aperiod of time, inspecting every part, checking the module solderings, etc. In the meantime Im going old school and manually doing it .

 

I thought I updated this thread...

I've disconnected the hydraulic cylinders. Is the top still rigid? Absolutely! Everything works fine.

WOW! This is sooooooooooo much better! The frame is still perfectly rigid, as suggested by hoodun. Thanks, by the way, for answering my actual question. Pulling it back is a matter of unlatching it and just flipping the thing rearward. It nearly drops all by itself.

It's gone from a maddeningly frustrating British GT convertible to something that's just as fast and easy as a Miata!

It's THAT good. Stuff all that automatic nonsense. I am very happy with the result. I can have it down along with all the windows in less than half the time it took for the automatic function to work.

I can't wait to pull the entire system out. Right now, the quarter windows work on their normal 8 second delay. I'll have to install a window switch and harness before I remove all the electronics, but for now, they work.

Since the hydraulics are an isolated system, it's just one plug and some bolts to remove it all. I can do that now, without affecting the windows.

hoddun: Man, I don't know why you are even considering putting things back together.

This is just better.

It's precisely what I wanted, and I'm happy I did it.

 

This thread has certainly helped me make my decision on going manual !!!!!

Thank you

 

This seems a big step backward. I repaired the one in my 89 for less than 30.00, putting in a new internal seal in pump, new nylon lines from Home Depot, and the correct aviation fluid off of eBay. It literally goes down (or up) in 6 seconds flat. Took me about three hours. One doesn't have to go so far as to stop the car and all of that. Shift to neutral, pull parkbrake just enough to light the brake light in dash, and you can put the top down any time you want. I just don't recommend much speed lol, as it could damage the top frame and or your ego.

 

kennith13,

It wouldn't be my choice, but hey, it's your car!

If you're going to take out the hydrualics, why not just leave the hood ecu in place, then put bypass loops on the handbrake and transmission selector input terminals on the ecu? Then you can just use the hood switch as a rear window switch (albeit with 8-second delay when raising). That would seem to be a simpler approach and also enable an easier retrofit of teh hydraulics if you, or future owner ever wanted to.

Cheers

Paul

 

I am leaving all the hydraulics intact (might want to repair the hoses and seals later)..... I just removed the fuse at the pump and the rear quarter windows work fine from the switch (only has the delay when rolling them up)..... It is just a fast fix at this time because I have too many other things to fix just to pass inspection.