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These are what Mercans call Pipe Wrenches.
This is the selection I had at the house just now. They're 18 inches long, the center one has a slim enough handle to slip a cheater pipe over and give me a LOT of leverage.
Replaceable jaws. Although I've never had occasion to replace them, nor do I know anyone who has.
You can see, however, the one on the Left has much sharper teeth than the Patinaed one which is Well Experienced (probably older than I am). That's because I stole the Right one from my dad.
48 inch Record Pipe Wrench that I Picked Up at a Yard Sale for only £25! and although I can hardly pick it up, as it really is that Heavy sometimes it's the Only Tool, that will do the job
We also call those Adjustable Pipe Wrenches! Most of mine were inherited from my late Dad (& Grandad!) They hold a special place in my tool cabinets along with a range of King Dick adjustable spanners.
Even in these days when I have a specialist socket or spanner for nearly every situation, I'm surprised I often I still end up needing to go and get one of those out of my garage!
Alex,
I have actually seen those for sale in the Specialty Tool Store, and tried to get husband to buy me one, just for kicks. But having no sense of humor that day he refused. The price might have had something to do with it, as it was Not $25 or whatever the exchange rate is, but a genuine Ridgid (Legacy Mercan maker of pipe tools) for right at $300.00.
I admit that's a bit steep for a gag.
So I have to make do with the Pipe Wrench Family I already have:
Dad, 24 inches. Mom, 18 inches. 3 kids, 14, 10 and 8 inches.
(And, just like Real Life, Mom gets worked the hardest. Probably cuz she's the most useful)
As posted previously in this thread, I have 3 (three) 18 inch copies, of which I usually need 2 for any real job.
Husband had an alloy one, which I refused to use just on general principles. Being only a gerl I frequently need Equalizers in my work, and an Alloy pipe wrench simply did not inspire confidence when fitted with a cheater.
Besides.It was only 12 inches.
(';')
That's quite a Collection of Wrenches you've got there, I bought that Record 48 inch one many years ago,when I first joined the Forum so I think I would be lucky to find a bargain like that to-day but then again 'you never know'
I was about to try and find out how much they cost to buy but you beat me to it Lol
Though one thing is for Certain, they are a little expensive for a person who only uses these things now and again
Though what is so surprising is that I do tend to use it a lot, as sometimes it's the only thing that will do the Job, although I won't be putting it in the Tool Box of my XJS as for one thing it's so heavy that I cannot pick it up!
It must weigh about one 112 lbs at least!
But back at 'The Towers' I'm building a Mobile Workshop
No I don't know why either, as I am not planning to take it on the road, it's more that I've discovered that I like making things, which reminds me that I was going to Show you that Gadget I bought at Christmas but I didn't have a Phone to put up a Pic
So no more excuses, here it is!
As you can see, it's a Jig Saw that Can turn into a Sabre Saw and is really very useful for all sorts of things around the house and cost about £39-99 if I remember correctly, although I went on a buying Spree at the time in question and bought myself a couple of Impact Wrenches that are Amazing!
HA! I *Like* that!
Husband had a Milwaukee Sawzall when I moved here, but he succeeded in killing it while trimming a tree (isn't that why God gave us Chainsaws??)! So now I have no reciprocating saw at all if I need one.
(Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it, I always say.)
So I'm going to look into acquiring one of those!
(';')
Just when I was thinking that the Nightmare was over, the reality is it's only just begun!
The Rear Brakes seemed to be binding, where the Tyres were starting to cut grooves in the Lawn at 'Orange Blossom Towers' that could have been caused by Stuck Calipers, Stuck Brake Pads, or even Sticking Handbrake Shoes, that are inside the Rotors, that some people seem to be unaware of
And so there was only one thing to do and that was to take the Rear Wheels off and then refurbish the lot, where while taking off those rear Wheels was dead easy, they were so heavy for me to lift up the once I had completed this Job and renewed all the Components
Putting those Wheels back on the Car was a Nightmare, not only because they were Heavy but also because you had to get them lined up with the Studs to get them back on but as I'm not built like 'Arnie' I thought that I would try and make some sort of a Gadget to assist me
Where although the first one seemed to work, it also seemed to be too complicated and so with so many things to go wrong, I thought that I would try and Simplify it by eliminating everything that wasn't really needed
And this was so Successful, that all I ended up with was a Two Foot Piece of Pipe! aka a Two Foot length of 50mm Standard Scaffolding Pole,that you can also find in Aluminum to save weight in the Boot/Trunk if you want to keep it with you, in case you need to change a Wheel by the Side of the Road
'Drum Roll' All I needed was a Two Foot Length of Standard 50mm Scaffolding Pole and an Axle Stand and that was that!
Where at this point even I was feeling disappointed, as this took 'KISS' (keep it simple stupid) to a whole new different sort of level
Where to make matters worse if they could get worse, if you haven't got an Axle Stand, then you could always use some Blocks of Wood!
The only good news being that the results were so Spectacular that I started to wonder why I had never though of this before, as it doesn't just work on an XJS but also on lots of other Cars, that include my Merc where lining up the holes for the Studs on that can drive you Crazy!
So before you Watch the Video, I spun the Wheel Round on the Pole so you could see I wasn't Cheating by having the Holes lined up!
Without wishing to dampen your enthusiasm, there are 2 problems that I can see:
- Greg's right, unfortunately that solution is going to work on the front wheels because of the hub cap.
- More importantly, I don't feel you should ever take off the centre cap of an XJS wheel (or any wheel) unless you're sending the wheel to be balanced. The poor quality tangs on the caps are far too easily damaged on removal and refit and many owners on here will have ended up spending £33 more than once just replacing one cap. I never let a tyre fitter carelessly punch out the centre cap and break the tangs. I very carefully remove them myself before I take the wheel to them, and then I also run a bead of clear silicone around the mount flange when I refit the caps.
So, great efforts but I'd still have another go at the screw-on wheel nut extender tubes that I use. I refitted a 19" wheel on my Range Rover yesterday. If you thought an XJS wheel was heavy...!!
And I'm sure you did do a final torque up the nuts! But naturally, you'll have done it with the wheels on the ground, so that's why we didn't see it on the video!
As my late Dad used to say "Don't start refitting the wheel until you've got the torque wrench beside you." His other phrase that I still repeat in my head every time I refit a wheel is "Don't even think about driving, Paul, until you've stopped torquing!"
Don't Start Panicking just yet! Give me a chance to explain (Lol)
At first I was very convinced the back end was the problem! as I was thinking Stuck Calipers as well as Handbrake Shoes, though as it turned out, it was none of those things, as everything on the back end was working as it should and was ok
Although my OCDness didn't manage to stop me pulling it all to pieces to make sure
And so how come was my Car making all those gouge marks on the Lawn? or do I mean 'Swathe'?
As when I went to Frinton 'Swathe' is the term that many people use, as its very, very, kinda nice down there! in fact so nice that when there was talk of someone opening up a 'Fish and Chip Shop' People were getting the Vapors and it made Front Page News in all the Papers (Absolutely True!)
But 'Orange Blossom Towers' has got a 'Lawn'
Not just a 'Lawn' but a 'Lawn' with Skid Marks over it!
So it didn't appear that this was caused by the 'Back End' after all and so those Heavy Rear Wheels had to go back on! except they were so heavy that I couldn't pick them up, as confirmed by those 'Match Stick' Arms that you see in that Video
Where unable to leave the Car like that, I came up with Lifting Device Mk1V which was a Two Foot Length of Scaffolding Pole and just in case you're wondering what happened to the MK111 and even if you're not!
The MK111 was made from a Two Foot Length of very rusty looking Pipe that I found down the Garden, in amongst all that Junk, that would have looked so out of place on this 'Swankmobile' that being Superstitious, I thought bad things might happen, if I brought it anywhere near!
Where as you can see the MK1V worked like a 'Charm' and so the only thing left now, was to do the Front End, as if you've been paying attention (Lol) then that was the Start of the 'Nightmare' that I was referring to and was either going to be Stuck Calipers, or Stuck Brake Pads or maybe even Both!
So Starting really early before it got too hot to Work, I started pulling everything apart and freeing things off
Including of course those very Heavy Front Wheels! or should I say Wheel, as I've still got the other side to do
Except before I do that, I've got to put that Heavy Wheel back on, as my other Trolley Jack, is being used to Prop Up my other XJS I'm Working on!
Never a dull moment down at 'Orange Blossom Towers!' although at least it keeps my Neighbors entertained!
Where they keep mistaking Lightning in the Middle of the Night, with me in my Garage with my Welding Set
And so I hear you asking! how do I put those Heavy Front Wheels On?
'Oh Ye Of Little Faith!'
This is going to require some imagineering on your part, although the Photos should help to explain it, in the kind of way I never could
(1) Turn the Hub till one of the Studs is at 12o/c
(2) Line the wheel up (while still on the ground) so that one of the Holes in that Wheel is also at 12o/c
I really hope you are following this! as I could be asking questions later!
(3) This time move the Axle Stand (or else block of wood) as close to the Wheel as you can
(4) Put the Pole in the Hole as before although not so far in this time
(5) Then using the Axle Stand as some kind of a 'Make Shift' Fulcrum (or whatever it's called) use the Pole as a Lever this time to lift the Wheel up, while at the same time keeping the Pole as Close to the Grease Cap on the Front Hub as you can
(6) Then when you can see the Grease Cap through the Center of the Wheel, using your knee at the base of the Tyre, with your other hand up at the Top
you then push the Wheel straight on to the Hub where if you get lucky and you've lined it up right, it will go straight on to the Stud the very first time
Though if you are a little bit out, with about an inch of the Hub poking into the Wheel (as the Studs may prevent it being pushed on further) a little revolve of the Wheel to the Left or else to the Right, should be enough to see the Wheel pushed home
Which you can then loosely secure with a Wheel Nut by hand, to hold it in place while you then put the other nuts on, to do up with your Impact Driver and then once having done so Torque them down
Except I didn't do that, as I wanted a little Test Drive over the Lawn first, just to make sure that my Car was not leaving any Gouge Marks as it had done before, then in the event that all is ok, then I'll tighten them up and Torque them down
Even at that Crazy Angle, I easily got a Wheel Nut on just enough to hold it in position, until I got them all on finger tight
This time using my Lower Powered Impact Driver (Yes I've got Two!) If you've got it flaunt it!
I just nipped them up enough for a Test Drive over the Lawn, just in case I haven't solved the problem and they have to come off again!
Last edited by orangeblossom; Jun 16, 2023 at 05:27 AM.
Alex
I have been giving this some thought, as we all get older it is a real problem. I wonder about the following, inspired by your ideas:
Part 1: A steel tube of decent quality steel OD just slightly small than the wheelnut hole in the wheel (ie same diameter a the wheelnut outer diameter).
the ID of this tube just a touch bigger than the 1/2 inch wheel stud on the hub
the tube is foldable so it is easy to store, but (like an elbow joint) folds out straight and rigid in one plane. It is therefore long enough to provide leverage for even the most enfeebled pensioner like me
Part 2: A lightweight articulated V piece (that folds flat hinged at the point of the V) with a round hole welded at the top of the V which fits over the outer end of the tube. The legs of the V are about 3 inches longer than the distance from the hub centre to the ground.
proceed as follows:
set wheel upright 6 inches from the hub
slide folded V piece over the outer end of the tube
thread tube through highest wheel hole and push over highest hub wheel stud
Lift outer end of the tube and slide wheel onto stub
extend legs of the V piece to support the outer end of the tube, no need to support it by hand any longer
Once on one stub, rotate wheel slightly as required to engage the wheel on the hub and attached wheel nut to lowest two studs (the wheel always tries to disengage from the hub at the lowest point)
The tube and V are now removed from the stud, the tube folded in half and the V folded flat and both returned to the boot in their fine leather pouch.
This is basically your idea but with easier lighter less bulky implementation.
Great idea from Greg! I do think a wheelnut tube is a much better idea and avoids goung through the centre cap which, as mentioned, shouldn't be removed imo, unless absolutely necessary.
A slightly alternative suggestion to Greg's routine:
- Get a tube as per Greg's suggestion. Obviously it's ideal if you can tap a thread on the id to spread the load on the wheelstud threads, but not absolutely essential.
- Line up whichever of the wheel holes lines up in the best horizontal plane with the lowest wheestud. Get the wheel just a few inches away from the hub, so that the studs are just clear of the wheel
- Now support the tube at it's outer end with an axle stand or similar to maintain that horizontal alignment
- Turn the wheel around on the tube to line up all the other studs to the holes. This is the only time where you need any physical effort, but not much, as you're just pivoting the weight of the wheel on the tube
- Slide it the few inches onto the studs
- Loosely fit the 4 exposed wheel nuts
- Remove the tube and loosely fit the 5th wheelnut
- Gently tighten the wheelnuts, doing every 2nd one (the correct way to tighten a 5-stud wheel)
- Lower car to ground
- Torque nuts doing every 2nd one.
Though would you be also kind enough to Grace us with one of your Iconic Picasso-esq type Sketches, as I can't quite manage to get my head around it where being 'Pimms O/clock' down here at 'Orange Blossom Towers' could have maybe helped to befuddle my brain
As for me at this moment in time, I was Planning to make myself the Mk1V out of an Aluminum Pole that would be Three Fit in Length instead of Two for a Bit more Leverage
Although in the interests of Research the easiest way of putting either the Front or Back Wheels on, was to get down on your knees while sitting astride the device
This then allows you to push the Tyre onto the Studs using both of your hands, although it could no doubt have produced, a Photo that would have gone Viral for all the wrong reasons!
Attached.
Paul, I think a high stud for the tube is better as the wheel will be unstable on a low stud, and because of the hub-centric fitting, the lowest stud will hold the wheel securely, as the wheel naturally tips outwards at the bottom if not wheel nutted.
I did think about threading the tube, but I think that would be a pain, and as this will only be done occassionally, I reckon stud damage is not likely. Maybe, even, a hard ally tube would do the job, in which case no worries anyway.
My V support means both hands can be used to place the wheel once the tube is poking through the wheel nut hole and is engaged on the stud, as in effect the device is then a tripod.
Last edited by Greg in France; Jun 16, 2023 at 06:16 AM.
I understand your point about trying for the high stud. You're probably right about not needing to have it threaded. I just happen to have the threaded rods!
The reason I'm suggesting going for the low stud with a "highish wheel hole" is that you can align the tube straight with the car jacked up and the wheel on the ground. I'll try and draw a pic to illustrate!
)
