Console, dash and glove box wood, 1988 car
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From: Central Arizona
Console, dash and glove box wood, 1988 car
My wood is in decent shape, it has matte finish, and the grain pattern texture can be felt. Its no doubt dirty though
I have seen pics some wood that is all glossy and smooth, like lots of urethane had been sprayed, sanded and polished.
What is correct? Or are both, depending on the year?
Since I have the console top wood piece off, i figure this may be good time to start on that refurbishment.
BTW, lots of multi-colored (hot pink, day-glo yellow) zip ties under the console, the PO was obviously at work, there, zip ties used to hold the rocker switches in place, and around bundles of wire. Going to have to make some better switch retainer mechanisms. Some of the switch mounting clips are snapped off..
I assume new window rocker switches are available? Yes, no? Four rocker, this in an H&E convertible
Doug
I have seen pics some wood that is all glossy and smooth, like lots of urethane had been sprayed, sanded and polished.
What is correct? Or are both, depending on the year?
Since I have the console top wood piece off, i figure this may be good time to start on that refurbishment.
BTW, lots of multi-colored (hot pink, day-glo yellow) zip ties under the console, the PO was obviously at work, there, zip ties used to hold the rocker switches in place, and around bundles of wire. Going to have to make some better switch retainer mechanisms. Some of the switch mounting clips are snapped off..
I assume new window rocker switches are available? Yes, no? Four rocker, this in an H&E convertible
Doug
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 26,740
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From: Tehama County, California, USA
I can only respond about your wood, I suppose it's all about personal preference.
To do it properly, it should be sanded smooth to about 400 grit. If you're careful to wipe it clean you don't have so much dust when the first coat of finish is dry. Obviously you need to have as Dust Free an environment as possible.
Then applying one coat of PolyU and follow directions on the can.
Allow to dry fully. I like to leave it a couple days. It won't be totally smooth as the first coat raises wood hairs if starting with bare wood. If starting with the existing finish, you might get away with only 1 or 2 coats more.
Sand smooth again with 400 and reapply PolyU. By this time most of the wood hairs should be banished. If not then sand with 600, reapply PolyU a third time, and continue until you have the glassy finish if that's what you want.
My dash has about 6 coats on, a mirror finish that looks 2 inches deep! The danger of that is that eventually if cold/heat cycles are extreme, the PolyU begins to flake off in areas of stress or where edges that weren't properly finished/sealed. I have such a flake starting around the tach hole, but it hasn't grown since I got the car.
Numerous thin coats work better than few thick coats.
(';')
To do it properly, it should be sanded smooth to about 400 grit. If you're careful to wipe it clean you don't have so much dust when the first coat of finish is dry. Obviously you need to have as Dust Free an environment as possible.
Then applying one coat of PolyU and follow directions on the can.
Allow to dry fully. I like to leave it a couple days. It won't be totally smooth as the first coat raises wood hairs if starting with bare wood. If starting with the existing finish, you might get away with only 1 or 2 coats more.
Sand smooth again with 400 and reapply PolyU. By this time most of the wood hairs should be banished. If not then sand with 600, reapply PolyU a third time, and continue until you have the glassy finish if that's what you want.
My dash has about 6 coats on, a mirror finish that looks 2 inches deep! The danger of that is that eventually if cold/heat cycles are extreme, the PolyU begins to flake off in areas of stress or where edges that weren't properly finished/sealed. I have such a flake starting around the tach hole, but it hasn't grown since I got the car.
Numerous thin coats work better than few thick coats.
(';')
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