Hi Hwoodlive,

Thank you very much for your reply.

i ordered the high performance Loaded U-cup seal from the O-Ring Store and received them today, via FedEx 2 day delivery special price, $6.99. The seals were only $2.25 each. I bought extra.

i also received the SKF527935 seal from Amazon, which looks like those from the O-Ring Store, but does not include the embedded o-ring.

You said you installed the slightly larger diameter side toward the pump. The open cup side with the embedded o-ring is the slightly larger diameter. So, I am assuming you installed the open cup side with o-ring toward the pump. To your recollection, does that sound right?

i have tried to attach comparison photos of these two sources of seals, but have not been successful with that Forum procedure.

 

Yes, LastChance, I think that's what I did: the larger (with the o-ring) side went towards the pump. My old one was so beat up that I couldn't tell which way it was originally installed. I think I did it this way 'cause I reasoned that the larger side offered more resistance to leakage. Honestly, I wouldn't be at all surprised if the seal works great either way though. Good luck!

 

Hi Hwoodlive,

i gained access to my pump assembly by removing side panels (3 screws on each) and removing / tilting back the storage box (3 screws). I then partially removed the 2 screws from the motor and separated motor from pump. I cannot be sur3 if seal is still there but probing with a fine point tweezer behind what may b3 the snap ring I think it is still there. My problem now is: how do I remove the snap ring? It appear# to be tightly situated.

 

As I recall, with some wrangling and general gymnastics, I was able to get the pump/motor assembly apart enough to not really have much of an issue reaching the snap ring. In my case there was enough slack in the pump hoses to be able to move the assembly around and get some distance between the two halves. I think there are rubber mounts holding the pump/motor assembly to the car, right? Once those were not locked down, I really did have some decent luck getting enough room to work on it. I think at that point I used a combination wrench whose open end was just barely larger than the motor axle; I put the open end against the tabs on the snap ring and tapped it off the axle, catching the ring with the other hand. I wonder if the mounts or access to this area changed from your '91 to my '94? Doesn't seem likely, but then, it's Jag... could be!

 

There was a change from the 2 seater to the 2+2 convertible. The 2 seaters have the pump in a locker behind the front seats, the 2+2 has the pump in the trunk above the battery, as the space was needed for leg room for rear seat passengers.

 

Holy cow, that's a giant change! Yes, the pump location near the battery was certainly a blessing for me.

 

Hi Jagboi64,

Although the 91 XJS 2 seater Conv. And the later 2+2 have different locations for the hydraulic pump assembly, I wonder if the pump and motor assembly are the same.
The problem I currently have is where to locate and how to remove the retainer or snap ring and access the old seal.
Another member has said to remove snap ring with a small screw driver.
If my photos will attach maybe they will help show what I have.




dd another photo

 

They are listed as the same part number. I've never changed the seal in a pump, so can't help you there.

 

I pulled my pump out completely to work on. It makes it so much easier. I used a pick and a nail to remove my snap ring

 

Thanks very much. I move the motor away from the pump, leaving the pump attached to the skid plate. I have easy access to the snap ring after roasting the ring 180 degrees. However, the tips and holes on the ring are so small, my snap ring tool will not get a good grip on holes to open the ring. I will try to dig out the ring with a fine point pick and maybe a knife blade or nail as you did. I will try to get a new snap ring to replace the old one.


Very small tips and holes on Snap ring.

 

LIKE x1000.... That ^^^^^^^

Mark the hoses relative to the pump. Top L, Bottom L etc and pull allllllll of that, the entire pump alllll together, out of the car. to the bench... its even easy to unbolt or unscrew the skid plate and housing for the entire assembly (fuses relays and all) out of the cubby. take the unit to a bench. far far easier (IMHO) than working on it IN, or mostly in the car. the pump and motor basically bleed themselves once rigged back up after the work. just fill and refill to get the fluid to the right level, allen cap off, run the pump.

the clip, I think I used a small nail or a mini pick (like Time said) to poke into one of the eyes of the ring and held a rag over the clip hole so as NOT to have the ring clip shoot out and land in the purgatory of LOST bits, to be lost for all eternity - never to be seen again,,, which is one of my best skills, lol.

My Brother. Do yourself a favor and take the whole thing out of the cubby. reassemble all of the surround behind the seats first (cubby area), reassemble the pump and on the bench, drop it back in. away you go.

 

What's odd for me about this whole snap ring ordeal, is that I'd swear mine was on the motor/pump axle, not inside the housing. My photo much earlier in this thread shows the ring, and it doesn't have any tabs, holes, or other elements that yours has. Mine also doesn't show any signs of having had to pry it out like that. I wonder if this was a running change at some point? I wish I'd documented the whole thing better, 'cause now it's hard to compare notes. I know you'll get it dialed-in though!

 

With a set of pics purchased at Home Depot, I was able to easily remove snap ring, spacer and old seal. I did not have to remove the pump from the plate and left all hoses attached. The seal did show some signs of wear, but was still in one piece. It was a Loaded U-cup style seal, so I replaced it with a new Loaded U-cup seal. I reused the spacer and snap ring.


After reassembly of motor to pump, I refilled with some MIL-PRF-5606J fluid, purchased from Aircraft Spruce. The sent me 5606J instead of the 5606H I ordered from their website. I have asked them to confirm MIL-PRF-5606H and 5606J are equivalent and both replacements for the original MIL-H-5606A.

I cycled the top up and down multiple times to purge the air, topping off the reservoir between cycles. I then discovered a new leak. Maybe this leak was due to the fact that I had not fully tightened the screws holding motor to pump. It is also possible the snap ring was not fully seated.

I then removed the fluid and the fuse and removed the motor. Upon pulling the motor, I found the snap ring, spacer and seal on the motor shaft. This is probably the same condition you found, Hwoodlive, when you changed your seal.

Anyway, after putting everything back together and cycling the top a few times, I think and hope it will be OK now. I hope with more cycles, the top will make a tighter closure at the windshield.



Seal, spacer and snap ring left on motor shaft after pulling motor


Seal, spacer and snap ring removed first time


Fluid purchased from Aircraft Spruce


View of Snap ring, spacer and seal after first installation. Note snap ring may not be fully seated.

 

Apparently the difference between H and A spec is that H meets the current "super clean" aircraft hydraulic spec, while A does not. The physical properties such as viscosity and pour point are identical. You can use H where A is called for but not the reverse.

 

So.... I have a '95 convertible and had the leaky pump. Followed the threads and bought the o-ring & recommended fluid. Upon disassemble the o-ring had disintegrated. R & R 'd & reassembled pump. Not a difficult task at all. Didn't pay attention to the position of the end cap and had the plug situated incorrectly and blew the 30A fuse. Once I figured that out the pump ran, but was noisy and didn't seem to be moving fluid. Am aware of the air in the system, but didn't seem to be circulating at all. After re-reading these threads, I thought maybe I didn't have the shaft seated properly and the end cap tightened just right. Took the pump out...again and disassembled to be sure the shaft was seated. I did notice if the end cap is too tight it definitely binds the shaft. Reassembled and just snugged the bolts down. Back in the car and depress the button, the rear windows go down, but nothing from the pump. I can hear the click and the volt gauge go backs to where it would be with no load at the end of the cycle. Cycle it up and after the delay for the time it would take for the top to come up the windows then go up and the volt gauge goes back to no load. What could I be doing wrong? It's obvious the circuit is being made, but the pump doesn't run now. It was running previously. I made sure the relays are all seated properly. Any ideas? Thanks to all for the previous input. It's extremely helpful.

 

A massive thank you for this breakdown! When I purchased the car, neither the rear quarter windows nor hydraulic pump were functioning. So i fully disassembled and cleaned similarly to what you did, as well as taking some time to clean corrosion out of the plugs for the relays. Filled up with Royco and the top and rear windows are now all functioning!

 

Hi All. Great forum and loads of useful information.
I am in the UK with a 94 convertible, and have had a couple of convertible issues including the driver’s side quarterlight (a well-known problem) and intermittent hood operation.
The car at some point has had its rear “cubby box” removed and replaced with 2+2 seating, which although is nice, it is a complete PITA, because the pump, control module and relays are located on the mounting plate beneath the rear seating. Even a simple check involves removing all the rear seating which is frustrating.

I have a plan to relocate the pump etc to the boot / trunk, using a convertible pump mounting plate used by Jaguar on USA models. The revised mounting plate is bolted to the fuel tank support plate immediately above the battery. It will make life so much easier. There will be a challenge in that I will have to extend the convertible control loom from the rear seating into the trunk involving the Sumitomo multiway connector, but also I will need new plastic hydraulic pipes to be made up of greater length to extend from the relocated pump in the trunk to the roof lifters in the rear seating. Apologies if I have missed the specs in any previous threads, but does anybody know the specification for the hydraulic pipes, or re-direct me to the appropriate thread.

• Outside & inside diameter
• Fittings (I assume they are one of the standard BSP fittings)
• Pressure

I have a variety of pdf and paper manuals including parts, workshop and electrical to cover most years but none seem to cover the US variant of the pump in the trunk, and would be grateful if anybody out there can probide any info or experience.
Rgds
Chris

 

Just take the old one along to a hydraulic hose repairer and tell them the lengths you need.

 

Chris,

It's not just US models that have all the hood hydraulics in the boot. It's all XJSs with 2+2 seating, so nearly all Convertibles from May 1993. So maybe easier just to find all the relevant parts from a UK breaker of a late car. All the part numbers etc should be in the usual place on the Jaguar parts website, if that helps.

A 1994 2-seater Convertible is quite unusual. From the time that Jaguar introduced the 2+2 convertible in May 1993, it was technically possible to still buy a 2-seater Convertible. But as far as I know, they didn't make any 2-seater 4 litre cars after 1993, and just a tiny handful of 2-seater 6 litre Convertibles. Your signature doesn't say if you have a 4 litre or a 6 litre car, so it would be very interesting (to me!) if you actually have a 1994-built 2-seater Convertible.

Cheers

Paul

 

Hallo, I have a XJS Conv. of 1995 and replaced the shaft seal of the convertible hydraulic pump. Now I see that it leaks on the top where the manual tap is. Does anyone know the dimensions of this O-ring? Thanks Robert