Cougs' 1980 XJS Project Thread
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne, Australia
Cougs' 1980 XJS Project Thread
Hi All
New owner form Melbourne, Aust here. Just picked up a 1980 V12 Auto XJS as a project. Not currently running but complete and not too much rust.
It was last registered in 2006 and the last 2 owners have done very little with it. Last guys told me he thinks it has a fuel blockage as it was turning over but no fuel to the rail.
My initial plans are to get the motor running so I know what sort of condition its in - if its OK I'd like to get away with leaving it in the car during the build. The body seems pretty good with some rust under the bumpers front and rear and in the boot lid; but otherwise straight and rust free.
First thing when I got it home was a clean out under the bonnet which resulted in the discovery of a fair sized rats' nest beside the distributor. It also revealed that a previous owner had re-wired all of the injectors so at this stage I'm just hoping it was done right...
Once the nest removed I discovered plug leads 1a & b had both been chewed through, as well as the lead to the distributor control board (can't remember is exact name). I can get a new control board for about $400 and apparently its not worth going second hand as they have a tendancy to fail when changed so it can wait until after Xmas (according to the Minister for War & Finance); so I had a look at the fuel situation.
The problem there was a simple issue of broken fuel pump wire, fixed that and I have (seemingly) good pressure at the rail. I also have a small hole in the b side rail so have picked up a 2nd hand one to fit.
I now have the dizzy out and apart - cap and rotor button are both new - and will replace the coil as well. Time to start removing trims and have a look at the body work.
I plan to do as much of the work as I can myself - I've worked on cars mechanically and basic panel work (admitedly not for a few years now) and am an electrician by trade so hopefully I don't have to spend a million $$ on it.
I'll try and keep this thread updated every week and post updated pics in case anyone is interested and for my own records - I'm hoping that I can have it done and on the road in less than 12 months but that will in part depend on how good/bad the motor is.
No doubt I'll be looking for advice before too long (already picked up some tips that helped in checking the fuel issue!)
cheers
cougs
New owner form Melbourne, Aust here. Just picked up a 1980 V12 Auto XJS as a project. Not currently running but complete and not too much rust.
It was last registered in 2006 and the last 2 owners have done very little with it. Last guys told me he thinks it has a fuel blockage as it was turning over but no fuel to the rail.
My initial plans are to get the motor running so I know what sort of condition its in - if its OK I'd like to get away with leaving it in the car during the build. The body seems pretty good with some rust under the bumpers front and rear and in the boot lid; but otherwise straight and rust free.
First thing when I got it home was a clean out under the bonnet which resulted in the discovery of a fair sized rats' nest beside the distributor. It also revealed that a previous owner had re-wired all of the injectors so at this stage I'm just hoping it was done right...
Once the nest removed I discovered plug leads 1a & b had both been chewed through, as well as the lead to the distributor control board (can't remember is exact name). I can get a new control board for about $400 and apparently its not worth going second hand as they have a tendancy to fail when changed so it can wait until after Xmas (according to the Minister for War & Finance); so I had a look at the fuel situation.
The problem there was a simple issue of broken fuel pump wire, fixed that and I have (seemingly) good pressure at the rail. I also have a small hole in the b side rail so have picked up a 2nd hand one to fit.
I now have the dizzy out and apart - cap and rotor button are both new - and will replace the coil as well. Time to start removing trims and have a look at the body work.
I plan to do as much of the work as I can myself - I've worked on cars mechanically and basic panel work (admitedly not for a few years now) and am an electrician by trade so hopefully I don't have to spend a million $$ on it.
I'll try and keep this thread updated every week and post updated pics in case anyone is interested and for my own records - I'm hoping that I can have it done and on the road in less than 12 months but that will in part depend on how good/bad the motor is.
No doubt I'll be looking for advice before too long (already picked up some tips that helped in checking the fuel issue!)
cheers
cougs
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,638
Likes: 2,583
From: Vic Australia
Welcome to the forum and XJS ownership. You have some work ahead of but approach it like eating an elephant -One bite at a time -
I have just completed a 2.5 year resto of mine. All work done myself, panel/paint and mechanical. Just got rego today infact.
So any help I can be, just ask as I have already made most of the expensive mistakes.
Check out my blog
I have just completed a 2.5 year resto of mine. All work done myself, panel/paint and mechanical. Just got rego today infact.
So any help I can be, just ask as I have already made most of the expensive mistakes.
Check out my blog
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,638
Likes: 2,583
From: Vic Australia
Forgot - get yourself a manual they are available on CD and will be the best purchase you made.
The 1980 is a very desirable car and most likely has the high compression flat head V12, most powerful 5.3 XJS made. With a new ECU/electronic ignition it will fly.
The 1980 is a very desirable car and most likely has the high compression flat head V12, most powerful 5.3 XJS made. With a new ECU/electronic ignition it will fly.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne, Australia
Update time...
Got the body (except engine bay) forward of the windscreen rubbed back last weekend; all is in pretty good condition. The bash plate under the lower radiator grill was a little rusted in the middle so I did some creative work with the 4" grinder and now its re-shaped.
All of the chrome looks in good condition as I removed it so with a polish up should go straight back on.
The roof has some pitting in the paint, I've given it a rough rub back so far and will give it another going over and then hit it with a coat of hi-fill to see how it comes up.
Front bumper is completely rusted out behind the rubber skin so I'll be on the lookout for a replacement over coming months.
Working backwards, I have some rust to remove from the boot lid and a little panel work to do around the tail lights - hopefully have the body rubbed back ready for primer by the New Year.
Oh - and I have a manual!
Got the body (except engine bay) forward of the windscreen rubbed back last weekend; all is in pretty good condition. The bash plate under the lower radiator grill was a little rusted in the middle so I did some creative work with the 4" grinder and now its re-shaped.
All of the chrome looks in good condition as I removed it so with a polish up should go straight back on.
The roof has some pitting in the paint, I've given it a rough rub back so far and will give it another going over and then hit it with a coat of hi-fill to see how it comes up.
Front bumper is completely rusted out behind the rubber skin so I'll be on the lookout for a replacement over coming months.
Working backwards, I have some rust to remove from the boot lid and a little panel work to do around the tail lights - hopefully have the body rubbed back ready for primer by the New Year.
Oh - and I have a manual!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)