On the driver-side intake box there is the pipe for the crank vent, I'm wondering if there is any foreseeable issue with blocking the opening to the filter housing and just using the T peice directly connected to the crank vent?

I'm having issues with oil pooling in the filter box which can splash on the exhaust manifold causing quite abit of smoke if you redline it.

I tried venting it to open space with a tiny K&N style mesh filter but all I ended up doing was breathing fumes. Also soaked the mesh oil catch in gas to clear it, better but still not good.

My oil dipstick has a broken handle so it doesn't seat properly not sure if that defeats the whole PCV setup but I'd imagine it has some effect when the dipstick doesnt seal anything.

 

Technically, that filter and hose FROM the B bank air filter housing is in fact the INLET part of the system.

The manifold vac SUCKS air through the engine (there is NO vac inside the engine as such), BUT, when the thing is at Redline, or accelerating, the Vac is lost, NORMAL, sooooo, that hose becomes the vent for the engine until Vac is restored.

Some have reported removing that filter canister from the snout reduces that oil build up, it worked on all mine, and they were vented to atmosphere, and the PCV deleted. No fumes at all that I noticed.

I agree, that the dipstick etc not sealing as designed will allow a Vac leak, and depending on the size, whether the ECU hiccups or simply compensates for it.

If there is that much oil pooling, maybe????? the rings are not sealing as they once did, but at Redline, there is a HUGE amount of air in the crankcase to dispose of, and it will have oil in it at that velocity.

Greg in France has installed a catch can arrangement, VERY tidy and workable, so PM him, and wait for France to wake up, and he will certainly send you his findings.

 

I thought about rings etc, but with the smoke billowing due to oil/exhaust pipe contact its hard to do a real italian tune up, its annoying you'd think the suction inside the filter housing particularly AT higher rpm would suck the oil in.

I would prefer to delete it all thus cleaning up the engine but you'd still need a pipe venting somewhere that I can't smell at a red light

 

Your red light smells may be from the residual leaks, not the hose.

My hoses simply hung down, and zip tied to the sway bar, very professional, and NO odours at all.

Gregs alteration will sort it I am sure.

 

As instructed by the Great XJS Prophet:

• your oil smells will be from the dipstick faulty seal and the general leaks, new dispsticks are still around in the UK, tubes too.
• I had the pig's snout free to an open tube going downwards to the bottom of the subframe and had no smells. But I did start to get oil leaks from various places at the bottom of the engine I had never had before I removed the pcv setup.
• I hated the OEM pcv setup for the oil in the B bank inlet and the horrible pipes across the V.
• So I bought an aftermarket catch can from Amazon which was not expensive and is really well made. It even has a dipstick so you can easily test how full it is.
• 

In my case I fitted it on the RHS just in front of the radiator stack, with a flexible tube from the pig's snout to it, and from it another flexible to the A bank manifold. I used the large spigot underneath which has the vac takeoff for the cruise control, which I do not have; but any inlet will do, including making one by tapping a hole and screwing in a spigot.
The OEM B bank airbox inlet is closed off, the pipes removed and closed off as required by silicone end covers. This is really good setup and works really well, and no oil pooling in the inbox as the "suck" goes straight into the manifold, and anyway the catch can gets rid of 95% of any oil mist before it gets to the manifold anyway. If you want any more detailed pics just ask

 

Iv seen these, reminds me of the nice compact black and stainless steel coolant tanks I was looking at. Can you post some detailed pictures?

 

Pics herewith. I have a stainless 20m to 10mm OD adaptor in the pig's snout, 10mm ID gates fuel high pressure fuel hose leads along the B bank tophose and runs across the front bracer to the catch can inlet. The outlet then goes to the A bank inlet manifold. In my case I have the extra air valve that OEM is wired to the compressor (not needed on my car for some reason, it ticks over fine with the compressor engaged) wired to the main 27 amp electric fan, so that in stationary traffic the alternator has a bit of charge when the fan is on. So the brass junction you see is the catch can outlet joining this tubing, and so into the manifold. But there would be no reason at all why it could not go into the spigot on the front end of the manifold, if that was made a touch bigger in diameter.
Since fitting absolutely no leaks, no adverse effects, and in 2,000 km about 2mm on the catch can dipstick, if that.