It ran fine before I took it apart, replaced injector hoses, seals, pintle caps and filters, new cap and rotor, plugs and wires and now it won't start. Fuel pump cycles, appears to have good spark but nothing. Looking for suggestions as where to start.

 

Good spark but is it in the right place - fuel pump cycles but does it deliver anything - crack a line and see - check and recheck connections especially the injectors if you didn't replace the old n crusty injection harness. Beyond that if you give it some of this




and it still won't run you don't have spark or it is occuring in the wrong place and it may indicate this by trying to burn off your eyebrows - the V12 spits fire if provoked, if it does run you have a fueling issue

 

As Ben says, you HAVE to know if you have fuel being injected whilst its cranking (not just pump priming on initial ignition turn-on). And do you have sparks WHEN its cranking, not just continuity down the leads?

Pull a plug and whilst it's cranking confirm you have sparks. And pull the plugs and confirm you have fuel being injected when cranking

The problem is either no fuel being injected when cranking, OR no sparks when being cranked. Just work out which one and then you know how to attack it.

Good luck

Paul

 

BenKenobi's advice on using canned ether should be painted on every workshop wall for all to see!

No start, despite good battery and adequate cranking speed?

Then . . . No spanners. No mess. No guesswork, A 5 second spray of ether into each air intake and observe . . .
.

• if engine starts, runs for for say 10 seconds, then stumbles and dies . . . you have a "no fuel" issue;
• if engine coughs, spits, singes eyebrows . . . you have an "ignition timing" or "valve timing " issue;
• if engine remains as dead as a dodo . . . you have a "no spark" issue.

This is an unambiguous, quick and easy first step to your fault-finding.

Cheers and best wishes,

 

It runs just fine now that the distributor isn't out 180 degrees. The giveaway was when it farted out the exhaust while cranking it.
I'm used to the drive slot for the rotor being on the business end of the rotor, Lucas didn't do it that way, should have checked
The idle picked up 300 rpm, could be the fact the vacuum advance works now or it's just too far advanced.
Next project is to set the timing.

 

Goodo.

Have a read of the attachment, might help a tad.