I have been working on the car for about a month so it has been sitting but I replaced my thermostats, got my radiator cleaned and what not, new hoses, electric fan, and new belts and all that is good and well but now my car won't start.

So it ran fine before I started tearing it apart but it would run hot hence all the work, but now it turns over and won't start. I can hear fuel pump running and my battery is freshly charged so where should I start looking to fix this problem? I made sure I have everything I unplugged plugged back in and correctly.

Side note it did just get cold here, ex. mid 30s, when Ive tried starting it. Do these engines have trouble starting in the cold?

 

Are you sure EFI temp sensor is plugged in. L/H front if l remember correctly.

 

I plugged it in yes, I may need to replace it, it looked original.

 

CJW
Check for fuel by removing a plug and seeing if it is wet. Check for spark by asking someone to turn the ignition while you hold a plug lead 1/4 inch from the engine (with insulated pliers) and see if you have a big fat blue spark. That will give us somewhere to start.
Greg

 

Alright thanks I will do that
, just in case it is the temp sensor I'm getting a new one, even if its not it can't hurt anything.

 

An inductance timing light, or even the old "in series ones" can be used to detect spark in the HT.


carl

 

Back in June I posted and requested help for a no start condition titled "Radio On Engine Shut Down". This followup is long overdue and may be helpful to you and others. My previous post indicated that I had done the following:
1. Checked power distribution from ignition to relays
2. Tested main and pump relays with a relay tester
3. Installed new fuel filter
4. Tested fuel pressure and installed new regulators
5. Checked spark at plug wires
6. Replaced CTS
7. Checked ATS
In addition, I also tested resistance (but not a scope pattern) for both crank sensors, and all of the above seemed within acceptable limits. Superchargedtr6 suggested crank sensor loss of magnetism, or a cooked CTS wire. The solution came following a desperate search and a post stating that given the condition where there is: no injector pulse, no spark, and no fuel pressure, it is an almost positive indication of crank sensor failure. I believe this advice was from Doug Dwyer. After testing all three again, and finding this to be the case, I am happy to report that after replacing both crank sensors my 89 Marelli car starts and runs as it should once again! I believe in my case there was an intermittent failure of these sensors resulting in spark and fuel pressure during prior tests, and finally a complete failure. Much appreciation for all of your help and advice, and a happy and safe holiday season to all!

 

I wish that was my problem as it seems a lot easier to deal with but mine doesn't have the Morelli ignition. It has the Lucas ignition system that was not fitted with crank sensors.

 

Can you give a better description of "doesn't start"? Mine also has the Lucas ignition and I had a similar problem.

For example, does it start very briefly, then just stop? Or does it crank and crank and crank and never do anything else?

You can cheat the coolant temperature sensor by unplugging the cable to it and putting a resistor across the harness terminal. A 2,000 ohm resistor will normally do the trick. If it starts (and stays started) with that resistor across the wiring harness terminals, then the coolant temp sensor is bad.

Anyway, so please describe in detail what it does when you try to start it.

Thanks,

John
1987 XJS V12

 

Sorry for the lack of detail, in future posts I will make sure to be more thorough but I seem to have found the problem. My fuel pump relay is bad. If previously thought my fuel pump was working as I had a friend said he heard it but that was false, It was never kicking on. After some more investigation I found the relay was corroded as well as a wire leading to it and it was causing the failure.

Are there any places you would suggest to get the relay from?

 

Yeah, the local parts house. But, not as Jaguar part. that just means bigger $'s!!!


It is probably a four pin Bosch type. Generic 30 or 40 amp units do just fine. Also sold on the wire display as a kit to hook up driving lights.


It may be a 5 pin unit. But, they are also available as generic units.


Check your wire schematic. Or merely, the unit itself.


Carl

 

Alright Thanks!