Gentlemen:
I REFUSE TO ADMIT DEFEAT AND SURRENDER TO THE DEALER!!!
the problem: No power to fuel pump:
I've taken white plug off and no power.
Checked: (all ok)
1. Fuses
2. fuse links in trunk
3. inertia switch
4. relays
5. put gas down throttle body car runs
6. security module in trunk
This problem occurred while trying to start the car while jumping it, it wanted to fire but engine turned over too slow. Put in a new battery and that's where I'm at.
Was tempted to dump the gas on the engine and light it off, but I have the Jaguar Chrome wheels and new tires couldn't do it!!LOL
Please forward suggestions.

SEMPER FI

BOB

 

If you jumper power to the output pin of the relay socket
can you hear the pump spin? Do this for both pumps.

The wiring diagrams are available for download in links
found in the stickies at the top.

 

The relays work I switched them around and still no power. There is power to the relay.

Bob

 

Not the question I asked.

I want to know what happens when you directly apply
power to the pumps so that it can be decided whether
the pumps are even alive.

 

My 99 XJR came to me with a restricted performance message so only one pump was working. While looking things over I found a suspicious, non-stock jumper connecting the grounds of both pump relays to another, non-stock ground adjacent to the relay box. I pulled the tank, replaced both pumps, removed the non-factory wiring and the car would not start. Tried but wouldn't catch. I put the jumper back in and it was fine. I ended up pulling the relays and flashing a thin coating of solder on all the terminals. I plugged them back in and have had no trouble since. Just like you, good relays, fuses, and power to the relay boxes but no fuel with the contact force available from the relay socket. It's easy to try and almost free. I have no idea what it would have to do with having to jump the car but maybe it was just an unrelated coincidence...

 

Is there a fuse between the relays and the pump? I'll try jumping the relays if that doesn't work then I' stumped!

Thanks for all your help.

 

There is a fuse in the supply line to the pump relay. Not in the line from the relay to the pump.

With the ignition on, there is no continuous power to the pumps until after the engine starts. There is a 1s period when you switch the ignition on, that one of two pumps is engaged. The other pump only comes on above 3000 rpm.

You can temporarily remove a relay and try a jumper across the 2 relay points, left to right. If you do this , with the ignition on, you should hear the pump run, but i would caution that it could also over heat the wiring, as the pumps can fail in a short circuit.

If you can measure resistance, it should be around 2~3 ohms from the left relay connection to ground.

I have just experienced and replaced both pumps, the aux pump failed some time ago, but did not stop operations but when the primary pump failed, no operation. One was open circuit and the other was near short circuit. Will open up to see what failed.

Replaced with 2 airtex pumps from Rockauto, $45 each, and two filters. These were a direct fit to original mounts, but did have to re purpose the original rubber isolation mounts. I have photos i will post later today. Took me about 6 hours, including a store run for a quick connection release tool.

Final note. Ensure the connections from tank connector, through to the pump are good and have no signs of heating and that you check the resistance to the pumps from the connector, before you place the tank bank in.

 

Remove the main fuel pump relay in the boot fuse/relay box and place a 'jumper-wire' directly across 30/87 terminals (#3 and #5 if that is the way they are marked). The key does NOT need to be turned on.

That will power the main pump (1) if the wires are intact or the pump is OK.

The AUX pump (2) is another relay in the same box. You might try to 'jump' that relay also to see if it is OK.

2xx
.1
.x
.x
.x

The 1 is main pump and 2 is AUX pump.

bob gauff

 

Thanks all, of course will come on trying to fix this if I find the answer I'll let you all know.

 

I jumped the relays and noticed the wires got warm but no fuel pumped out (i released the fuel line at the rail).
Am I correct in assuming that the pumps are running? If so then the only logical thought would be the fuel filter.

thanks

 

Another possibility is that the pumps have an internal short.

 

The pumps are likely SEIZED!!!!!!!!!!

bob gauff

 

Bob I thought of that yet when I pull the white plug I get no power to it. No cuts or chaffing on wires.
That's what got me stumped!
I was able to pull fuel (in quantity) through the line so filter I assume is ok.
Engine runs if gas poured down it. If I change the pumps I'll do it by cutting the parcel shelf which is how I did it on my XKR.
Once again thanks

 

If you place a 'jumper' in the relay panel AND still get NO POWER to the harness connector on the EVAP FLANGE then you have a WIRING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob gauff

 

That's what I figured but prior to this problem car ran fine, nothing was done in the trunk.
Here's a question does the inertia switch just shut off the fuel pumps or the whole engine?
I checked the switch button was not popped up, car runs if gas poured in so I'm assuming switch is ok. Is there another fuse other then in the trunk?
Thanks for all your help

 

Keep in mind that power to the fuel pump relays is cut off by the ECU as a safety feature a few seconds after turning the ignition on if the engine does not start.

 

FIFY

Are you looking at the Electrical Guide for any info???

You cannot just check relays and fuses and then give up.

There are wires, fuses, diodes, connectors, modules, switches..................................

You 'jumped' the relay and noticed that the wires 'got warm'. If you reference the Electrical Guide you can go to the next connector in the circuit and determine if there is power to it. Them move to the next................the next............... the next.........

Wires don't get warm unless current is flowing!!!!!!!!!!!

You need to find out where it is drawing and where it stops.

Start at one end and work your way along.

Also remember that just because you have positive and your test light is grounded to the battery does NOT mean that the circuit you are testing has an earth connection also. 20 years ago I had a customer that could not figure out why his fuel pump did not operate on his XJ40. He had positive to the circuit so he thought it MUST be the pump.

I checked the circuit and he had NO GROUND to the pump!!!!!!!!!
You NEED both positive and negative to complete a circuit!!!!!!!!!!

bob gauff

 

I HAVE SURRENDERED !! JUST SENT THE JAG TO JAGUAR FOR THERE TAKE ON IT
I will let you all know.
Thanks for all your support and guidance on this issue.

bob

 

Did u find out what it was? i have the same problem. 03 Xjr