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Just push them in. Nothing special required. New O rings are good. New fuel baskets. Test for operation and spray pattern but assuming all is good just push them in (making sure you have the electrical plug connection oriented in the correct direction) and then put the locking plates on and put the nuts on.
It is a good plan to reduce the length of the hoses from the fuel rail to the injectors by about 10mm. This greatly improves hot starting problems though fuel evaporation. Then install the hoses onto the injectors and fix the injectors into the inlet manifold; only then push the fuel rail onto the injector hoses.
These threads about injector cleaning and fitting need reading in full, as they contain some parts that turned out to be not a good plan and this was explained and corrected in later posts; but it also contains useful stuff about injector cleaning and fitting: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...wanted-281293/
Thanks guys, I just purchase new Bosch fuel injectors 162-EV14 with four nozzles, o-rings, upper cups, stainless steel studs and mounting clamps. I will cut the hoses down to the 4.5mm length.
Thanks guys, I just purchase new Bosch fuel injectors 162-EV14 with four nozzles, o-rings, upper cups, stainless steel studs and mounting clamps. I will cut the hoses down to the 4.5mm length.
I do not think that these EV14 injectors will fit a standard 5.3 litre HE V12 inlet manifold. And hoses of 4.5mm, what are these?
This is what a standard injector for your car should look like:
Last edited by Greg in France; Feb 27, 2026 at 02:55 PM.
Hope your supplier isn't leading you astray, 162 suffix is an EV1, single nozzle, they're a low impedence single pintle.
An EV14 profile won't fit standard 5.3 manifold unless you get clever with the O rings as the standard 5.3 inlet won't play nice with standard O rings, the injector pocket must be a smooth almost mirror finish with an absolute max dia of 14mm, ideally 13,7 - 13.8, EV14 will likely be high impedence too (though I think you can get low impedence versions, the standard ECU won't like high impedence unless you get rid of the resistor pack and even then it might not be able to fire them. The standard EV1 is easy to open for the ECU but then requires the resistor pack to maintain the open state or the ECU gets fried I don't know if it would have the beans to open an high impedence. The rubber sealing rings used on the EV1's won't work, EV14's don't take hoses either.so fuel rail needs work.or you need to machine hose tail adapters,
The EV1 uses the clamping pressure of the retention plates to press the injector into the seal which is more like a rubber washer than an o ring, there is also a secondary seal inside the collar that the retention plate clamps down on, sits in the groove in the larger body.
Both of these in this image are EV1, the version shown on the right was fitted to the 6.0 but the fuel rails are totally different (and harder to find than a unicorn in decent condition), notice the '162' on the injector on the left (last three digits of number)
I may have been missled with the description of the product I purchased. I have Bosch 161 in my car. Ben is selling Bosch162. It looks like the Bosch 162 will fit in my car but it is not a EV14 and it does not have four nozzles. Below is the description Ben sent me and attached are pictures of the products I purchased. Are all the parts in the pictures what I need? Is there anything missing in the picture or the description to reassemble the fuel rail? I purchase the injectors from this supplier because he was recommended to me in this forum. I liked the price but the cost went way up with the shipping, taxes, tariffs and other fees. If I knew the total cost would be this expensive and does not have the short hoses I probably purchased the parts from some one on this side of the pond. It is my understanding the long hoses are 9mm and the short hoses are 4.5mm is this incorrect?
Just a quick tip on installing fuel injectors with new O-rings. According to Bosch, the new O-rings should be lightly lubricated with O-ring grease (silicone grease, dielectric grease, disc brake caliper grease, etc.) or clean engine oil. This reduces the force required for installation as well as the risk of damaging the new O-rings.
I learnt how to service my V12 injectors, replace the fuel rail hoses with the Mr Injector kit, and get my V12 running smoothly again from Adam Clementson's Living with a Classic YouTube channel here....
. Terrifically informative videos. In fact, if I hadn't watched these before buying a V12, I would have never purchased one, and never had so much "Jaguar fun".
Also, in following the video, I attached all of the serviced injectors back onto the fuel rail before fitting the whole unit back onto the engine. I didn't find it too hard to refit. Start from the front two injectors and work back to the firewall. Get their hold-down plate on with just a small turn of the two nuts on each and then keep working until the injectors are fitted securely. Hope this helps.
Last edited by asingleton; Mar 2, 2026 at 04:13 AM.
Just a quick tip on installing fuel injectors with new O-rings. According to Bosch, the new O-rings should be lubricated with O-ring grease (silicone grease, dielectric grease, disc brake caliper grease, etc.) or clean engine oil. This reduces the force required for installation as well as the risk of damaging the new O-rings.
Cheers,
Don
This has been our workshop practice for ALL O-rings in ANY application, not only to reduce force during fitment, but also to prevent pinching that can produce a barely visible nick in a brand new O-ring. This includes coolant seals and connections (as on Jag XJ, S, X and later), hydraulic fittings (use hydraulic fluid) etc.
Aside . . . I note from a plumber mate that this extends to all residential tapware where petroleum jelly is the preferred medium.
