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I mean in relation to the actual attachment to crankshaft. Earlier damper is essentially 2 piece, useing the cone and matching damper while the 6 litre uses a parallel bore ie. 1 piece damper. As a unit they will interchange but l don't think any 6 litre units (1 piece) used V belts on the damper itself, only the micro on XJS and serpentine on the saloons l believe. The bolt on pulley in multi V belt configuration will still bolt on though.
So, in principle, one could use the later damper and chnage the alternator oulley to micro V and be in business on a 5.3?
I got dug in to tackle replacing the crankshaft damper, and let me say that @Grant Francis is truly the wizard. His trick of leveraging a breaker bar on the concrete and then "pull the HT leads and 'flick' the starter" was magic. Not only did it make loosening the damper bolt easy, it really protected the engine. When I replaced the damper and was tightening the bolt, I had a difficult time keeping the flywheel from turning at higher torque and had a couple of slips -- no harm because the engine was turning clockwise on tightening; however, it could have been bad news when trying to get the bolt undone. It was a real challenge to get 150 lbs of torque onto the bolt. It really pays to search the archives when tackling something like this. Thanks Grant!
I didn't end up removing the radiator as there was very little "cat hair" and debris between it and the condenser (it wasn't that long ago mileage-wise that I had it all out before). I have a long flexible crevice tool for a shop vac that allowed me to clear up what little was there. The crevice tool is a soft rubber so it didn't bend or damage any fins.
Question: Since I had to remove the air vent piping and banjo bolt to remove the radiator cover plate, will I have to re-bleed the system?
One more question in addition to the bleeding one above. The two wires that go to this sensor, does it matter which one goes to which spade connector?
Help on both questions is much appreciated.
Thanks
Doesn't matter on the sensor question. On the bleed / banjo question, bleeding has never required more than running motor for a few minutes, shutting off and removing crossover pipe filler cap, top up if required and cap back on, done.
FYI, if anyone needs a new damper -- rather than throwaway my old factory damper, I contacted Damperdudes to see if they wanted it as core. They sent me a UPS label to send it to them and he just emailed me that it is rebuilt and available for sale.
Too late for me. I just had to purchase a new Marelli damper for my project car almost $200. Nothing compared to the OEM tensioner. $742.29 plus shipping to FL. After I made the purchase I saw an aftermarket tensioner for 1/2 the price. My luck!!!!!!
