Dead power windows
#3
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#5
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OK, good, the earlier wiring arrangement....
The relay and circuit breaker are both on the RH component panel, below the glove box.
The circuit breaker is about 1.0" x 1.25" and has a brown wire and a brown/blue wire. If the breaker is good both wires will be 'hot' at both times...brown wire is constant voltage from the battery and brown/blue is output to the relay. You can check with a test light or simply jump the terminals and see if anything changes.
The relay is black and round, unless it has already been changed. It has white/pink, black, and brown/blue wires.
Terminal 86 on the relay, white/pink wire, is 12v with key on
Terminal 85 on the relay, black wire, is ground
Terminal 30 on the relay, brown/blue wire, is 12v from the circuit breaker
Terminal 87 on the relay, brown/blue wire, is 12v output to the window switches
If you don't have a test light you can unplug the realy and jump 30 and 87. If the windows now work then the realy is dead or it isn't being triggered by the white/pink wire
A generic 'Bosch style' 30 amp accessory relay can be swapped in.
Cheers
DD
The relay and circuit breaker are both on the RH component panel, below the glove box.
The circuit breaker is about 1.0" x 1.25" and has a brown wire and a brown/blue wire. If the breaker is good both wires will be 'hot' at both times...brown wire is constant voltage from the battery and brown/blue is output to the relay. You can check with a test light or simply jump the terminals and see if anything changes.
The relay is black and round, unless it has already been changed. It has white/pink, black, and brown/blue wires.
Terminal 86 on the relay, white/pink wire, is 12v with key on
Terminal 85 on the relay, black wire, is ground
Terminal 30 on the relay, brown/blue wire, is 12v from the circuit breaker
Terminal 87 on the relay, brown/blue wire, is 12v output to the window switches
If you don't have a test light you can unplug the realy and jump 30 and 87. If the windows now work then the realy is dead or it isn't being triggered by the white/pink wire
A generic 'Bosch style' 30 amp accessory relay can be swapped in.
Cheers
DD
#6
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Comox Valley, British Columbia
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Thanks
OK, good, the earlier wiring arrangement....
The relay and circuit breaker are both on the RH component panel, below the glove box.
The circuit breaker is about 1.0" x 1.25" and has a brown wire and a brown/blue wire. If the breaker is good both wires will be 'hot' at both times...brown wire is constant voltage from the battery and brown/blue is output to the relay. You can check with a test light or simply jump the terminals and see if anything changes.
The relay is black and round, unless it has already been changed. It has white/pink, black, and brown/blue wires.
Terminal 86 on the relay, white/pink wire, is 12v with key on
Terminal 85 on the relay, black wire, is ground
Terminal 30 on the relay, brown/blue wire, is 12v from the circuit breaker
Terminal 87 on the relay, brown/blue wire, is 12v output to the window switches
If you don't have a test light you can unplug the realy and jump 30 and 87. If the windows now work then the realy is dead or it isn't being triggered by the white/pink wire
A generic 'Bosch style' 30 amp accessory relay can be swapped in.
Cheers
DD
The relay and circuit breaker are both on the RH component panel, below the glove box.
The circuit breaker is about 1.0" x 1.25" and has a brown wire and a brown/blue wire. If the breaker is good both wires will be 'hot' at both times...brown wire is constant voltage from the battery and brown/blue is output to the relay. You can check with a test light or simply jump the terminals and see if anything changes.
The relay is black and round, unless it has already been changed. It has white/pink, black, and brown/blue wires.
Terminal 86 on the relay, white/pink wire, is 12v with key on
Terminal 85 on the relay, black wire, is ground
Terminal 30 on the relay, brown/blue wire, is 12v from the circuit breaker
Terminal 87 on the relay, brown/blue wire, is 12v output to the window switches
If you don't have a test light you can unplug the realy and jump 30 and 87. If the windows now work then the realy is dead or it isn't being triggered by the white/pink wire
A generic 'Bosch style' 30 amp accessory relay can be swapped in.
Cheers
DD
Next question. My RS window only clunks for a second going up or down. Any ideas. I tried to remove door panel but couldnt unfasten armrest/handle. Any ideas.
Last question. On console there are switches for seat botton heat. Is other power back function or back heat. Either way it does nothing.
#7
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Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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I remember those days! I got out of the musclecar thing....and then found out I couldn't afford to get back in! I still work on 'em all the time though. They just belong to people with losts more money than I have, though
Next question. My RS window only clunks for a second going up or down.
Not sure what you mean by "...only clunks for a second...". Are you saying it clunks and then won't move? Or it clunks for a second but otherwise works OK?
Well, either way, it'll be hard to know much without the door panle removed
Any ideas. I tried to remove door panel but couldnt unfasten armrest/handle. Any ideas.
Been a few years since I last touched one. What part of the removal process are you stuck on, specifically? Some bells might go off in my head
Last question. On console there are switches for seat botton heat. Is other power back function or back heat. Either way it does nothing.
Cheers
DD
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#8
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Comox Valley, British Columbia
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I remember those days! I got out of the musclecar thing....and then found out I couldn't afford to get back in! I still work on 'em all the time though. They just belong to people with losts more money than I have, though
Not sure what you mean by "...only clunks for a second...". Are you saying it clunks and then won't move? Or it clunks for a second but otherwise works OK?
Well, either way, it'll be hard to know much without the door panle removed
Been a few years since I last touched one. What part of the removal process are you stuck on, specifically? Some bells might go off in my head
One for the heater, the to inflate/deflate the lumbar support bladder inside the seat
Cheers
DD
Not sure what you mean by "...only clunks for a second...". Are you saying it clunks and then won't move? Or it clunks for a second but otherwise works OK?
Well, either way, it'll be hard to know much without the door panle removed
Been a few years since I last touched one. What part of the removal process are you stuck on, specifically? Some bells might go off in my head
One for the heater, the to inflate/deflate the lumbar support bladder inside the seat
Cheers
DD
1. Window stuck up. The window only clucks and doesnt move. I tried to assist it but that didnt work.
2. I can get the clips loose and the 3 screws on bottom of panel off. It seems like the armrest and leather handle are secured. I dont want to pry the chrome piece off armrest if I dont know if thats right.
3. Last. Is there 1 pump for each seat of 1 for both? Where is it located? Where would relay be?
Thanks again
#9
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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Might be the felt channel is bunched up and jamming the glass. Just have to wait n see
2. I can get the clips loose and the 3 screws on bottom of panel off. It seems like the armrest and leather handle are secured. I dont want to pry the chrome piece off armrest if I dont know if thats right.
3. Last. Is there 1 pump for each seat of 1 for both? Where is it located? Where would relay be?
Thanks again
Thanks again
For relay location, fuses, etc....
-Go to the 'How To' sticky thread at the top of this section
-Select 'downloads'
-Select 'Tech Guides'
-Select 1988 MY Update
The 1988 update guide has info on the seat heater and lumbar system. Should be the same as 1989
Cheers
DD
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