XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Distributor & timing question.

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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 03:25 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Both springs are a tad loose at rest on my dizzy. The bigger one the most loose. This is because it is designed not to act until the dizzy has advanced a bit.
Sounds just like mine as well. Thanks Guys!

Chap
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 03:33 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Mine is the same as Gregs.

This might help later in voyage.
I noticed that adjuster mechanism when taking it apart. That's a pretty clever yet simple design for the fine adjustment. I also enjoyed the other pdf file you left earlier. Starting off with the JD and a tube, lol. First things first!

 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
NOPE..
I mention it coz some people get all carried away with things not as made, I dont.

Gravity will take of it, as will the SMALL spring of teh carbon brush pushing down.
Excellent, thanks Grant.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 04:56 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Mine is the same as Gregs.

This might help later in voyage.
Because heat and humidity have an impact on engine pinging or "knock," this should be done on the hottest dryest day your car will experience. If you do it on a very humid day or cool day the engine will be less susceptible to knock so you might advance it too much. Then when a hot dry day rolls around, it will knock. Just a precaution.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 05:15 PM
  #25  
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All back together and she runs! I am sure I got the timing very close, and everything is connected to it's proper place. Started right up but idling around 1,000 rpm. Up until now it was always at 600-700. Could it be a small timing change would do this? I took her for a run down the road, and all seems well except for the higher idle. No pinging and power seems the same as before. Did I miss something? or should I just adjust the idle and forget about it?
Thanks, Chap
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 08:43 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Chap1958
All back together and she runs! I am sure I got the timing very close, and everything is connected to it's proper place. Started right up but idling around 1,000 rpm. Up until now it was always at 600-700. Could it be a small timing change would do this?
Yes.

But also look for a disconnected vacuum hose or or any or vacuum leak

Cheers
DD
 

Last edited by Doug; Jul 17, 2020 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 02:49 AM
  #27  
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I am with Doug, and on coffee #7, and since its Saturday, add ons.

Attached is some light reading, since you are now a veteran V12 mechanic.

 
Attached Files
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AAV rebuild procedure.doc (2.24 MB, 47 views)
File Type: pdf
Adjusting the ECU fuel pot.pdf (795.3 KB, 97 views)
File Type: doc
HE Tune up.doc (27.0 KB, 43 views)
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 04:46 AM
  #28  
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Veteran V12 Mechanic? Hahaha, thanks Grant. I'll check the line to the vacuum advance. When reattaching the plug wires I could have knocked it off. The only other lines were the 2 to the Dist. cap, which look to be vents(?), and a line to the bellows.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 05:38 AM
  #29  
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You get what you earn from Downunder, and Greg of course, just hung up from him.

The cap hoses are just vents, and NO affect on vac leaks as such.

Vac advance and cruise yes.

However, a few degrees of advance as you have reseated the dizzy, will give a good few hundred revs, especially if those degrees gets the engine into that "sweet spot" it may have been just sitting outside of.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 01:53 PM
  #30  
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Checked for vacuum leaks, both hoses I removed were ok and seemed to be in good condition.Snugged them up with a couple of zip ties to be sure. I adjusted the AAV and the idle is fine now. Took a short drive and all seems well. The cooling system is going to get a good flush shortly and inspection, just want to get through the summer and enjoy the car a bit before tearing it all apart. The temp gage seems to settle just below the N. Fuel lines may have to happen sooner. Hoses on the engine have a tag and they are from 1985, plus there is a pretty good smell in the trunk too.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 10:35 PM
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Goodo.

Fuel hoses should be ABOVE the #1 place on that "to do" list you have.

Engine fires on these are REAL, and always fuel hose related. If there is an odour, thats it for me.

I will send you some more reading later, housework beckons.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 08:01 AM
  #32  
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As promised.

When you get to it, check the engine driven fan VERY carefully, especially if you still have the Yellowish fan. They crack around the hub. I missed one on mine in the very early days (pre Forums and computers), and a blade left the engine bay via the bonnet at very high speed, not funny at the time.

Have a read of the stickies at the top of this section, they will also add to your growing library.

If you are unsure, ask, I have many files on "how to" and Greg has many as well.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 08:37 AM
  #33  
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I love this forum!
 
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