I figured I would go exploring today and try to find if any fuses were blown in hopes that it would fix some issues I'm having (driver side mirror not working, instrument panel lights, blinkers not working, etc).

Here is what I found when i was snooping around under the hood:

1a) in the fuse box located above the wheel well on the driver side (2 fuse boxed here - 1 black/1 white) - I spotted a wire coming from a fuse. It was tucked in with the fuse as shown in the picture. The wire didn't lead anywhere and was just tucked away in the corner...also shown in the picture. Any idea what this could be or why it is tucked into a fuse???

http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/...613_175034.jpg
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/...613_175051.jpg


I removed the panel under the steering wheel to locate the main fuse box and here is what I found:

1b) Pavis Shock Sensor module. I assume this is from an old alarm a PO installed?? Is there anyway to reuse this alarm and reactivate?



2) I also spotted a tiny flip switch to the right of the steering column tucked away. It had an off and on position....currently flipped on. What is this for?
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/...613_171919.jpg
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/...613_171804.jpg

3) Noticed a loose red wire that looks like it was pullet from a wire nut or something. I'm concerned this could be causing issues. Have any ideas?
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/...613_172437.jpg

 

I think these are all aftermarket bits that have been deactivated. For example, no spade fuses were used on your model by the factory. Best to leave them alone and disconnecetd or remove them. It would be pretty likely that to try to reconnect them would foul up the standard system.

Greg

 

So I decided to ground the loose wire in the pic 1A above and see what the heck it does...cross your fingers.

Turns out the Pavis module is an old alarm system manufactured by a small Korean company. It took me about 2.5 hours to find anything on it on the web. Guess that was pointless since i can't use it or get support for it since they only deal in Korean with Korean support teams.

Thinking about getting one of those bulldog keyless entry modules and installing myself, but I don't have any knowledge of electronics and wiring etc. I'm such a newbie at this it pains me!!!!

 

theres a "adding remote entry" thread for the XJS in the last few pages.

also, that wire looks like an "add a circuit" to me.

 

Hey M90....any idea what the PO might have been trying to do with that wire and fuse?

I'll look up the remote entry thread...

 

Just started up the car and turns out that my dashboard is somewhat brighter now and all the bulbs are lit up. Changed them all a few days ago and only half the panel worked. Could this be tied to that red wire tucked into the fuse somehow. Anyone know what those fuses in the engine bay (driver side) control?

 

FWIW, I would strongly advise you to never adopt a 'suck it and see' method of fixing an XJS' electrics. The dashboard circuits have probably just made a bit of contact that was lacking after your bulb change. The fuses under the hood control headlights, horn, electric fan, etc and are nothing to do with the dashboard. The red wire is an aftermarket fix of some sort.

Doug explained, as far as the dashboard lights are concerned, that there is a blue plastic flexible circuit that is all over the back of the instrument cluster, with thin copper attached to it providing the actual circuits, which sends the current to the dash lights and instruments, and also provides an earth for them. This is both fragile, often corroded at the contacts and easily damaged when connecting/disconnecting the two big plugs that feed it from the loom. This item has probably just started to make a bit of contact where, after you reinstalled it, it was not. Next time (!) you have the instruments out, carefully clean the exposed contacts on the copper part.

As to the reversing light that no longer works (different thread): obviously there was current to the socket before you made the change. Sometimes LEDs work in one direction only, so try reversing the bulb in the socket. If that does nothing, reinstall the previously working bulb and see if it still works. If it does, duff LED, which you can prove by fitting the other LED and testing that one in the problem socket.

A great idea is to buy a tester screwdriver, this is a small screwdriver with a light in the handle and a wire coming out of the handle allowing it to be clipped to a nearby earth (basically any piece of unpainted bodywork or screw or bolt head). If the light lights up, you have current.

Greg

 

If you decide to buy a voltage tester you might as well get a continuity tester also. They are both very valuable tools, but, are not interchangeable. You can find them at parts stores, they are inexpensive and at times worth their weight in gold. The voltage testers usually have a very sharp pointed probe on the handle and an alligator clip attached to a wire. The continuity tester is similar. You may also want a couple of spare bulbs for the continuity tester in case you happen to grab it by mistake for a voltage check. Ask me how I know!!