Comrades,
I know many of you say to go with original parts for you car. I have been using Mobil 1 oil and now Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil since they came out with it in the 80's on all my cars. Just before I store my car for the winter I want to do my 1st oil change on her and was thinking about using Mobil 1 EP and a Mobil 1 filter. Any advice?
Thanks,
Jomo

 

OK, the car is gonna be in storage for a few months. The oil will be sitting in the sump doing absolutely nothing. That being the case it doesn't matter if it's Mobil 1 EP or ...whatever.

But do whatever makes you feel best . Nobody here will argue with you for that reasoning!


Cheers
DD

 

I buy yellow bottle. I need a lot of it (11 for the jag and 7.5 for the land rover, so it is good that it is half the price of mobil 1 but leading in detergents. Don't really want synthetic unless I rebuilt it, as it tends to find more oil leaks. Apparently some of the rotella is really good stuff too.

I used to put mobil 1 in it, but found myself putting it off because I cringed at the thought of spending almost 90 bucks to change my oil.

i don't really recommend STP filters, but sometimes it is all they have.

Also, the point that mobil one came out alongside the car doesn't matter, what ever is currently the best is all that matters, and it changes around from time to time. Just keep up to date on what is the best for the dollar in your car. Mine seems to like regular changes of the 20w-50 yellow bottle pennzoil. I wouldn't turn down a free change of castrol, mobil, or rotella, but it is only 15 bucks a jug and has a great additives package.

I have torn apart a fair number of nasty engines, so I know too well that keeping it clean is an essential part of keeping it lubricated. I like to mix about half a bottle of marvel mystery oil into my oil at every change.

 

I've never actually used Marvel Mystery Oil. Used to use quite a bit of additives, but I've cut back considerably. I don't even use seafoam right before an oil change.

I still like Lucas though. It's the only thing I'll put in an engine that isn't a full synthetic motor oil.

I like to do my oil changes with the coming of spring. It's symbolic. As the land is born anew, so too is my engine. Same thing with tuneups.

Are there any oils to avoid or preferred oils with the Jaguar? I have my preferences, that's for sure, I just want to know if those preferences are aligned with the car's.

 

there aren't really preferences to go along with brands, good oil is good oil. With difference engines mostly comes preferences on viscosity, most people around here know the v12 likes heavy 20w-50 and 10w-40. I have put 0w-40 in mine during the winter when I lived in georgia and it worked very well.

Also, seafoam doesn't do much and lucas is very bad for your oil. Marvel is basically a mixture of mineral oil that does a good job at cleaning, it is in many ways similar to transmission oil. Other than research, I also speak from personal experience. I have unlocked multiple engines that were sitting up with some MMO, most recently my MGB 1800 that sat since 1974. I changed the head gaskets on my girlfriends discovery and it was pretty gunked up inside for 100k miles. I cleaned it all up and have been putting MMO in it since, and it looks pristine under the valve covers now. I would like to keep it this way. 100k miles and the hydraulic lifters were all stuck from sludge and varnish, not cool.

Seriously though, stop the lucas. The little thing on the counter that looks cool is being turned like 10rpm by your hand. At hundreds or thousands of RPMs it foams. The fuel additive seems decent, better than seafoam, but I have used MMO with the same success in cleaning fuel systems.
Here is a pic of a 10w40 running at speed, normal on the left and with lucas on the right.

I am in no way saying MMO is a gift from god and everyone should use it and everything else sucks. Seafoam is very expensive and I have done research and seen tests causing me to doubt its credibility as well as the Lucas test here. I have used MMO and it has worked well for me and I know the formula is extremely simple, which I like. I have also used some great BG products. You can find a lot of info online and tons of pics and experience on bob is the oil guy. Nothing like checking out DOHC honda engine using a single oil its whole life to prove or disprove a brand or formulas ability to perform.

As far as oil brand, if you stick with the big guys you should be okay, but replacing regularly can be more important than what you use. I have seen engines destroyed using mobil 1 synthetic at horrible intervals and I have seen thrown rods from regular intervals of quaker state. I have also seen a really clean mazda engine with 200k used as a delivery vehicle that had extremely cheap off brand oil changed in it twice a month.

 

Holy crap, thanks for replying.

I haven't used Lucas in this car, and now there's no way in hell I will. The seafoam I only used right before an oil change cos I was convinced it was taking care of some of the crud and varnish, but I stopped that for fear of damaging any gaskets. Sounds like either way, I'm saving money. I think a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil is on the shopping list now.

I'd have more questions, but to derail a thread intentionally is not in my nature.

 

I have always used Mobil 1 full synthetic 15/50. I have about 175 k's and she does not burn a drop.

 

Doug,
The oil that I put in is not really for the winter break but rather for the spring when I take the car out of hibernation.
Jomo

 

I generally don't care about this stuff that much, but technically old oil will have some acids in it doing damage over the winter, so you should definitely change it.


Yeah that lucas test is with 10w-40 delo, that lucas is some bad stuff

 

Fair enough, but, still, you can use whatever oil you like best and are most comfortable with. That's my sage advice

But....

Your Jaguar doesn't actually require synthetic, nor anything special or exotic. It'll operate perfectly well and last a long, long time on boring oils.

Personally, I use whatever name brand is on sale that day, including NAPA's house brand.

The only thing that *might* be a concern, IMHO, is the zinc situation. A person could buy some ZDDP or such if that was a worry. I don't, but that's just me.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug,
You got my attention!
Please explain "the zinc situation".
Pete

 

You don't need or want MMO, Seafoam, or any other hokey additive. It's not the 1950's anymore.............

 

You guys could go here and get completely wrapped around the axle more then most "oil" threads!

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm

 

Hi,
Many of you talk about buying the cheapest oil. Not a problem with me. There are two reasons that I like Mobil 1 Oil. The first is that it was man made to do the exact job that is needed in a car, not some natural oil that happens to do a pretty good job. The 2nd reason, and this is a bonus for me, is that in the end it is cheaper for me to use this oil than other brands as it lasts for 15,000.
Jomo

 

Excuse my ignorance but what is Marvel Mystery Oil and would it be any good at sorting out a sticking hydraulic tappet (lifter?) on a Rover K series engine (Freelander).

 

There is a possibility of freeing a lifter with an engine (oil) cleaner, like BG or MMO, but it depends on how bad it is. If it isn't too bad, the extra cleaner can free up the lifter sometimes.

The lifters on my GF's discovery were ALL stuck solid. I removed them and soaked them in formula 88 ( like simple green degreaser) and they were still stuck in place. After an overnight soak, I got them loose by hammering the piston as far down as possible and them wrapping the tappet in the other direction to try and get the piston all the way back up. After that I resubmerged it in the degreaser. Eventually it moved enough that I could do this inside the solution, which I then repeated until the lifter was totally free. Doing it in the solution allowed new solution to work its way into places it couldn't reach before, finally freeing it. I was then able to remove the retainer and take the tappets apart to completely clean them.

Some people may say, just replace the tappets, but i was simply doing the head gaskets and didn't have any extra money, but I could definitely afford elbow grease and cleaner!

sorry if taking them out is too complicated of a job, but you can definitely save stuck lifters sometimes. hopefully running some engine cleaner will help.

I would try running an engine cleaner through your next 2-3 oil changes, if nothing happens you may have to take it out to free it.

 

Ok, ta, I'll pour some more stuff in and hope for the best.

 

Without completely tearing down and engine that is used as a daily driver, adding more cleaner is the only way I have ever managed to get a used engine cleaner. Additives may be better at keeping engines clean today, but I haven't experienced them doing any additional cleaning, whether it be kerosene,atf, mmo, or what have you

i am really not a snake oil kind of guy, I have used lucas before and did research on it, like I posted. I have also run seafoam in multiple cars, with zero results. The reason I still used MMO is that it has worked for me multiple times. It is basically just some stoddard solvent and mineral spirits, thats fine with me. If it costs 5 bucks to free an engine that has been sitting for over 30 years or an extra 5 bucks an oil change to get my valvetrain cleaned up, im totally cool with that.

If I opened the valve covers and it looked the same or the engine stayed where it was, I would happily stop using it.

 

I have used NAPA brand oil in all of my vehicles for years. Made by Valvoline, has to meet the same standards as every other brand. Good stuff, I change every 3K and get lots of miles out of my cars! You cant beat the value, especially when its on sale!!

 

I'm with Doug here. I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee that is now a standby vehicle due to age, not condition. I used it for my work vehicle. Construction management, sales, etc. Changed the oil in it 5 times. It turned 300,000 miles yesterday while on a 4 hour trip to pick up a set of wheels for my XJS. I always used the cheapest oil in it. I never ran it hard, abused it in any way. Just drove it.
I once bought a Oldsmobile with the 307 V8. The valve cover gaskets needed replacing. Old school mechanic friend of mine was over, and saw when I pulled the covers. It looked like Jello mold. He said "put the covers back on, and change the oil every 500 miles 3 or 4 times". I did, and then pulled the covers. Clean as could be. He was totally against additives, as they "may" cause clumps of deposits to break free, causing the oil pickup to possibly get clogged. Seems a filter change every now and then is sufficient to ensure about any engine. You can't wear oil out. Only dilute it with contaminates of combustion, metal wear.