I'll be pulling the V12 engine soon and have a few questions for anyone who has done this before. Is it easier to remove the entire drivetrain, or should I seperate the transmission, then pull the engine?
Also, does the crankcase oil pan have to come off to get to the recessed bolts on the torque converter?

 

Done it toooooo many times.

Engine/trans as a whole unit, 6 hours without much stress, as long as you keep at it and dont stop for refreshments every 10 minutes. It is a LARGE bit of metal, and chains are the preferred, coz if it drops/moves it will hurt whatever it lands on. I do not remove the coolant hoses, I just cut them as required, coz new are going back on without question.

Lower or REMOVE the steering rack, the sump will foul it, and bend the rack, not funny, or if the engine slips in the slings it will also bend the rack.

The converter bolts can be got at 2 ways. Drop the "tin" cover at the lower of the flywheel, and get to it, or there is a plastic/rubber plug behind the oil filter housing that is also designed to get at them.

 

Thanks! I was going to rent an engine hoist at $30/day, but now I'm starting to rethink that idea. Perhaps it would be better if I made a steel arch and used chain falls. I've had hydraulic lifts fail before while I was under a car, and I've never trusted them since.

 

Heh heh. Opinions vary. I prefer pulling the engine itself and leaving the trans in the car. Less to unhook, then engine can be lifted straight up and out without dragging an additional four feet of length along with it.

The downside is it can be awkward reaching all the transmission-to-engine bolts to uncouple the two. You need a long extension with swivel joints.

Either way it's a big messy job

Cheers
DD

 

I agree with Doug, as always, but with my limited physical ability, take it all out, and do it with room to move. Lying on my back under the beast is NOT my favourite position anymore. Also there is always some other thing that requires attention, and with the engine bay basically empty, its easy.

I have always used those engine cranes, or one armed bandits as we call them, and find it easier to wheel it away from the car, as apposed to pushing the car with tailshaft dragging, and exhaust dragging, too hard, but thats grumpy old me.

You could always line the engine bay with cemtex (C4) and light the fuse, it will come out easy, hahaha, JUST KIDDING, too many Jack Daniels.

Whatever you do enjoy the experience.

 

So it can be taken out separate from the transmission, it's just the transmission bolts that are the problem? I have long extensions, swivels and wobble tip extensions, so that wouldn't be an issue.
I'd have to roll the car away no matter what method I use to pull the engine. I'm working outside on a dirt driveway. (Yes, I know that sounds redneck, but if I build a garage my property tax increases another 6K!)

 

Yes. Remove the torque converter-to-flywheel bolts and the transmission-to-engine bolts and lift the engine away. You'll need something under the trans to keep it from flopping down. Once the engine is out you can devise a way to hold the trans up from above.





Wow ! That's a big hit.

Well, on the upside, the fluid spills will be absorbed quickly :-)

Cheers
DD

 

Jamey, if you are pulling this to bits outside in the dirt as you put it, you would be well advised to put a big thick tarpaulin down first and roll the car onto that.

Nothing worse than scrabbling around in the mud after a sudden downpour, with crud all over your tools, clods on your feet, and where the heck did that bolt get burried.

From experience with R/Rovers etc.


Spelling, S not C (and C4 not quite the same, but would have similar results). NOT ENOUGH Jack Daniels. LOL

Good luck with the removal.

 

I have several large pieces of cardboard that I use when I get under the car. It actually works pretty slick. It's easy to slide across (because I can't use a mechanics creeper in the dirt), any bolts or tools that fall are easily found, I can store it inside in case of rain, and when it gets soaked in oil I can just toss it or use it to start my woodstove this winter.

I hate working outside, but I hate the idea of throwing away 6 grand a year even more.

 

I don't know how similar these are to the XJ saloon, but I assume you have taken off the radiator and all the other gubbins. This makes it a lot easier, and you don't normally have to lift the engine so high. I remember I used a pair of certified lifting slings without any trouble onto a hook on a chain block and tackle suspended from an RSJ in my garage. As I also remember, I got the engine/trans in the air, then we pushed the car away from under it. Then engine split from trans, engine onto HD engine stand and strip-down commenced.