Guessing it goes into the fuel line to stop over pressure.

 

Did you need to go through the process discussed of removing the pipe attachments underneath or were you able to just bring it forward sufficiently to clear access to get to the pump?

Paul

 

No pipes underneath removed. Just like this video....


I found the pressure valve lol. It came with a spare, thats why l didnt know where it goes...lol

 

That's great to know that it can be done pretty easily and without disconnecting those pipes!

Well done!

Paul

 

I only wish I'd found that Video before replacing the Fuel Pump in my own Car, although I'm not even sure it was there at the time
But either way its still a PIA Job I really never ever want to have to do again!

 

Well, over the weekend l bit the bullet and had a very merry day in the boot undoing bolts and brackets everywhere to get to the tank. After disconnecting the fu****g fuel filler and pipe, l gently pulled at the right side, ever less gently as time went by, until l got close to getting into the tank. After more efffing around l got into the tank and with more little more effing around l got the fuel pump canister out...yeah baby. I had bought a used canister with a working pump and after a lot more effing about it was in, after checking it still ran l put some fuel back into the tank and by golly the car started...success.
On checking the original pump l could see that one of the contacts had got hot !!!!! and wasn't making contact anymore. So the pump itself was really ok. I'm not 100% sure now that the used pump was from a 4.0l or V12 but it works when sitting still.
List of things to get BEFORE l do it again :

1991-1992 v12 convertible.

New rubber gator for the fuel cap and for the fuel filler to tank pipe.
Maybe a used contact 90deg bend and a wire to the pump in case its burnt again.
New gauze fuel strainers.

AND as usual, Lots of alcohol and a swear box

 

Doesn't the V12 have two pumps in the canister?
My 94 V12 did and it was a PITA.
I had a problem with the connector melting also.

 

You put in a used fuel pump?

You should have replaced the hose that feeds the pump. It is a hose that stays submerged in fuel, so if it's 30 years old, it could be failing. Replacement fuel lines are not inexpensive, so don't think that you can use any rubber hose. Even the Gates Barricade hoses are not what is supposed to be used.

 

Yes l did, just to see that the problem was the fuel pump. I haven't put it all back together yet. Im looking for the best V12 replacement pump. so many from $20 to 300....
The 6.0l i believe had 2 pumps.
I had read that its impossible to find good hoses today.

 

The fuel pump brand to buy is Walbro. But ya know five years ago, I put two $19 no name Chinese fuel pumps into an XJ12 and it’s been flawless. I really cheaped out because I bought the car as a non-runner and I didn’t know it was a good car. I would’ve stumped up the cash for Walbro.

 

Get a name brand. Walbro, ACDelco, Denso. This isn't something you ever want to do again.

For hoses, you just need to find one with the right rating. You're looking for SAE 30r10...it won't be cheap, expect to pay at least a $2 an inch.

 

I will strongly suggest by passing the internal fuel pump and going with a pre-facelift style so that you can clean/replace it easily. i am guessing that anything less than a complete tank acid wash is going to still have a lot of rust and dirt residue in the tank that will get sucked or floated into the system. Also pull out the sump tank and and clean the inside as well as the sock filter.
And finally pull all the EFIs and refurbish/clean them and check spray pattern. Replace basket filters and "O" rings.
You are in this far. Best to do the whole system instead of constantly chasing issues.

 

I dug into this fairly recently. the facelift tanks tend to look really good, even after 30 years.

I like the idea of having a pump outside of the tank, but I suspect the new pump and hose will outlast me at this point.

There is no sump tank.