Am l missing something ?

Tank moves, Right hand side comes out about 6", but the left side moves only a few inches.... Is there something still connected behind the left side ?

 

I know on later cars the fuel in let and return lines are under the tank and must be disconnected.
Don't know when this change happened.

 

Thanks.
I just saw that on a photo from Ebay. So l've got to get under the car....Dam.

 

It's a real bear to get at the "D" ring capture rings and sometimes those hoses don't want to be pulled.
My arms were too short to reach up into the top of the diff hump and get at everything.
Use long reach pliers or fashion a hook to pull the "D" ring wires.
Once the rings are out, if the hoses don't come loose, try twisting them to break them free.
To reattach the hoses, you may need to reshape the rings so they are tight, before pushing the hoses on.
Replace O-rings with new Viton ones and pre-lube the connectors before reconnecting.

 

Hi Malc

I'm not gonna Sugar Coat this for you, as removing the Fuel Tank, is the Job from Hell and if you think that this sounds bad, just wait till you try and put it back, not of course forgetting a New Fuel Pump!

If you ever thought about ending it all, then this could be about the perfect time, as this is such a Horrible job, that when everyone wonders what happened to you, they will almost certainly say, that Malc must have drowned in the tears of his own disappointment!

So as much as it goes against the grain, this is probably one job that I would willingly give to a Shop, as having done this job myself on the same car twice, it is one of those job you'd wish you never started

Except of course its too late now, you have! and so you will need a massive great Fridge Full of Beer for this one

In which Case you may also need, my all singing and dancing guide to how I managed to do it and come out the other side

How to remove the Fuel Tank and replace the Fuel Pump on a 1995 XJS 4.0L Convertible Including Shedloads of Photos from Page 90 onwards

Looking at where you are at now, you can't pull the Fuel Tank out, as the Fuel lines on the LHS are the one big thing that's holding you back, apart from the Fuel Filler Tube and The Filler Cap as well as the breather tube that is connected to it and those on there own are a Nightmare of Epic Proportions to pull out

As for undoing the Fuel Lines that are connected to the Tank, you need a Special Jaguar Tool to remove them, I mean you didn't think that it would be that easy, or then again maybe you did?

The good News is you can make one, out of a length of 1/2 inch Copper Water Pipe, where you will find the Instructions for this somewhere in that Thread

The Metal ends of the Fuel Pipes are pushed into 'O' Rings in the Metal Tubes sticking out of the Tank and so you need the Special Tool which you can make, to Push and Compress the 'O' Rings, while you Pull the Spring Clips out from the Side and then once having done so Pull the Fuel Pipes out

Nothing to it really, except that the Cage is right in the way! which easily turns that easy job into a big problem but whatever you do, please don't lose those Clips, or you could have a problem finding replacements

Everything else you need to do, should be explained in the Thread, along with lots of Photos, that will hopefully help

Good Luck and come back if you get any probs

Alex

 

Alex,
I did the job with very little experience as a mechanic and almost zero Jaguar experience.
My intention was to show that it can be done but it's VERY uncomfortable to do it.
You don't need ANY special tools, but you might need to improvise some hacks.
I didn't destroy the special clips when I ripped them out but I did have to reshape them a bit.
Even if you did destroy them, they ARE available at NOT an unreasonable cost.
Farming out this job to a shop would cost more than the car is worth, even if you could find a shop willing to do it.
There are probably no mechanics that would have ANY experience with this job.
My biggest question is this really required to fix the car?????
Steve

 

Hi Steve

Having to Remove the Tank or even pull it back far enough to replace the Fuel Pump is a Nightmare! and that is why a Shop might Charge you $2000-$3000 to do this Job for you and bear in mind that they have all the equipment that most people may not have. as well as other guys around to help

So if you or anyone else can easily earn $2000 or $3000 then getting a Shop to do the Job, could really be money well spent to save you all the Stress and Strain of having to do this yourself, as it is far more awkward than it would appear, with Zero Job satisfaction as it's a drudge all the way through

Everything but everything needs to come out of the Boot/Trunk before you even start and when you take the Gas Strut out that Boot/Trunk Lid weighs a Ton!

So the only thing that you can do in order to help yourself, is to try and negotiate a good price by making sure that you don't come across as a 'Punter' as we say in the UK

Don't look Rich! look poor like me but act as if you know what you are doing, as well as everything this job entails as that is the only way that you won't get ripped off, so if it were me, my opening bid would be $500=$1000 though if you go to a Main Dealer then it could be Considerably more

I just decided to do it myself because I like trying to do these impossible jobs, even though most of the time I don't know what I'm doing

But that's just me

 

I guess I should have asked Mal4d why the heck they were trying to remove the tank in the first place.
When I did mine, I was trying to solve a problem that wasn't even inside the tank.
Sure it was an interesting exercise, and I found issues not related to my problem.
None of the hose clamps inside the tank were tight enough to be safe.
I would have liked to have been working on other more satisfying projects.
There was no way I could afford to pay even an independent Jaguar specialist.
Any other level of mechanic would have been lost trying to guess what to do.

 

Hi Steve

I think Malc had a Fuel Problem, so hopefully after Checking all the Relays and the Fuses

Malc may have had no option but to replace the Fuel Pump, which is an In-Tank Fuel Pump, as most of us know and Yes you are right, as not all of to-days Mechanics would even know where to Start or What to do

Totally different Story with the V12 where if needs be you Can Change the Fuel Pump by the side of the road in about 30 Minutes and that is why I always carry a spare one

 

Alex.
The car has sat for at least 6 years if not more outside in the Florida heat and storms. Fuel cap etc and filler open to the elements. He said that they couldn't get it to run on the fuel tank, only spraying starter fluid into the air intake. I had hoped to get the tank out and do a cleaning and re-piping job.
So l guess i'll carry on and leave the tank in place and work on it while l try and get the rust sorted.... headache enough there.

Thanks all.

 

Hi Malc

Then you might be better off ditching that system and then replacing it with an external fuel pump like they use on the V12

That's almost certainly what I would do, if I ever had to replace that dreaded internal Fuel Pump ever again

Just use the same Fuel Tank with a Sump Tank and then you can Gravity Feed it to a New Location nearer the Engine

Where by way of a Bonus, instead of using Internal 'Uber Expensive Fuel Pumps' at $200 a pop instead you can use 'El Cheapo' Generic ones as fitted to loads of Cars at about $40

 

Having just replaced the fuel pump on a 1992 Facelift XJS convertible, I find this thread slightly alarmist. It wasn’t that bad for me!

Don’t remove the hoses on the bottom of the tank. Disconnect the fuel filter to tank hose (screws in) and the Legris connector from the return hose (The Legris connector is like a little sharkbite, you compress the fitting itself and pull it off. The thing you compress is the metal ring on the pipe end of the hose connector.. it goes into the fitting, releasing the fitting, letting you pull it back all simultaneously). That leaves two short hoses connected to the bottom of the tank and present no obstacle to removing the tank entirely.

Presumably you have already removed the fuel tank filler, and any related hoses in the trunk.

In the trunk itself, you need to remove the black sheet metal panel that holds up the drivers side trunk lid strut. You’ll need something to hold up the trunk lid now… broom handle or whatever. I didn’t remove the passenger side but you might as well for as clear as possible access.

Then the tank itself… pull the drivers side out hard maybe 2-3-4”… then wiggle the passenger side out a little. Then pull that drivers side hard again… wiggle the passenger side. Once you have it out a little, get it as straight as you can, but tilt the entire tank down and rearward. Then pull it right out. Pull hard! If it hangs, use a flashlight an see where the seam of the tank is rubbing on the body and tilt that tank up or down give yourself that literal millimeter more clearance you need.

 

BTW I did this because I got water in the tank. There was rust in the tank. To clean the tank I got Delphi Gas Tank Cleaner at Autozone (not on shelf, it was in the back)

https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

This removed the loose rust and really cleaned the tank up nice. It is not a rust remover though. Use this first even if your tank is rusty just to remove the dirt and oils.

On another car with a seriously rusty tank, I bought a product called Rust 911 off Amazon. This is a lower cost version of Evaporust. Rust 911 can be rather economically mixed up as a two gallon batch for $35. Dump it in th bottom of the tank and let it sit. Flip the tank on its back and let it sit. I have a 20+ gallon bath I used to soak a rust axle, and I pumped the rust 911 into a gas tank that was still in a car once… it had a drain so it just came out the bottom and was pumped back in again. But you probably dont’ need to do all that effort.

Rust911: Makes 8-Gallons of Rust Remover Dissolver - Economical, Safe-to-Use, No Acids - Fast Rust Removal without Sanding or Harsh Chemicals - Ultra-Concentrated 1/2-Gallon Bottle https://a.co/d/gHNFD4x

 

Completely agree Alex! I have done this on a Range Rover in the past with absolutely no problems at all.

 

Hi Greg

Cheers!

That's good to know, as replacing that In-Tank Fuel Pump is a Total PIA

Alex

 

The pain of the first time I've done it exactly as Jagsandmgs has described it on post #12. And I've removed the tank many a times since. The factory service manual's way of removing the clips is totally f'd up idea even if you have the car up on a lift. The only reason I could think of Jaguar's (Ford) method has some value is that their method avoids draining the entire fuel supply and return lines and the rails and if the check/one way valves in the tank are still fully functional. Good luck trying it the factory way! In any case, with whatever method you go forward you should have evacuated all the fuel as much as possible before you disconnect anything. Keep in mind you still open up the fuel delivery system below the tank and gravity is not your best friend in this case. You will have to get your hands in the tank and undo hose clamps and the rubbery isolator which attaches the module to the tank floor. I've found the cheap red bicycle looking fuel transfer pump at Harbor Freight seams to work to empty the tank as far as Chinese tools go. I've ended up installing an upgraded, galvanized tank from a 1995 XJS coupe, which ditched the XJ40 design for the X300/305/350 design to eliminate the over engineered and deteriorating plastic and rubber parts in the fuel pump module causing all kinds of fuel delivery issues. I've uploaded a while back handful of pictures to a post related to the facelift fuel delivery issues. That flawed pump module design had multiple revisions over it's short lived live span in the XJS.

The advantage, in my personal experience, of a 95 and up fuel tank in your earlier facelift model is that I can now swap a fuel pump without disconnecting the lines below. The only modification I had to do was bashing out the inner RH fender well with a sledge hammer just far enough to clear the flange corners where the two halves of the tank have been joined. You will find out very fast how stout this cars were build trying to do this with a hammer of lesser heft. Of course, the tank has to be removed first. This facilitates to rotation of the the tank just far enough to access the EVAP flange. Although, you still may have to take the hockey buck trunk lift support off on the RH side. If your are one of the lucky ones who just may have all the right clearances and tolerances on a well build Jaguar on a Wednesday where those steps may not apply to you.

Final solution to owning or thinking to own a facelift model XJS with it's poorly designed fuel system (IMHO based on ownership experience) cobbled together with parts NLA, would be a galvanized 95 and up XJS which uses the X300/305/350 in tank fuel pump design or modify your tank to a pre facelift fuel set up with a surge tank and external readily accessible pump(s) and filters in the trunk(boot), or have a custom tank built. Having sorted out this issue, finding a fuel pressure regulator for a facelift models will be the next challenge since even Jaguar dealers and parts vendors on their websites, ebay and amazon don't seem to get it right when listing a fuel pressure regulator or the right rotor distributor cap for a Marelli ignition system. In addition, Jaguar/Ford refused to add a fuel pressure test port instead advocating for their fancy adapter test kit. Another heads up is about the fuel odor in the trunk. A lot of comments about finding the source of fuel odor coming from the boot. Assuming you have not overfilled the tank, your filler neck grommet and gas tank cap isn't leaking and all other connections within the trunk are tight, most likely the fuel sending unit is leaking due to either the sending unit has a fine hair line crack in the plastic flange or the rubber gasket is leaking. This is very hard to detect in a hot environment due to rapid evaporation, but it's dried out traces can be spotted easily when looking at below the sending unit at various angles and not under direct bright light. Use a flash light to detect the tracks similar to the wine legs left in your glass while jugging down that highly priced vintage Cabernet Sauvignon or Brunello de Montalcino. It also helps to keep the tank trim off when searching for those issues. My final advise, don't get suckered in buying an advertised highly priced low mileage, rare, late model run XJS V12 facelift or XJ12 with all of it's glitter and glory without having a financial plan B to keep them on the road.

 

Terrific advice!

 

when I removed my tank to turn it into a race car ( with the required fuel cell) I found help in removing the rear seat and using a pry bar to help move it out.
It’s an ugly job and bent some of the rear panel.
That I was able to put back straight pretty easy. Using a crescent wrench .

 

Thanks guys. Helped a lot.
So... disconnecting the fill tube and anything else the away, including the 2 side panels then by using the 'pull the right side out as far as possible' method, l got to be able to take the pump contraption out. Boy did that old fuel STINK.... Cleaned as much as l could by having my arm shoved into the tank YUK.
Now for the pump replacement and finding out where all the pipes go, replacing those that are missing, and put it all back together.
Stupid question.... The high pressure valve is just laying in the boot. Where does it go ???

 

What is a high pressure valve?