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No no no... No FBH in the interior. You want to remove the cowl (should be possible) and then try to flood the lock with graphite spray (cowl off will make it stay clean) and even see if you can get the lock out. Just in case you need to replace it. The lock is a standard Ford hex key lock. Should be without an immobilizer. So any lock you can get for an Escort MK IV, a Ford Transit MK III, a Ford Fiesta MK III/IV or Mondeo MK I will be a direct drop in. Handy thing about the 90 and on models. The 89 and older have the original Jaguar column and lock...
No no no... No FBH in the interior. You want to remove the cowl (should be possible) and then try to flood the lock with graphite spray (cowl off will make it stay clean) and even see if you can get the lock out. Just in case you need to replace it. The lock is a standard Ford hex key lock. Should be without an immobilizer. So any lock you can get for an Escort MK IV, a Ford Transit MK III, a Ford Fiesta MK III/IV or Mondeo MK I will be a direct drop in. Handy thing about the 90 and on models. The 89 and older have the original Jaguar column and lock...
Hi Daim
'Carmen' has a Key Immobilizer, see push button on top of the Key and another one on the Key Fob
The Button on the Actual Key is an immobilizer and there is another one on the Key Fob, I was turning the engine over but when I backed the Key off, it got stuck and wouldn't turn forwards or backwards or even pull out, because the lock cylinder won't spring out to release it
With the Ignition Key refusing to turn and unable to even remove it from the Ignition, I'm thinking that the Tumblers that are inside the Lock Barrel must have got jammed
And though I have tried everything that I have been able to think off, I cannot get that key out or even get it to turn
The Steering is Locked
The Key won't come out
The Gearbox won't Shift out of Park
And I cannot get the Cowling off the Ignition Lock because in order to do that, the Key would have to be out
I've also tried WD and Silicone Spray
How could something so simple turn into such a big Nightmare!
Yasssss! Fixed it! (with a little help from KOF and 'The Wizard') Just to recap the Tumblers in the Ignition Lock Stuck, which meant I couldn't remove the Key, or Turn it in any direction
'Greg' Suggested that I Jacked the Front Wheels off the Ground, which was quite a difficult job, as the Gearbox was stuck in Park, which meant I couldn't roll her back to give me enough space to get the jack underneath
Further Complicated by what I 'think' is the Sports Pack, as She has got Cross Braces fitted underneath, where I was then able to see for myself just how effective these Cross Braces are!
As when I Jacked her up on the Front Corner Jacking point, the whole side lifted off the ground at both front and rear, without any flexing whatsoever, which is why She Corners, as flat as a Pancake
Where once having done so I could easily turn the Wheel from Lock to Lock, the only problem being that the Key still wouldn't come out!
So over to 'Grant' aka 'The Wizard' who suggested I used some Silicone Spray in the Lock Barrel, which again was far from easy as the Key was right in the way!
Where having done the best I could I just kept working the Key round and round, when suddenly there was a 'Click' and the Tumblers of the Lock Barrel got back into position, where at last I was able to take the Key out!
Although I'll admit that I'm nervous about putting the Key back, just in case the Key gets stuck again
The Sports Pack Cross Braces underneath made the Car so rigid that when I jacked her from side front, the whole of the Car both front and rear, lifted without flexing
Evenly supported by a big block of Wood under the Front of the Car
Silicone Spray helped to release the stuck tumblers in the Lock Barrel
Well done OB! A good result, and now that you know how to fix it, I bet that the problem will never raise its head again!
The front x-brace that you reference is not part of the "sportspack" configuration. It's just something that was introduced for the convertibles to give some of the lost torsional rigidity to the bodyshell rather than to improve handling per se. In fact most convertibles (99% of the 6-cylinder models) don't have Sportspack suspension. Having said that the x-brace apparently gave a huge improvement in bodyshell rigidity, the dimensions and fixing points being fairly critical to the end result. A shame, therefore, that many cars are compromised through careless owners jacking under the x-brace and damaging it.
OB, congrats. Now that it is out, get some graphite spray in the lock. Not WD40, nor silicone spray! WD40 will not lubricate and silicone spray will gunk up. GrapHits doesn't stick and lubricates better than anything else out there. Flood the lock with it, put the key in and in out in out. Also, try to avoid parking with the steering lock really tightly locked (i.e. Just clicked).
I'm with Daim on this one, I would go one step further and flush the barrel with alcohol to remove the WD and silicone as much as possible or your lock WILL stick again. When clean use graphite powder, you can get it at the hardware store or locksmith.
I'm with Daim on this one, I would go one step further and flush the barrel with alcohol to remove the WD and silicone as much as possible or your lock WILL stick again. When clean use graphite powder, you can get it at the hardware store or locksmith.
Hi Warrjon
That's what I was just about to ask, as I was starting to wonder what the effect would be of adding graphite to the Silicone that's already in there (Silicone Soup) or (Graphite Gravy)
Could I flush it out with electrical contact cleaner or carb cleaner or do I need special stuff?
Carb cleaner is probably the best way to go, as brake cleaner isn't as aggressive. So a good blast with carb cleaner, make sure you cover parts of the interior! Don't want gunk on that! And then as Warren said...
Removing The Broken Rear Brake Nipple On 'The Ice Princess' (Continued)
Having tried everything else I could think of 'Short of dropping the Cage' I managed to get hold of a Set of (3) M5 Left Hand Taps, on which the only thing I could use was a very small Socket 3/16 (which turned out to be a Perfect Fit) to go on the Square bit of the Stem
And so what happened Next?
After drilling a half inch deep Hole, I then inserted the Number (1) Tap of the Set of (3) where to my surprise it started cutting a thread 'Where the only reason for my Surprise was that nothing had worked until now'
Where it only took a few turns of my new ratchet wrench to tighten it up 'which is just what I wanted!'
But then the 'Tap' got such a grip (good news!) that the Socket rounded off inside (bad news!)
So unless anyone has a better idea, what I am thinking of doing, is Welding a nut on the Top, to get a better grip with a bigger Socket
'Does that sound like a Plan?'
Set of (3) M5 'Left Hand' Taps (with a 3/16 Socket)
As the 3/16 Socket was slipping, I was thinking of Welding a Nut on the Top of the Stem so that I would be able to try and turn it with a bigger Socket
You are using a too longer lever. Have you got a small ratchet, with a 1/4" end? Normally about 10-15 cm long. You get more feel in that and can react better. Also, have you tried some proper easy outs? I mean the ones which are conical?
Yes, I have tried easy-outs but they didn't do the Job on this occasion but the left hand Taps did get a really good grip and I've also got a Smaller 1/4 Ratchet
Course they get a good grip, they are taps, they are there to cut a thread. But they won't remove the left over stubs, instead it'll just cut a thread into it...
Agreed the Tap will cut a Thread in the Broken Bleed Nipple but it will be a left hand Thread so when the Tap hits the bottom of the hole I drilled and can't go down any further because I didn't drill the hole all the way down
Then theoretically either the Tap is going to break or the Broken Bleed Nipple will start to unscrew
Preparing 'Carmen's' Fuel Tank For Refitting But What Sort Of Clips Do I Need?
The Fuel Tank fitted to 'Carmen' my 'Morocco Red 6 cyl XJS Celebration Convertible' is somewhat different to that fitted to a pre-facelift V12 as 'Carmen' has an 'In-Tank' Petrol Pump, which is in the process of being replaced
Where unlike the external Fuel Pump fitted to my V12 The Fuel Tank on 'Carmen' had to come out, which is one of those jobs from Hell and this will be the Second Time that I have had to do this since I have owned this Car
But even so its not one of my favorite jobs and more like a 'Trek through the mud' than a 'Walk in the Park'
Though this time its a bit more complicated, as when I took the Fuel Pipes off the Fuel Tank which in case I forget to mention it is another job from Hell, I had to flick the locking Clips off with a long Screwdriver
Where they went 'Ping!' and I never saw them again!
From what I can remember they looked very much like a Circlip, except the end was more open to clip over the metal pipes which stick out of the Fuel Tank
What you do is to push the Fuel Pipes with their 'Special Fittings' (what else!) into the metal pipes which stick out of the Fuel Tank, with a 'Special Tool' which I haven't got!
Then Lock these Special Fuel Pipe Fittings into the metal pipes sticking out of the Fuel Tank, with something that 'Looks' like a Circlip but with a more open end (a bit like a round horse shoe sort of thingy)
But does anyone know what its called or where I can get them?
Is it a very specialized Clip or one of those Standard Spring Clips that you can buy anywhere?
Here is a Pic of those Metal Pipes, which may give you a Clue
First you push the Special Fuel Pipe Fittings into these Tubes and then Lock them in place with some sort of Circlip
07-09-2018, 01:59 PM
