During the last 2 years, I have seen about each and every available XJS on this little island, but have never made the jump so far, mostly because of the sad technical state the cars were in.

Yesterday however, I had a look at a 1989 Convertible, which is by far perfect, but perhaps considerable as a project.
Car was 4 years in California, then shipped to Taiwan, so at least it saw no salt.



I was too well dressed to get under the car, but the outside body seems hard, and so I hope for the critical locations.
The car's inside seems to suffer from leakage, the front floor boards are wet, rusty and with a hole. I did not poke any further in the sills.

I will get back for a thoroughly inspection next week, checklist in hand, but was just wondering for some specific advice from you guys:

1. The engine ticks-over very quietly, but I did not run it to check on higher rpm's.
I was thinking to do a compression test.
How complicated and time consuming is it to reach all spark holes, I understand there is some accessories in the way for some?

2. On internal water leakage, what other places to check besides of the front floor pans?

3. Does anyone dare to throw some US Dollar figures for the following:
a. Full suspension bushing etc. replacement?
b. Full engine liquids exchange + service in materials?
c. Full coolant treatment (new hoses, radiator, water-pump, thermostat, etc)?
d. Carpet set?

My intention (if I should buy it) is to probably take care of the engine, then drive it for some months and compile the working list.
After that take it off the road, strip it where needed, and bring it back to its former, original glory over a max. 2 year period.

A respray will be the icing on the cake.

Thanks in advance,

Eric

 

It looks really nice so I don't understand all the rust and other problems. You are talking about the red Jag in pic ?

 

Haha ... I never thought I had to convince someone on the XJS forum thsat these cars really rust .

Seriously, yes, this car!
The smell inside is horrible, under the front carpets the sound deadening is in multiple pieces, and falling apart if you touch it, surely has been completely soaked.
Under that, the corrugated steel floor is damp, rusted, and at least in one place rotten through.
I did not poke in it, but I am sure I can make some decent holes there.
Probably nothing which can not been repaired, but a warning to check further, especially of the causes.

 

RUN, not walk, away from this car. You will spend thousands fixing it and even then it may be NBG. Keep looking!
Greg

 

I agree with Greg.

Leaks that have caused that damage are usually related to the car outside with the roof open.

That means someone does NOT care for that car, so who knows what other ills are hiding waiting for your bank account number.

OK, the a/c drains do clog up, and overflow into the front floors, and being in the tropics as it is there will be gallons of overflow, so I might be hasty on the para above, but $$$$$ whichever way you look at it.

 

And on top of all that, it's got a leaper and wheel arch trim.

 

I highly value remarks from both of you, and will not take them lightly.

However, the sad reality is that each and every car older then 10 years is neglected here.
On top of that, due to the import restrictions, there are very little classics left, and probably no more then 10 XJS's on the whole island which can be legally driven.

So yes, this car is surely neglected, but from my limited first check, not as bad as most of the others I have seen.
I will surely perform the 2nd and thorough check next week, just to be sure what is, and what is no right on this car before a final decision.

So for that, if any of you can give your thoughts on my questions, that should be highly helpful and appreciated.

Thanks again,

Eric

PS. I have recovered a rain flooded SLK for a friend before, and I am pretty sure this XJS was leakage followed by neglect, not an open roof.

 

What happened with the other XJS you were looking at, that 'drop dead gorgeous' Celebration Convertible.

That looked in superb condition!

Surely there must be some way to get that one through the emissions Test.

As for the Red one take Greg's advice and run away from it as fast as you can, as it could be much cheaper to import another one in good condition.

The red one will cost you a fortune!

 

3a, about $300 for the bushes, fitting would be a guess, as the lower pivot pin must come out to do that task, and they do seriously rust to the front cradle. The front cradle OUT is the safe/easiest way, and allows for much heavier hitting devices to be applied, along with mega heat from a gas axe. SOOOOO, $2000 for the front suspension, and that is a roughy.

3b/c, I would say about $200ish, for oil. steer fluid. trans fluid, coolant, filters etc, but cooling system surprises are many, so another $400 just for giggles, should cover hoses/stats/belts. Labour for water pump and hoses could be 8hours+, it is not a fun job.

3d, no idea, amybe $600ish.

Add fuel hoses to your list, maybe another $200ish, again few $$ for parts, but labour intensive.

 

I'm not so quick to say run......I have a 89 convertible. It may not be as bad as this one, but I had to have the windshield removed, and re-installed. The guy that di it seemed very experienced with the XJS. He said that the urethane seal often leaked, and needed be renewed. The only rust on the car is in the front floor drivers side, the radiator support. Common as well. It is a beautiful car. Maybe a little closer inspection? If the top has left down that much, the front seat, console, will show it.

 

Seriously. How is that helpful

 

ive just bought a non running car that when all the weldings done will need a full respray new hood interior and electrics sorting. that dosent look too bad to me

 

Well it's not helpful at all but seriously, how serious does it have to be. Lighten up.

 

Thank you Grant Francis, appreciated.

Exact, decision to run (very well possible), or pursue further I will only make AFTER next week detailed check.
My wife is actually surprised how rational I am on buying an XJS, after I have walked away on several already ...

I will try to determine if the rust is caused by the inside leakage or from the outside.
I presume if it is from the outside, I will walk, or run, away as advised.
If it is from the inside (leaking roof or window), it might be contained.
Welding her up is cheap here if I prepare everything, and I have time enough to do so professionally.

Thanks, and to be continued ...

 

As mentioned in the other thread, there is NO WAY one can import and legally drive an older car here in Taiwan.
I have checked intensively, but there is no way (any more) to pass the emission tests (remember, they must pass the PRESENT emission requirements, not the ones valid in the 1990's!).
Bribes or any other incentives did work, but not any more as well, dead end!

So that is why I am stuck with the very few left on the island, and about to give up on a XJS if this one is not recoverable.

 

I always say that the least expensive thing you do to a Jaguar is buy it. On my 89 convertible, it too, has a minor rust through on the drivers side. It may sound cheesy, but I cleaned it with a wire brush really well, used a rust inhibitor, primed it, and then put fiberglass over it. I then sprayed it with the rubberized coating inside, and under the car. It takes a good eye to even spot it.

 

My 1990 XJS is almost mint inside and out and it is all original except for rag top.




I have seen plenty in the US Texas and Oklahoma that are well taken care of.

 

Yeah, I like your statement, and I am very well aware of it.

Unfortunately, 2nd hand prices here are sky high compared to the US or Europe, so the start is on a 'wrong' footing already ....

Posting 2 more pictures of my visit, just to show the car is not all neglected.
Next week's job to find out what is hidden underneath ...

 

FYI, these are the places to look for rust:
Rear radius arm mounts on the body
Sills front and back
Exhaust tunnels each side of the boot
Front inner wings below the top shock mount down to the lower chassis rail
Front cross member under the rad (very hard to see this as it is covered by the undertray, but it can be seen from the rear if the car is on a ramp.
Wheel arches (sadly yours are covered, but the rear is the most expensive to fix if rusty), look at the inside where the arch is seamed into the body front and back of each arch. The front wings just bolt on, so these are easy to replace providing you can import the panels. If you cannot, they are very hard to make look right if the arch is shot.
Boot floor
Scuttle under the windscreen
If you can, remove the rear baffles of the front wheelarch and look there. This is a very difficult area to fix and structural if the A pillar panels are shot. It also enables you to see the front of the sill.
You already know about the floor! but look very carefully as if the sill and front panel are gone as well as the floor panel, this is also a tricky job and will need good fabrication skills.


Take a not too strong magnet, and run this over all the outside (painted) areas I have mentioned, if it does not stick you are looking at the dreaded FILLER !
Greg

 

Thank you very much Greg.
I got some on my list already, but never as clear as the above list.
Now let me burn some candles for better weather next week, and some positive news ...