The other day I went to get an inspection and failed the emissions...HC was at 125 (w/103 being standard)high speed, 147 low speed (w/107 being standard) ; CO low speed was 1.85 (w/ 0.59 being standard). So basically FAIL. The gentleman at the emissions place told me to go to Auto Zone and buy an additive called GUARANTEED TO PASS. Its an emissions test formula. So I did and after following instructions (fill w/ gas and add formula to tank) I drove it around a few days and went back today. SUCCESS! HC went from 125 to 26 / 147 to 42; CO went from 1.85 to 0.01. Passed with flying colors.

If you're having issues with passing emissions, try this stuff out first. They "Guarantee To Pass...or double your money back".


Second success was checking the hydraulic fluid level on my CONVERTIBLE top that just stopped working gradually. The side windows worked and I could hear the motor but the top...nada. The convertible motor (in the trunk, right hand side above the battery) has a little bolt on top of it that I just unscrewed and added Dexron transmission fluid to. It was bone dry. I then tried it and VOILA it started to work. It was really slow going and after a few tries I added more fluid, as it emptied fairly quick. I kept at it a few more times and I can see its starting to come back to life. I think there might be a few bubbles in the line that I hope will work themselves out. I don't think I need to bleed the line, do I?

Anyhoo, I'm just glad that I was able to do some investigating thanks to this forum and nip a couple problems in the bud.

 

Thanks for the tips - especially the roof juice -

What year is your xjs?

 

Hey Stonehenge...I have a 95 XJS


Debbie

 

Debbie, you have a leak since the fluid doesnt evaporate, watch it

 

@ Brutal...ok thanks. It hesitates quite a bit when putting it up. Going down, it's no problem. Are the lines fairly easy to trace, do you know? From the motor I'm not sure where the lines go to after that. Also, when I am putting it up, the motor seems to stop after a few seconds and I have to let off the ROOF button and re-press it to keep it going up. Any ideas?

 

It hesitates up because thats when the system puts out the most pressure. And a leak bleeds off the pressure so it goes slow or stops. There are only 2 rams to raise the top on you car along both sides of the rear seat. The back seat and side panels have to be removed to access. You can useally pull up the back seat to see the fluid underneath from a leak.
On lowering it only has to start the process, once it gats back alittle it just about falls open..

 

Brutal, I got the back seats off (very simple) and located a leak on the driver side piston upper bolt on the hydraulic cylinder. The fitting that goes into the cylinder was fairly loose so I tightened it and also the bolt that attaches the hose. It stop leaking at that spot, but now it bubbles up at the top of the rod piston (when putting the top down). No leaks at all when going up. Thoughts?

 

I would run it with the trim still out to purge air from the system and see if it stops. Many seals will seal fluid but not air. Dont ask me i dont design them. But as long as it stops at air and not fluid once purged youre fine. If not. Youll need a new ram as it 2 sided. 1 side gets fluid to lower and the other side gets fluid(pressure) to raise. If its leaking out of the top only when you put the top down, well then leave it down, afterall its not like it ever rains here anymore is it
OOPS I GUEES I SPOKE TOO SOON. IT RAINED LAST NIGHT AND THIS MORNING

 

i have the same slow top problem - i have to pull it up myself. i think the motor is accessible inside the storage compartment behind the front seats - i don't have rear seats.

 

... in my 1989 xjs

 

The motor is in the trunk on a 95. I know whats wrong with the top. One of the hydraulic cams is defective and it squirts the fluid out. I just put the motor in "MANUAL" and do it myself.

 

in the rear seat storage compartment on the 89.
just looked. reservoir opens with an allen wrench - and i'll need a long funnel to refill without stilling. i can see air gaps in the lines partially filled with redish fluid. on section of line has no redish fluid at all.
i guess i have to disassemble some stuff to see the cams...

i leave mine in electric and just help the top along manually. what is switching to manual add?

 

I know that red fluid all too well. Switching the motor/pump to "manual" stops the motor from running when I press the ROOF button to get the back quarter panel windows up and down. In "electric" mode I hear the cam squirting more red fluid out under my passenger back seat area, and then notice it dripping from near the tire to the ground.