No; caster on passenger front was measured at 1.0.

What do you mean by "upright"?

 

The upright is the vertical piece the spindle, hub, and brake caliper mount on. It pivots on the upper and lower ball joints.

 

Need a little help.

The margin between the brake hose and the upper control arm through-bolt is ever so slightly tighter on the passenger side than it was on the driver’s side.

See video below, any ideas? Thanks

 

The upright is the forging that carries the stub axle and links the two control arms (wishbones) via the ball joint top and bottom.

 

Thanks Greg - any advice regarding my bushing issue I posted about above?

 

Just take out this bolt and loosen the other side. The upright support bar will slide up / down and you can carry on. Be sure to note the spacer situations and put it back when done.

 

Thanks. Prior to your post I found another solution: you can take the washers out of the bushings themselves since they are just held in by a malleable rubber lip. That gives the bushing enough “give” to slide in between the brake line and the bolt. Then you just put the washers back in their place.

Another question though: a couple weeks ago the car started pulling to the right a little bit on various roads – I don’t think road crowning is the cause. I had an alignment done two months ago and the car drove straight afterwards. I adjusted the camber and caster and had them do another alignment a couple weeks ago (which gave the caster readouts that led to this thread). He reset the toe to be exactly the same on both sides. I just finished doing the upper ball joints and upper wishbone bushings on both sides. Still pulling to the right. I don’t think the ball joints and bushings made a difference at all since the old ones all looks pretty good anyway. Tires are inflated and no wheel bearing play. I’m running out of ideas.

 

Question: is there an easy way to determine if the LCA bushings are bad without taking them out?