The other day, my car, which always starts after two ECU pump primes on the key, did not want to. I floored it and it started and no further worries. I had a lovely trip with my Bro in Law round the vineyards and all perfect over 200 miles. I knew that it was not ignition as that system is in perfect nick with all new bits.
This was a gypsies kiss, I felt, so I blew 50 quid on a new one from Manners, and fitted it a couple of days ago. A VERY noticeable difference in required throttle opening for a given speed, and noticeably quicker hot starting, so I am sure the pressure was not being held perfectly. Now my car showed no signs of being short of fuel, is regularly belted about, and pulls like a runaway train; so I was seriously surprised that the FPR replacement made such a throttle-opening difference. I guess, with injection, the driver just subconsciously compensates for lower pressure by prodding the loud pedal a touch more, which gives a longer pulse and thus enough fuel.
The one I replaced was about or 6 years old, it was not a genuine Bosch - which weigh in at an idiotic 240 quid (350 $USD) - and I replaced it with another aftermarket part.
From this I take the lesson that FPRs are to be considered replacement items and that it is worth logging their age.

 

You convinced me. I will order mine today. Same issues, only worse...

 

let eat us know if it sorts it out please

 

Yes, far better.

 

I’ll also report back. Should arrive Monday…

 

It started fairly easy after 45 days of no start. At least a lot better than before changing the FPR. No driving until 15/3 due to cheap old timer insurance..
I used the EAC4864* from SNG Barrett NL

 

Looking at that utube I find it hard to believe that that is the factory instruments on pre facelift.

 

Why is that Rex? they look pre facelift to me!

 

Leo
Which ignition do you have on that HE engine? That start took far too long, in my experience. Does it start more quickly once the car has been used (for instance, will it start quicker tomorrow?

 

It will start a lot easier, when it has not been standing in-used for a long time. Tomorrow for example.
I’m not sure if it makes a difference that the fuel lines has just been taken apart. I primed 3 times. I intended to show the starting after 45 days and immediately after changing the FPR. I was also not too impressed, but it was worse before.

Lucas ignition, ignition amp moved out front

 

The car is from 77. I expect instruments to be original

 

I have not yet removed the inlet FPR. I do not expect it to have any impact, but I may be wrong.
Fuel pump has been replaced 3-4 years ago and is not original, but it’s from either Manners or Barratt, so I would expect it to be OK. Fuel filter, both inline and in surge tank is also new(ish), and my tank is surprisingly clean inside.

 

pic of my XJS fuel system, works great , i could not deal with the factory junk!

polyprop, fuel tank, large filter, replaceable element, oversize pump, all aluminum lines and fitting! adjustable FPR, i run constant 42 PSI, Honda injectors(quaulity).

FPR red object, adjust from top , gage connect at front custom rail,! simple and effective

 

Leo
A few suggestions:
Worth removing the inlet FPR, or at the very least renewing it.
What Grant recommends, and I have done this and it does make a difference, is to send the 12v positive to the coil through a relay. That is, you use the OEM white wire 12 v feed to the coil - which comes from the ignition switch - to trigger a relay, which feeds a solid 12v to the coil because it uses an input feed from the 12 v post on the bulkhead.
Next, I take it plugs, dizzy cap and rotor, and coils are all reasonably new, and ALL connectors are clean with no breaks in the wires under the insulation on the coil connector boots? Earth wire on amp well earthed, good connection from dizzy trigger wires to the amp?
Any of these can cause lazy starting. Finally, what is your battery like as the engine did not seem to turn over that fast on the starter?

 

Thanks Greg !

Good idea to use a relay to supply a proper 12V to the coil no matter what. Thanks to Grant as well.
Dizzy cap, rotor, ignition leads, spark plugs, ignition amp are all reasonably new. Changed since I bought the car in 2016. I have checked spark plug gap recently, spot on 0.65mm
I have earth connected to the amp at the original point at inlet through a wire together with the other wires.
Battery is new, from just before winter. It’s not a premium brand, but with good specs. It has been continuously hooked up to a maintenance charger since parking it for winter hibernation. Oil is 20w50, so starter motor may be struggling in 5C ?
I have added 2 additional earth straps from engine to body.
The reason I have focused on fuel supply is that the engine runs quite nice as soon as it actually starts, but I agree that for example low voltage at coil would cause same symptoms.
As next steps I will do a test start with direct 12V supply to coil and also remove the inlet FPR.

 

All good plans Leo, just eliminate each possible cause as you are doing and it will come right. That oil is definitely too thick and may well be why the starter motor is struggling. I use 5W-30 fully syn, and would never go thicker than 10W-30 or 40.
Now I am braced for the flack as this is THE most controversial subject! but in my understanding of the matter, by FAR the most important oil spec number is the W number (the winter viscosity number), and the lower the better. Practically all the wear happens in the first 5 mins of startup, and the faster the oil gets round the better, and the thinner the cold oil is the faster it gets round and the less "glueing the engine together" effect it has.
In my view, with petrol now at damn near $10 USD a gallon here in Europe, spending 20 dollars more on oil every year or two, to get the best available, is a no brainer.
And remember, no supermarket makes oil, so any supermarket own brand fully syn of the right spec will be a top quality oil from a major. So now you know what to do between now and 15 March!